97 replies to this topic

[Anthony30]

Engine and gearbox split. 

[Anthony30]

Fusion Fabrications manifold kit arrived today.

[johnR]

Nice fabrication work

[Anthony30]

Nice fabrication work

Yep. He made me a t15 manifold before I decided to go 1293. His work is always top quality, and well worth the money.

[Anthony30]

Good luck man, when do you expect to finish it?

Should be ready for MITP 2019, hopefully. Just a money issue really. £600/700 ish for the head, £714 for the quaife atb diff, god knows now much for the gearbox, med 1.3 rockers £250 ish ect.    Just buying bits when I can. I could reuse the old drop gears, rockers ect, but it would be nuts with the power, and would be waiting for it to go wrong. I want it done right first time round, which is another way of saying money pit.

[hazpalmer14]

You dont need those 1.3 rockers. Thats money you could spend on something else. If you've got money to burn then get some, otherwise decent standard ones will do

[Anthony30]

You dont need those 1.3 rockers. Thats money you could spend on something else. If you've got money to burn then get some, otherwise decent standard ones will do

I've not got money to burn, but worth spending the money, and getting a set of decent rockers. I don't think it will make much of a difference to the total cost with the way It's going.    The gearbox and diff is going to cost a fortune. Looking at the minispares helical evo kit. Either that or the clubman gearset. The gearbox will be mostly new apart from the casing and forks ect. :/ Diff will be a Quaife atb. I want the engine to last for years, so needs must.

[Anthony30]

Not updated this for a while. I've had a nightmare trying to find a pre verto grey clutch cover. Spoke to Avonbar, and should get one in a couple of weeks. Sorting out a minispares order as we speak, and bought a MED pre verto HD arm kit. I'm booked into turbo phil to get a fast road/trackday spec cylinder head in December.

 

[Anthony30]

Finally made some kind of progress.    

 

 

 

 

[minorconfusion]

as already stated, rockers will give more lift, not duration, this helps nothing with a turbo. better off throwing standard rockers in, the turbo will force the air in ether way, likft just looses boost your engine has to recompress. a cam would be a better idea to gain duration rather than lift. you dont need to flow a turbo head at ALL... flowing a forced head will give you tiny gains when compaired with n/a engines wich benifit hugeley. all your doing by increasing diameters is slowing down and decompressing air. so long as the port feed is no smaller than the valve (flow bench proven)

[jt19]

Did you get a grey clutch cover sorted?
I have a grey and a double grey on my parts shelf I'm probably not going to use. Also have a kad flywheel and med clutch arm kit...

[mini13]

I'm going to sort of disagree with this, increasing head flow can only be a good thing, but not at the expense of gas speed, there are a few bottle necks in the std head which will help if you sort them out. its worth going to 1.4" valves and 3 angle seats and back cutting valves going to the larger valves helps to get the correct approach to the valve seat ( throat should be 0.95 the seat diameter), and also a basic tidy up, what this will do keep the gas speed uniform, every time gas speed increases/ decreases its a baaad thing, generally a good st2-st3 head would be a good bet assuming the compression ratio is right.

 

with the rockers, hig lift ones wont increas seat duration, but they increase duration everywhere else, often lift specs are given as seat timing and timing at 50thou, to be honest i would say the 1.3's will be fine as they are not much different to standard ( 1.5's would definalty make a difference, giving abit more top end at the expense of low end) the 1.3's might be woth it in terms of longevity if they are roller tips, as this will load the guides less and reduce wear.

 

 

 

 

as already stated, rockers will give more lift, not duration, this helps nothing with a turbo. better off throwing standard rockers in, the turbo will force the air in ether way, likft just looses boost your engine has to recompress. a cam would be a better idea to gain duration rather than lift. you dont need to flow a turbo head at ALL... flowing a forced head will give you tiny gains when compaired with n/a engines wich benifit hugeley. all your doing by increasing diameters is slowing down and decompressing air. so long as the port feed is no smaller than the valve (flow bench proven)

[Turbo Phil]

as already stated, rockers will give more lift, not duration, this helps nothing with a turbo. better off throwing standard rockers in, the turbo will force the air in ether way, likft just looses boost your engine has to recompress. a cam would be a better idea to gain duration rather than lift. you dont need to flow a turbo head at ALL... flowing a forced head will give you tiny gains when compaired with n/a engines wich benifit hugeley. all your doing by increasing diameters is slowing down and decompressing air. so long as the port feed is no smaller than the valve (flow bench proven)

Apologies but most of that is complete nonsense. Turbo engines respond to improvements in flow just as a NA does. Any restriction to flow will cause a pressure drop and ultimately a reduction in cylinder filling. Show me one proven high output turbo A-series that’s running a standard head ? Just because the air is compressed doesn’t mean it doesn’t see the restriction.
Most of the gains in flow on an A-series head don’t come from increasing port diameters, but modifications to the seat, throat, chamber area and removing the guide boss.
Turbo engines generally respond well to short duration and high lift with a wide LCA reducing overlap.

[minorconfusion]

 

as already stated, rockers will give more lift, not duration, this helps nothing with a turbo. better off throwing standard rockers in, the turbo will force the air in ether way, likft just looses boost your engine has to recompress. a cam would be a better idea to gain duration rather than lift. you dont need to flow a turbo head at ALL... flowing a forced head will give you tiny gains when compaired with n/a engines wich benifit hugeley. all your doing by increasing diameters is slowing down and decompressing air. so long as the port feed is no smaller than the valve (flow bench proven)

Apologies but most of that is complete nonsense. Turbo engines respond to improvements in flow just as a NA does. Any restriction to flow will cause a pressure drop and ultimately a reduction in cylinder filling. Show me one proven high output turbo A-series that’s running a standard head ? Just because the air is compressed doesn’t mean it doesn’t see the restriction.
Most of the gains in flow on an A-series head don’t come from increasing port diameters, but modifications to the seat, throat, chamber area and removing the guide boss.
Turbo engines generally respond well to short duration and high lift with a wide LCA reducing overlap.

 

i cant say ive got much experience turboing a series engines, but this is true with turbo engines. you are basicly wasting time "port flowing" any head. the bottlenecks are one thing, the gas will move equally well through a much more indirect path as its presurized... basic gas dynamics. yes you may get some gains, but they are nominal when compaired to n/a engines.as little overlap and as much duration as you can without overlap. that is how to make big power with turbos, and yes there are many 600+ bhp 20v engines out there running STOCK heads that benifet ZERO from "port flowing"... but again, ive not much experience with the a series, i suspect a port match is MUCH befor avarage joe fitting a turbo to his mini. most cams for a series engines hate turbo's, holding the valve open more will only aid in the turbo holding the valve open, meaning heavier springs and even more wear. not to mention the side load introduced from what will be a 200 quid NOMINAL gain

[minorconfusion]

sorry to sound a bit power hungry, but everyone's talking about making an every day drivable refined car, its a 1950's engine with a turbocharger and a shed loads of go faster bits... im sorry to assume people who do such a thing want something with as much peak power as possible at the expense of drivability, why the hell else are you turboing a 1950's engine? high lift and low duration will give you a nice drivable car, some high lift rockers will give you a bit more spread but a load more wear, and again, wind the boost up and you will hold valves open. basicly, do you want a toned down turbo that eats valvetrain, or a happy lumpy monster running half decent boost? its all a question of what your after at the end of the day