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Bmw 16V K1100 1380 Engine


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#16 minisilverbullet

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Posted 26 February 2016 - 09:03 PM

 

I like it!  What pistons are you leaning towards Craig?

The piston choice has my head spinning a little. 

 

Options

 

- MED - Omega die cast 73.5mm with a 7cc dish (330 pounds) - those have an offset dish, I not sure is this works with the 16v head?`

- minispares 3.5mm POWERMAX PISTON 9cc dish (300 ish pounds)

- minisport Powermax Pistons - 73.5mm - 7cc dish (263 pounds)

- KalverST does a set of 73mm (1360) with a 10cc dish and and set of +60 with 6.5cc dish, I have enquired to see whether he can get the 73mm pistons with a 6.5cc dish. 

 

As always open to suggestions. 

 

 

So I have gone for the Omega pistons 7cc dish (73.5mm)

 

have also agreed with SC to build the short block. Nothing fancy:

Standard rods with resized big ends 

ARP conrod bolts

Regrind and balance of a standard crank 

Jackshaft

And the omega pistons



#17 minisilverbullet

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Posted 04 March 2016 - 12:46 PM

Gearbox ordered from Guessworks:

 

Helical box

cross pin diff

3.44 final drive (3.2 wasn't an option since that is what is currently have and i needed a different FD to help with the registration of  the car being modified)

 

I think in the end it was a good choice of final drive. It is what Specialist components recommend for my engine. I don't do long journeys on the motorway. 

 

And of course there are speed limits but not limits on how fast you accelerate to that limit.  :shy:

 

I decided an against straight cut drops; I wanted to be able to hear the engine. But also a mini has enough bangs, creaks, squeaks and rattles without adding a whine. 



#18 Richie83

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Posted 04 March 2016 - 04:24 PM

I've got the exact same setup. It's even fine on the motorway to be fair.

#19 minisilverbullet

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Posted 04 March 2016 - 07:28 PM

I've got the exact same setup. It's even fine on the motorway to be fair.

Good to hear! I was worried that the 3.44 was too much of a compromise! 



#20 Richie83

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Posted 04 March 2016 - 08:36 PM

I'm not saying it's ideal but you won't be revving the nuts off it at cruising speed. It will be very noisy though :-)

#21 minisilverbullet

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Posted 21 March 2016 - 04:30 PM

Email from SC today: 

 

 

 

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not long now! 



#22 Black.Ghost

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Posted 25 March 2016 - 08:58 PM

Loving this. I really like this Mini and it'll be good to follow the progress on this. Videos once installed and running are a must.

 

Good luck with it all. 



#23 minisilverbullet

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Posted 25 March 2016 - 11:07 PM

I have tentative plans to remove the old block this weekend. and clean up the engine bay. 

 

I did a compression test of the SPi block 198 psi across each cylinder, should help when I come to sell it on!



#24 Alex_B

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Posted 25 March 2016 - 11:09 PM

I have tentative plans to remove the old block this weekend. and clean up the engine bay. 

 

I did a compression test of the SPi block 198 psi across each cylinder, should help when I come to sell it on!

If you can get a leak down test done as well, that gives a better idea of engine health and could well help sell it!


Will be following this thread as I am getting together a 16v twin kam turbo at the moment, currently saving up to get the kit. 



#25 minisilverbullet

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Posted 26 March 2016 - 07:18 PM

Made a start today, 

 

Cleaned out the garage, car in the air.  

52BCA8ED-7E5B-46A7-8A64-56CBDD5C412F_zps

 

Fuel tank removed. I will reuse this spi tank but with a mpi pump. 

 

C3B71DA6-1C9E-4250-9FE1-2089E6CE0082_zps

 

Removed the sump guard, bonnet and towbar. I intended to sell the tow bar but i now 8 holes in the boot floor, I cannot weld and don't have welder. maybe i just refit the tow bar. 

 

Lets call this a gentle start. 



#26 minisilverbullet

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Posted 29 March 2016 - 08:07 PM

Got stuck in again tonight! the radiator bottom hose caused me a bit of hassle. the jubilee clip spun away from me, so i couldn't get a socket on it. 

 

Fairly enjoying myself though. just the Spi wiring loom to remove and then it is time to get the engine out. 

 

 

One thing I wonder about is where will I take a vacuum for the brake servo on my new engine? 



#27 fuzzy-hair-man

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Posted 30 March 2016 - 12:42 AM

 
One thing I wonder about is where will I take a vacuum for the brake servo on my new engine? 

I think you'd have to tap into each of the inlet runner's between the throttle butterfly and the head join them all together to the brake booster. If you take 1 or 2 those cylinders could run lean stall etc this is assuming you are using ITBs.

#28 minisilverbullet

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Posted 31 March 2016 - 11:51 AM

I guess it will be possible to use the standard vacuum line from the bike for the brake servo. 

Screen%20Shot%202016-03-31%20at%2013.44.



#29 minisilverbullet

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Posted 02 April 2016 - 06:01 PM

Probably not a big deal for the seasoned tinkerers and mechanics here; but today I am extremely pleased with myself. '

 

12919079_10155361013381959_1405394619_n_



#30 FlyingScot

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Posted 02 April 2016 - 06:44 PM

Ya posing bass :lol:




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