34 replies to this topic

[mini13]

out of interest, do you machine the housing, or just skim it on some wet & dry?

 

 

Oil pump endfloat is as Nicklouse stated. Aim for 0.003" on the oil pump.

Ac

 

[nicklouse]

 

out of interest, do you machine the housing, or just skim it on some wet & dry?

 

 

Oil pump endfloat is as Nicklouse stated. Aim for 0.003" on the oil pump.

Ac

 

AC uses a lathe.

 

I being a home garage person use wet and dry on a sheet of glass (wet).

 

it comes down to what you have to work with.

 

you can guess which is the right way to do though.

[mini13]

Good Answer,

 

I guess i knew that really from AC's attention to detail... but i was thinking is it quicker to just do it like you do rather than clock it up

[MacFreuden]

Evening all, I understand from reading this thread that machining is required if the end float of the camshaft is too small, however what to do if the camshaft end float is too large, coming in at 0.011" or 11 thou as measured with a DTI and the bolt on, torqued up with a washer and gasket fitted to the oilpump.

I have fitted a new camshaft (evolution001 from minispares) new oil oump and camshaft retaining plate (the old one had a worn groove approx 6 thou and so I bought a new one thinking this would reduce the endfloat but to no avail).

Im stumped on what to do, any advice?

Thanks

[ACDodd]

If the endfloat is too large the same thing applies the rear of the camshaft sprocket needs machining in a lathe to reduce the the endfloat. In your case 0.006" needs machining off the appropriate part of the sprocket to reduce the float to a sensible level.

Ac

[nicklouse]

see Above.

Edited by nicklouse, 05 December 2019 - 10:59 PM.

[MacFreuden]

Could you expalin how this reduces the end float? I am probably just being thick but the way you describe would mean for example...

When the camshaft is moved towards the back on the engine its o.ooo" and then when the camshaft is slid towards the front there's 0.011".

So if the camshaft end float is retained by the oil pump and the cam retaining plate I dont understand how the camshaft end float is reduced by skimming the cam sprocket by 0.006"...

[imack]

Forget the oil pump, it has nothing to do with setting the camshaft end float.
The end float is effectively set by the thickness of the triangular cam retaining plate and the depth of the 'step' on the cam side of the cam sprocket.
That's why to reduce the clearance you need to machine a few thou from the face of the cam sprocket where it butts up to the end of the camshaft, thus reducing the depth of the 'step'

[nicklouse]

Could you expalin how this reduces the end float? I am probably just being thick but the way you describe would mean for example...

When the camshaft is moved towards the back on the engine its o.ooo" and then when the camshaft is slid towards the front there's 0.011".

So if the camshaft end float is retained by the oil pump and the cam retaining plate I dont understand how the camshaft end float is reduced by skimming the cam sprocket by 0.006"...

NO. The oil pump has nothing to do with the camshaft endfloat. You can set the cam endfloat without the pump fitted.

[MacFreuden]

Thanks for the answers guys, and excuse what I realise now to be a rather dim thing about the oil pump etc, I hadn't realised that the the camshaft retaining plate was actually sandwiched between the sprocket and cam - therefore setting the float of the cam.

JB

[imack]

Recheck the cam end float after fitting the pump as it has been known for the pump drive to bottom out in the drive slot in the cam.

[nicklouse]

Recheck the cam end float after fitting the pump as it has been known for the pump drive to bottom out in the drive slot in the cam.

That tends to be on faulty made cams though.

[JonnyAlpha]

Resurrecting my old thread here, yes its been over 8 months and I am now at the stage where I need to check the Camshaft End Float.

 

I am still not quite sure of the process whether or not you need to have the Oil Pump on or not when doing this, as they should not affect each other. And I cannot find anywhere that explains how to lift the Cam Sprocket to check?

 

With the Oil Pump fitted (no gasket), and the bolts done up the pump is solid.

 

I have fitted the Cam and Crank Timing Sprockets and they appear to be level with no shims fitted. (New Cam Sprockets and Chain (EVO Duplex).

With the Cam Lock Tab on and Nut done up (not Torqued), if I lift then Sprocket using my hands I get 0.005" on the DTI gauge, which, according to the Rover Repair manual is with tolerance (0.003" - 0.007".

 

If it needs to be Torqued on - how do you hold the CamShaft?

 

What is the correct way of lifting the Cam Sprocket?

Edited by JonnyAlpha, 28 August 2020 - 03:29 PM.

[nicklouse]

The chain hold the cam sprocket. The gears should be checked with the cam pulled forward.

[JonnyAlpha]

The chain hold the cam sprocket. The gears should be checked with the cam pulled forward.

What do you mean ‘pulled forward’?

So if I fit the chain and the timing gears, it will hold everything in place and allow me to Torque up the Cam Nut?

What is the correct procedure for lifting the Cam Sprocket to check End Float? Hands on either side or a screwdriver under the gear?

My gears are level without any shims, is that normal?

I did just try and fit the Crank Gear but this time with a new Woodruff Key, I gently knocked the key in as far as I’d dare and went to fit the gear. It’s blooming tight and if I knock it on it’s going to need a puller to get it off (which I don’t have) anyone recommend one for this job in case it needs to come off again.

Edited by JonnyAlpha, 28 August 2020 - 06:07 PM.