6 replies to this topic

[GT Jimmy]

Just replacing my inner sills and wondering if non gen jacking points are any good. Don't want to spend loads on something that can't be seen and will never be used to lift the car. Just fitting them for added strength in the sill section.

Thanks

[jamesquintin]

I'm fitting genuine ones to mine as I'm going for originality and to be 100% sure its strong incase I ever have to jack the car. Although I've had the car 14 years, I don't think i've ever jacked it up using the jacking point...

[sonikk4]

I use the M Machine ones and never had an issue with them being unable to jack the car on.

[NuFab]

I made my own... folded up some 1mm steel and added 2mm box section for the actual jack hole. That box section is then seam welded to the sill hole itself. Should be pretty strong, but then I'd only use it in an emergency at the roadside anyway.

[GT Jimmy]

I never really liked the look of the mini jack so never used one

 

I think I'll try M Machine.

 

Thanks for the replies

[tiger99]

The jacking point, situated where it is and tying together the central crossmember and inner and outer sills, makes a significant contribution to the torsional stiffness of the shell. So if you want the best possible handling and longest shell life for a given set of mechanical parts, always fit the jacking points. There is also some advantage in retaining the shell slinging brackets, for much the same reason, only the effect is less, but the pads under the floor are pointless and serve as a temptation for inexperienced tyre fitters etc to use as jacking points and bend the floor. You could close the hole in the outer sill but still have an internal stiffner, plug welded to the outer sill, to keep the stiffness if you really don't want a jacking point for aesthetic reasons or to try to reduce corrosion.

 

I wonder about fitting jacking points fore and aft instead of the slinging brackets, so you could jack one wheel up instead of both? Might need a bit of work...

 

Some people on here are nervous about using the jacking points. If your shell is correctly maintained and restored, they are fully adequate. If your shell is a heap of rust, beware...

[NuFab]

Definitely agree with the above... the jacking point panel ties the crossmember into the sill box sections and will add a lot of strength.

From what I remember though, they are expensive for something you don't see, so I made mine, as below.

 IMG_0068.JPG   79.64K   6 downloads
 IMG_0100.JPG   38.41K   8 downloads


When the sill went on, I swam welded the tube to the opening in the sill, to stop water ingress and to add strength.

Edited by NuFab, 20 December 2016 - 01:52 PM.