18 replies to this topic

[Cater_Racer]

I've discovered that my rear radius arm (nearside) has not been swinging on the bearings which have seized by a failure of the internal grease transfer mechanism. This resulted in the radius arm swinging the shaft in the sub-frame. This in turn has worn the shaft and the holes in the sub-frame.  The outer hole is really no problem as the small bracket is detachable and replaced easily. The inner hole is now quite elongated is this a sub-frame out job or can I get away with some sort of repair patch?  What's the consensus?

 

 

 

[nicklouse]

I would replace the subframe.

[Shooter63]

Weld a big penny type washer to the subframe in the right Place?

Shooter

[Cater_Racer]

Weld a big penny type washer to the subframe in the right Place?

Shooter

Yeah that's kinda what I was thinking.

[Cater_Racer]

Here's what it looks like

Attached Files

•  mini-sub-frame.JPG   49.96K   66 downloads

[minidaves]

That's been broken for a long while to do that damage, personally I would replace the subframe

[Cater_Racer]

Oh, looks like an expensive trip to Padiham............

[lawrence]

I would personally replace the frame too, especially if your not a competent welder

[Cater_Racer]

My welding is crap Lawrence, I won't risk it.

 

Thanks one and all, I'll get the sub-frame out and get a replacement, probably do both radius arms as well.

 

Gerry

[Dusky]

Sure it's not someone who wanted to adjust the suspension that way?

[Spider]

Noted that the OP has decided to replace the Subframe, however, welding in an extra piece here I don't regard as an option at all. The existing fame at that point is about 1/4" thick. It needs all that and really some more to properly support the Pin at that point, the loadings here are huge.

[tiger99]

That is a good point! The inner end of the pin is reacting most of the load on the rubber cone, which due to the lever arm ratio is about 5 times the instantaneous wheel load. With a full boot, heavy back seat passengers,and a (hopefully very) occasional 5G bump,  cornering hard with most of the weight on one side, I would guess 7 or 8 tonnes peak. Not to be trifled with!

 

But coming back to an earlier remark, it would be possible that someone who was unaware of the peak loads involved may have tried to slot the inner mount to be able to adjust camber independently of toe. A vertical slot at one end and a horizontal slot at the other end of the pivot pin, in theory, gives you that capability. I have been trying to devise a better method of adjustment for ages, due to the highly unsatisfactory failure rate of a certain brand of adjustable camber/toe brackets, and that was the logical choice until I considered loading.

[nicklouse]

I have been trying to devise a better method of adjustment for ages, due to the highly unsatisfactory failure rate of a certain brand of adjustable camber/toe brackets, and that was the logical choice until I considered loading.

A solution was done in the 80s.

A square hole and replaceable plates with holes in different positions.

There was reinforcing added etc. Worked very well on the metros.

[need4speed]

Is there actually a way of setting camber and toe on a standard set-up. I've just replaced the rear subframe, radius arms etc. but it just appears to bolt together. What's the point of BL/Rover stating camber and toe settings if it's not designed to be adjustable... or have I missed something?

[nicklouse]

you can shim the bracket.