1842 replies to this topic

[Squares]

Great build, I just caught up with almost all of it. :)

 

I work at the same company as Mika, turns out its a fairly small world as I also used to be on SXOC with a 13 and 14a back in the day and remember your crazy 14 rebuild.

Looking forward to more updates, loving the little engine. :)

[Petrol]

Thanks for your kind words and your absolutely right, it's a small world. Still got the crazy S14 though it's not turned a wheel since it was restored. This Mini will be a different story though - expect Mika to rock up at work in it when it's finished

[Domeo_Jones]

Ohh by-ecc 'cocker,
loving that mini&boat photo.

Good idea on the boot aswell.

actually lol'd... only at 2013... brilliant read so far .

[Petrol]

That was soooooo funny!

 

I'm going to get the head skimmed and would appreciate some opinions on what CR to run. I don't mind running it on super but don't want the hassle of using octane booster. The 12G295 big valve head has had the chambers cut out and is going to need quite a bit off, I'm also using flat top pistons. I don't want to go through to the oil gallery by taking too much off the head so how high can I go with the CR?

 

As for the rest of it.... lightened flywheel, fast road / rally cam

 

Thanks for any advice

 

Pete

[Petrol]

Bought this gear knob

 

 

Pete

[Domeo_Jones]

Ooh by eck cocker....lol i like that..

[Jared Mk3]

Nice knob.

[James_eaton_thewholething]

I do love a good knob

[Ben_O]

I do love a good knob

[Petrol]

It's metal and there's nowt worse than a cold knob on a winters morning

 

Flatted the bonnet with 2000 grit wet and dry used wet. I always add a bit of car shampoo to help prevent the wet and dry grabbing

 

 

The idea is to get all the imperfections and orange peel out. It's best not to skimp at this stage as any imperfections will show when it's buffed. To do this I use a rotary polisher and Farecla G6 

 

 

The pad on the rotary has seen better days but after polishing 1/2 the bonnet

 

 

It's important to keep the polisher moving as introducing too much heat will discolour the clear coat. It's also important to keep away from edges as it's easy to go through. it's not 100% there yet but you get the idea.

 

 

Pete

 

[James_eaton_thewholething]

I do love a good knob

Don't tell the misses she might get the wrong idea 😐

[James_eaton_thewholething]

Pete. Love the bonnet. Really love the colour of this too. Hope mine looks half a good as this

Edited by James_eaton_thewholething, 15 July 2016 - 09:15 PM.

[Petrol]

Pete. Love the bonnet. Really love the colour of this too. Hope mine looks half a good as this

 

It just takes a bit of time to get things right. Spending also helps -

 

Stainless heat shield for the carbs

 

 

Ive got some old Smiths gauges for the dash / console which are black. Thought the magnolia clocks were a mismatch so I've bought these

 

 

 

I also need a back seat from a late shell with stiffeners on the parcel shelf. Condition of the cover doesn't matter as it will be re trimmed. If anyone has one for sale, let me know.

 

Thanks,

Pete

[Petrol]

Bought some 16mm cable to go from the battery to the starter (Can't find the original cable - doh)

 

 

 

Being welding cable, it's a bit more flexible so I'm glad I drilled plenty of holes in the floor for the clips

 

 

 

The cable needs pulling before the clips are tightened. P clips were fitted the same as the brake pipes with plastic washer behind to stop moisture getting in.

 

Should have done this on the spit when I fitted the brake pipe. It was a bit of a PITA!

 

Pete

 

[Petrol]

Fine stranded cable is notorious for fraying. Best way to prevent this is to partially strip back the insulation and twist it

 

 

Then tin it with solder

 

 

 

Lug soldered on for battery earth

 

 

 

Shrink wrap tidies things up

 

 

 

Pete