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#241 MR J

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Posted 26 April 2017 - 09:23 PM

Talking of the M03's, Would anyone happen to have a set (or a pair) of M03 body posts? To save me having to buy a complete pack with all the suspension arm parts and stuff. As annoyingly mine have been cut one hole too short.

 

Also having just had a look at the manuals online, the rears for the M05 are the same as the M03's, but the fronts aren't.

I have just had to buy a two complete sprues because of the same reason.

 

There is a guy on Shapeways who does 3d printed ones but the shipping from US makes them more expensive than buying the complete sprues over here.



#242 MR J

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Posted 26 April 2017 - 09:42 PM

A few pics from last Sundays first heat of 2017 Iconic Cup at Stafford Model Car Club.

 

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Even Managed to pick up a couple of trophies! :D



#243 1984mini25

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Posted 26 April 2017 - 09:47 PM

 

Talking of the M03's, Would anyone happen to have a set (or a pair) of M03 body posts? To save me having to buy a complete pack with all the suspension arm parts and stuff. As annoyingly mine have been cut one hole too short.

 

Also having just had a look at the manuals online, the rears for the M05 are the same as the M03's, but the fronts aren't.

I have just had to buy a two complete sprues because of the same reason.

 

There is a guy on Shapeways who does 3d printed ones but the shipping from US makes them more expensive than buying the complete sprues over here.

 

 

Well I've found, although the rears on the M05's are slightly different that will fit. But A set of just the m05 body post is £7, of with only the rears are of any use on the M03. Witch isn't much of a saving considering the correct M03 ones on the suspension parts tree is around £14

 

You would assume like the other Tamiya's that the body mounts would be available separately. But then unlike some of the others I've had in the past Tamiya body posts tend to be slightly flexible, rather than rigid and snap.  



#244 1984mini25

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Posted 25 May 2017 - 09:04 PM

A nice way to spend the morning on a nice day like today.

 

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#245 1984mini25

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Posted 27 May 2017 - 04:59 PM

One issue I did have with the boat, that i cant quite find the answer to is and I'm a total noob when it comes to boats. Its there an ideal set up for the position of the rudder?

 

As what i was finding is, the boat would start to turn (for when doing a U turn) for the first half just fine and then gradually get so wide that it almost needed the full width of the river to turn round. And the only way round it was to do a half turn, and let it float/drift in to the right position and set off again. Witch at some points did cause a few harry moments with the possibly of it getting stuck.

 

I don't know if it was because the rudder is mounted too close to the rear between the two propellers, and needs to be moved further back?

 

Or is there a cheap way to use the twin motors for steering like it was stock but with the crap Chinese electrics, but with the current single esc and car/stick transmitter?


Edited by 1984mini25, 27 May 2017 - 05:02 PM.


#246 WillCarter

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Posted 05 November 2017 - 11:21 AM

Bought a baja 5b a while ago, it's so much fun but I can't believe how much parts for it are!



#247 Anthony30

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Posted 05 November 2017 - 01:21 PM

Bought a baja 5b a while ago, it's so much fun but I can't believe how much parts for it are!

Baja 5b has been a popular 1/5th for over 10 years. Try Facebook forums/Ebay for parts ect.  :highfive:



#248 WillCarter

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Posted 05 November 2017 - 01:48 PM

Bought a baja 5b a while ago, it's so much fun but I can't believe how much parts for it are!

Baja 5b has been a popular 1/5th for over 10 years. Try Facebook forums/Ebay for parts ect.  :highfive:

Good idea, will do!

#249 1984mini25

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Posted 05 November 2017 - 10:08 PM

I’d forgotten about his topic. A few months back I got round to buying another pair of rudders from china via eBay, and working out a way of attaching them and getting them to work off the one servo. I’ll post up pics at a later date. But from the last time I had it down the river it was so much easier to control, with it almost able to turn within its own length at full throttle. So I had fun trying to do full throttle tight double figure of 8’s and slaloms for 20mins till the battery was flat. Let it cool for 5 mins, as the motors were warm but not hot. Set off with the second stick pack and about 3 minutes in, turned and full throttled away from the bank and it just died. All power, throttle and steering gone, so reluctantly had to wade in after it (Was also half a foot deeper than I’d normally run it) before it floated away. But with everything I’ve tried since, all I get is a single red light on the esc and that its. 



#250 WillCarter

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Posted 06 November 2017 - 08:33 AM

Was it anything to do with the actual connection between the controller and the boat? With mine there’s a button you press that recomnects and also a safety feature that kills the motor when it’s out of range.

I’m quite new to r/c stuff so I’m really just guessing unfortunately but I’d bet it would be worth a try either looking for a dedicated forum or phoning up the company. The boat on the river looked great!

#251 1984mini25

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Posted 06 November 2017 - 02:21 PM

All I get is when you plug the battery in and flick the switch on the esc (I'm using proper rc car stuff) is a single red light and not even a twitch from the steering servo. What I should get is a red and green flashing light/s and then a solid green to say the esc has calibrated itself and is good to go. But I can't seam to find what a single read light means on an mtronics ecs. The esc is also the only electrical component that's fully waterproof, but I really don't get that much water inside the boat anyway. I did try changing the crystals, with no change.



#252 1984mini25

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Posted 06 November 2017 - 04:05 PM

Here's pics of the electrics set up and the twin rudders.

 

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#253 WillCarter

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Posted 06 November 2017 - 05:09 PM

Ohh, mine’s the same. A single red is no connection to the controller, flashing means it’s connecting (or trying to at least) and solid means that it’s connected. A single red for me can also mean that the batteries aren’t sufficiently charged, either for the controller or the r/c itself.

#254 blueovalcraig

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Posted 06 November 2017 - 10:59 PM

Here's my Savage X.

 

Attached File  HPI Savage.jpg   83.07K   2 downloads


Edited by Deathrow, 08 November 2017 - 10:25 AM.
Not the right section.


#255 WillCarter

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Posted 06 November 2017 - 11:05 PM

Here's my Savage X.
 
attachicon.gifHPI Savage.jpg


There’s a page on fb dedicated to hpi stuff, you’ll probably be able to sell it there or ebay’s always good






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