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Mini Cooper 998 Screamer Nut And Bolt Rebuild


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#1216 olly33

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Posted 09 September 2016 - 08:53 PM

Only come across this thread looking at your seat mounts,as I have similar seat style,but mine are out of a rover tomcat still on there original subframes,and have been a nightmare to position properly due to width hitting the bin slightly,and as the back of seats tilt forward they had to be mounted opposite,as in drivers seat is now passenger,due to the tilt lever hitting the post.
Also the gear lever almost touches the seats in 2,4th and reverse,but its safe to drive.

Great build,and never done bodywork is impressive.

When you come to painting,say an old panel that has paint already on it,do you just use 600 grit and lay the basecoat without primer.
I understand on bare metal primer etc.

#1217 Petrol

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Posted 10 September 2016 - 07:35 PM

Yes, I use 800's wet and dry on the old paint and put the basecoat straight on that.

 

Thanks for the kind words. Minor update

 

Minispares X pin diff

 

1609_zpscm3s0ofm.jpg

 

Painted the timing chain cover

 

1610_zpsynbtsdbi.jpg

 

 

 



#1218 Junior Mini

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Posted 10 September 2016 - 09:21 PM

Hi Pete, brilliant job as always.
Just offering my advice, as an aircraft engineer we wouldn't solder the joint prior to crimping. Especially with finer stranded cables.
During use, we have found that were the tinning has stopped wetting the cable this causes a solid edge but with the finer cables having more flexibility the soft cables will eventually start to tear and then causing a break. The heatshrink is a great idea to stop moisture ingress into the joint but you may have introduced a weak point into your power cable.
Sorry, please don't think I'm picking holes, it's just what I know and I can see you want to do everything from a informed position.
Keep up the great work. It's gonna be brilliant 👍🏻

Edited by Junior Mini, 11 September 2016 - 07:31 AM.


#1219 Petrol

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Posted 11 September 2016 - 07:04 PM

Thanks for the heads up and absolutely no offense taken. I might have enough length on the cables to re make the ends off :thumbsup:



#1220 Petrol

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Posted 16 September 2016 - 08:25 PM

Rims n Rubber ;D

 

MiniRim1_zpss9su62ck.jpg

 

 

MiniRim2_zpsbtcm5oef.jpg

 

 

MiniRim3_zpsntudnh8q.jpg

 

 

 

 



#1221 Richie83

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Posted 16 September 2016 - 09:40 PM

Slick 😉

#1222 cal844

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Posted 05 December 2016 - 04:34 PM

Rims n Rubber ;D
 
MiniRim1_zpss9su62ck.jpg
 
 
MiniRim2_zpsbtcm5oef.jpg
 
 
MiniRim3_zpsntudnh8q.jpg
 
 
 
 


What formula is this from? Looks like a short oval wheel and tyre ;)

#1223 cal844

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Posted 05 December 2016 - 04:35 PM

Just read through this whole thread, wow!!

#1224 Petrol

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Posted 08 December 2016 - 03:47 PM

Thanks for the kind words

The rims n rubber are off this 1967 marcos race car

 

1611_zpsjrf9igcf.jpg

 

 

Pete



#1225 Bradchap

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Posted 11 January 2017 - 12:15 AM

Hi Pete, great build, love the detail, Im building a 998 using a 12g295 as well, Did you do the calculations for the CR yet, not sure if I'm doing it right and wondered what values you were using? Regards Bradley

#1226 Simon998

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Posted 12 January 2017 - 11:59 AM

Genuinely upset that I've finished this thread.

 

We're currently restoring a 1997 MPI which was in worst state than this when we bought it (Northern Irish coastal car, they love road salt up there too...). I've spent over £700 on panels alone, new front and rear subby and it's been at the welders for the last year (Another £1500!).

 

This thread has made me realise that once we get the car back from the welders, the job has realistically only just started! I wish I had read this thread before hand and I would have done a lot of things differently.

 

Fantastic work and thank you for sharing it with us in so much detail. It will be invaluable once I come to putting my car back together.



#1227 Joe Nation

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Posted 13 January 2017 - 11:02 PM

Phew, started reading this thread three days ago and I'm only halfway through. I love how the build has changed from straight-up Sportspack resto to something utterly different. I want to look back a few pages and see how it's getting on but those 3 most recent pics with the Hoosiers made me hesitate, I don't want to ruin the story!

 

Pete, I wont even bother to compliment you on the outstanding work so far (I'm up to the first full coat of gloss blue on the bare shell), but hats off to you for your excellent write-up and photos. I think I've learned more reading this than several years of half a dozen well known magazines. And full respect for always being happy to answer peoples questions and repeat yourself umpteen times (how does zinc primer work again? :) ). Almost every post brings a new question to my mind, often answered later on by you or someone else. I've often wondered what the best plan is to prevent rust coming back once you've bothered to get rid of it all, and now I know.



#1228 Petrol

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Posted 15 January 2017 - 10:06 PM

Hi Pete, great build, love the detail, Im building a 998 using a 12g295 as well, Did you do the calculations for the CR yet, not sure if I'm doing it right and wondered what values you were using? Regards Bradley

 

I haven't worked out how much needs to come off the head yet but it's quite a bit. I'm not going to go mad with the CR either as you run the risk of going through to the oil way in the head.

 

 

 

Genuinely upset that I've finished this thread.

 

We're currently restoring a 1997 MPI which was in worst state than this when we bought it (Northern Irish coastal car, they love road salt up there too...). I've spent over £700 on panels alone, new front and rear subby and it's been at the welders for the last year (Another £1500!).

 

This thread has made me realise that once we get the car back from the welders, the job has realistically only just started! I wish I had read this thread before hand and I would have done a lot of things differently.

 

Fantastic work and thank you for sharing it with us in so much detail. It will be invaluable once I come to putting my car back together.

 

Only too happy to post up what I know. The main problem with shell restoration is welding, as soon as you weld you have rust. With the mini having so many seams, it’s a right PITA

 

Phew, started reading this thread three days ago and I'm only halfway through. I love how the build has changed from straight-up Sportspack resto to something utterly different. I want to look back a few pages and see how it's getting on but those 3 most recent pics with the Hoosiers made me hesitate, I don't want to ruin the story!

 

Pete, I wont even bother to compliment you on the outstanding work so far (I'm up to the first full coat of gloss blue on the bare shell), but hats off to you for your excellent write-up and photos. I think I've learned more reading this than several years of half a dozen well known magazines. And full respect for always being happy to answer peoples questions and repeat yourself umpteen times (how does zinc primer work again? :) ). Almost every post brings a new question to my mind, often answered later on by you or someone else. I've often wondered what the best plan is to prevent rust coming back once you've bothered to get rid of it all, and now I know.

 

The car is being built for road use. I’m not fitting a roll cage to keep the weight down and I want it to look like a Mini with a few bolt on bits.
Underneath though it will be a bit of a do-er and I will probably thrash it up a hill or two :proud:
 

Thanks for the kind words everyone.

 

 



#1229 59 Speed

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Posted 17 January 2017 - 08:31 PM

Rims n Rubber ;D
 
MiniRim1_zpss9su62ck.jpg
 
 
MiniRim2_zpsbtcm5oef.jpg
 
 
MiniRim3_zpsntudnh8q.jpg


What size wheels are these - 6x10 or 7x10?

I bought a set of alloys years ago off eBay that had two 6x10's and two 7x10's and the 7x10's look identical to yours.

Nice build by the way!

#1230 clubman91

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Posted 02 March 2017 - 11:20 AM

Finally read this whole thread, great work you have done its fantastic. Given me plenty of ideas thanks for sharing.
Any updates?
Cheers,
Mark.




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