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Verto Clutch Arm Clevis Pin Rusted In


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#1 MatthewsDad

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Posted 07 December 2017 - 07:42 PM

Hi, the lower clevis pin on my clutch arm is rusted in. The clutch arm rotates freely, it's the clevis pin that's frozen solid. Have been soaking it for a week with plus gas and hammering it as best I can in the confined space. I don't have access to heat. Has anyone got any suggestions? I'm thinking of grinding off the top of the pin and trying to drift it downwards. Or am I missing something really obvious?
Many thanks

#2 jonlad

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Posted 07 December 2017 - 08:08 PM

Hi, just had the same on a flywheel cover that's been sat for a long long time. 

 

Luckily it wasn't on an engine so i could hold it solid in a vice and give it some welly with a hammer and punch.  there was a fairly hefty step worn into the pin by the clutch lever which really didn't help. Maybe try waggling the clutch lever while tapping in the space that you have?

 

Or -and i know it'd be a lot of work- take the cover off? Not sure here but maybe you could support the engine on solid wood or jack or axle stands and remove the engine mount and the flywheel cover?

 

I'm sure somebody will be along to advise if this is possible...

Good luck!



#3 jonlad

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Posted 07 December 2017 - 08:09 PM

Perhaps if you could grind a couple of flats on the head, it might help you turn it and break the rusty bond with the alu cover?



#4 nicklouse

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Posted 07 December 2017 - 08:19 PM

so it is rotating with the arm? or it is stuck in the casing?

 

or...... it just will not come out?



#5 MatthewsDad

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Posted 07 December 2017 - 10:23 PM

The arm is ok and isn't siezed onto the pin. The pin is siezed solid in the casing.
Grinding flats is a good idea.

#6 cal844

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Posted 07 December 2017 - 10:45 PM

The arm is ok and isn't siezed onto the pin. The pin is siezed solid in the casing.
Grinding flats is a good idea.


The only way you'll be able to resolve this is by cutting the pin(remove the casing to give more space and accuracy)

#7 nicklouse

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Posted 07 December 2017 - 10:56 PM

The arm is ok and isn't siezed onto the pin. The pin is siezed solid in the casing.
Grinding flats is a good idea.

plus gas will free it up. then rotate 180 degrees and tap it out.



#8 cal844

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Posted 07 December 2017 - 11:15 PM


The arm is ok and isn't siezed onto the pin. The pin is siezed solid in the casing.
Grinding flats is a good idea.

plus gas will free it up. then rotate 180 degrees and tap it out.

Try a small amount of heat too?

#9 Rorf

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Posted 08 December 2017 - 05:16 AM

Drill the pin out



#10 Magneto

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Posted 12 December 2017 - 01:05 AM

The only way I've had any success getting these out is to remove the cover, be sure to support the boss on the other side from where you're drifting the pin out.



#11 MatthewsDad

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Posted 12 December 2017 - 07:26 AM

Thanks everybody, looks like I'll be spending some time in the garage over the Christmas break. I've got pretty much everything stripped down already.

Problem now is deciding whether to go all the way and deal with the oil seal leak at the same time.

#12 sonikk4

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Posted 12 December 2017 - 08:21 AM

Small socket and G clamp. Socket over the the head of the pin and then use the G clamp to force the pin through.

#13 Northernpower

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Posted 12 December 2017 - 10:22 AM

Thanks everybody, looks like I'll be spending some time in the garage over the Christmas break. I've got pretty much everything stripped down already.

Problem now is deciding whether to go all the way and deal with the oil seal leak at the same time.

If you've got it that far to pieces it's not a lot more work to change out the oil seal and you'll feel a whole lot better when you do. You can also check the clutch at the same time.






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