Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

My Damaged 1990 Brg Mini Mayfair Project


  • Please log in to reply
86 replies to this topic

#31 zeemax89

zeemax89

    Mini Mad

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 120 posts
  • Location: reading

Posted 29 May 2015 - 05:39 PM

And cant afford one.  Soon though



#32 zeemax89

zeemax89

    Mini Mad

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 120 posts
  • Location: reading

Posted 22 June 2015 - 03:29 PM

I did the toe panel a few weeks ago.  Wow that took some spot weld drilling.  

 

Attached File  20150411_171005.jpg   44.58K   25 downloads

 

Here it is eventually removed.

 

Attached File  mini toe panel removed.jpg   41.41K   23 downloads

 

Here are the tunel spot weld locations

 

Attached File  tunel toe panel spot weld locations.jpg   41.16K   17 downloads

 

 

Then offered up the replacement part.

 

Attached File  Image00004.jpg   44.95K   22 downloads

 

then I set about plug welding it in permanently.

 

Attached File  Toe panel location.jpg   47.47K   27 downloads

 

Considering the thickness of the panel steel and the fact the floor panels are about half the thickness, if that.  I was very happy with the penetration of the welds

 

Attached File  Image00002.jpg   58.89K   24 downloads

Attached File  Mini tunel plug welding.jpg   42.12K   16 downloads

 

 

 

 



#33 zeemax89

zeemax89

    Mini Mad

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 120 posts
  • Location: reading

Posted 22 June 2015 - 03:33 PM

Since the above repairs, I have tidied up the drivers door step, repaired the remaining floor bits and pieces.  Now the body is back on it's side so I can attack the battery box and surrounding floor metalwork.

 

Once this is completed I should be ont the new A-panel and front wings that are sat there waiting.  



#34 sonikk4

sonikk4

    Twisted Paint Polisher!!!

  • Admin
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,442 posts
  • Name: Neil
  • Location: Stone Cross
  • Local Club: EDMC

Posted 22 June 2015 - 03:36 PM

Plug welding looks good. I never go any smaller than 3/16th for the plug weld holes. Ideally 1/4" theres no way they will ever fail. Not too impressed with the 5/32 hole punches out there specifically for plug welding. For me bigger is better and in this case stronger.



#35 zeemax89

zeemax89

    Mini Mad

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 120 posts
  • Location: reading

Posted 22 June 2015 - 07:51 PM

Plug welding looks good. I never go any smaller than 3/16th for the plug weld holes. Ideally 1/4" theres no way they will ever fail. Not too impressed with the 5/32 hole punches out there specifically for plug welding. For me bigger is better and in this case stronger.

I generally  use an 8mm bit for the plug welds



#36 sonikk4

sonikk4

    Twisted Paint Polisher!!!

  • Admin
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,442 posts
  • Name: Neil
  • Location: Stone Cross
  • Local Club: EDMC

Posted 22 June 2015 - 08:06 PM

 

Plug welding looks good. I never go any smaller than 3/16th for the plug weld holes. Ideally 1/4" theres no way they will ever fail. Not too impressed with the 5/32 hole punches out there specifically for plug welding. For me bigger is better and in this case stronger.

I generally  use an 8mm bit for the plug welds

 

 

Mmm that is a tad large to say the least but even stronger.



#37 zeemax89

zeemax89

    Mini Mad

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 120 posts
  • Location: reading

Posted 22 June 2015 - 09:46 PM

 

 

Plug welding looks good. I never go any smaller than 3/16th for the plug weld holes. Ideally 1/4" theres no way they will ever fail. Not too impressed with the 5/32 hole punches out there specifically for plug welding. For me bigger is better and in this case stronger.

I generally  use an 8mm bit for the plug welds

 

 

Mmm that is a tad large to say the least but even stronger.

 

Strength is what counts



#38 69k1100

69k1100

    Speeding Along Now

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 374 posts
  • Location: Adelaide

Posted 23 June 2015 - 03:38 AM

I plug weld 8mm, due to the spot weld drill being 8mm. Less faffing about when you can cut the whole weld out in one hit,

#39 sonikk4

sonikk4

    Twisted Paint Polisher!!!

  • Admin
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,442 posts
  • Name: Neil
  • Location: Stone Cross
  • Local Club: EDMC

Posted 23 June 2015 - 07:53 AM

I tried spot weld drills and either I bought toffee ones or just had a bad batch and did not get along with them. I always used 1/4" Cobalt drills to remove spot welds with great success.

#40 zeemax89

zeemax89

    Mini Mad

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 120 posts
  • Location: reading

Posted 23 June 2015 - 02:42 PM

I plug weld 8mm, due to the spot weld drill being 8mm. Less faffing about when you can cut the whole weld out in one hit,

Same here 69k1100



#41 Ben_O

Ben_O

    Mill Road Garage

  • Paint Doctor
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,534 posts
  • Location: Isle of Wight

Posted 25 June 2015 - 12:32 AM

I tried spot weld drills and either I bought toffee ones or just had a bad batch and did not get along with them. I always used 1/4" Cobalt drills to remove spot welds with great success.

Wurth Zebra spot weld drills are excellent.

 

Available in 6mm and 8mm and last ages.

 

I have about 6 8mm ones that were in my toolbox when i left my panel beating job in 09and they still cut well. I just give them a light re-face with a file occasionally



#42 zeemax89

zeemax89

    Mini Mad

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 120 posts
  • Location: reading

Posted 25 June 2015 - 01:48 PM

Yep, I think mine are jobber 8mm.  I have been through a few on this but I could re face then in the grinder if i run out.

 

What's the thinking on rivnuts?  I have bought some steel M4 ones with a splined outed to help them bite in.  I was planning to ad some locktite adhesive to them before fitting.  However I have read a few people saying they work loose and the tools for fitting can easily fail especially with the harder steel ones.  My thinking was the correct loctite will stop them spinning, and using steel to prevent dissimilar metal corrosion forming. 



#43 zeemax89

zeemax89

    Mini Mad

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 120 posts
  • Location: reading

Posted 29 June 2015 - 09:11 AM

Made a start on the boot floor.  When I say made a start on the boot floor.  What I mean is I started replacing the surrounding panels that the boot floor attaches to.  Ie Wheel arch edges, rear quarter, rear boot hinge panel.  I was wanting to get the OS boot repair section in but unfortunately ran out of gas at the final hurdle.

Anyway her are a few pictures of stuff that you will all have seen hundreds of times before

 

 

First up was a repair section in the rear quater.  Unfortunately |I had some heat distortion.  I think it will cover quite easily with some careful hammer work and a lick of filler.

 

Attached File  Image00009.jpg   45.17K   16 downloads

 

Then I spent hours cutting the old repairs out of the rear of the wheel arch.  Where the rear subframe mount joins the arch.  to be honest, for a while I considered leaving the current patch in place.  In the end, thankfully a sense of pride kicked in and I cut it all out.  good job to as the was about 4 layers there and the outer, most recent was not really joined to the frame mound.

 

Attached File  Image00001.jpg   28.01K   13 downloads

 

quick CAD mockup that lead to this

 

Attached File  Image00001.jpg   39.36K   14 downloads

 

Attached File  Image00002.jpg   56.1K   11 downloads

 

then the last bit I managed to do was a small part of the hinge panel.  It was going well until I ran out of gas.  It took me a while to realise, hence the bunt through, scrappy edge.

 

Attached File  Image00010.jpg   20.57K   7 downloads

 

Lastly I trial fitted the boot repair panel.  It took a bit of work, buy in a few minutes I had it fitting nice and tight along the arch seam and looking like it wants welding

 

Attached File  Image00011.jpg   39.6K   15 downloads


Edited by zeemax89, 29 June 2015 - 09:28 AM.


#44 zeemax89

zeemax89

    Mini Mad

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 120 posts
  • Location: reading

Posted 03 July 2015 - 10:33 AM

Unfortunately my new Draper Mig welder has been weeping gas from the torch, so I have been getting through large hobbyweld cylinders.   Thankfully I was able to borrow one from a good mate.  Also glad to see it is more adjustable with regards to current so was much nicer to use on the floor.

 

Here is the repair panel welded in.  I also rebuilt the surrounding edges for the battery box.  Hope to get off work soon and go finish of the floor and make a start on the vallance

 

Attached File  Mini battery box suround.jpg   43.08K   8 downloads

 

 

I am now starting to think about stonechip and floor coatings.  My local supplier stocks the UPOL type.  

Does anyone have any experience or advice with this or similar products?

 

Have a good and HOT HOT weekend all



#45 zeemax89

zeemax89

    Mini Mad

  • Noobies
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 120 posts
  • Location: reading

Posted 05 July 2015 - 08:35 PM

Loving the new mig welder.  Much more variable with regards to settings

 

Attached File  Mini Stitch welding.jpg   35.25K   10 downloads

 

Attached File  Mini rear valance.jpg   31.45K   9 downloads

 

Attached File  Mini Rear valance closing panel.jpg   35.33K   12 downloads

 

Attached File  Boot floor refurb.jpg   25.05K   4 downloads

 

Attached File  Mini Battery box floor.jpg   42.21K   7 downloads

 

Attached File  Mini Battery box welding.jpg   24.83K   5 downloads

 

Now full floor clean before I fit the M4 riv-nuts to replace brake and fuel line welded clamps.  I will be adding loctite stud lock as i fit them.  Should be a permanent fitting and add a water repellent barrier which will follow with a sealant on the seam and then probably an over-paint-able stone chip in the next week

 

Attached File  Car underseal removal.jpg   51.55K   25 downloads

 

 

 

Attached Files


Edited by zeemax89, 05 July 2015 - 08:44 PM.





0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users

Mini Spares