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Drum To Disc Conversion Hints And Tips Please


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#16 nicklouse

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Posted 08 January 2020 - 07:53 PM

Do you need to add a servo for the disc brakes? I am thinking of replacing front drums with discs, but not a servo (to much work for LHD). Is it possible?

Nope.



#17 manosr

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Posted 10 January 2020 - 01:28 PM

 

Do you need to add a servo for the disc brakes? I am thinking of replacing front drums with discs, but not a servo (to much work for LHD). Is it possible?

Nope.

 

Nope, its not possible, or Nope, you don't need a servo? (Thank you!)



#18 nicklouse

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Posted 10 January 2020 - 01:31 PM

not needed.



#19 Moke Spider

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Posted 10 January 2020 - 06:38 PM

Do you need to add a servo for the disc brakes? I am thinking of replacing front drums with discs, but not a servo (to much work for LHD). Is it possible?

 

Many people do fit them up without a servo and like it, but some do prefer a servo.  Until you try them without, you won't really know if you want one or not. You do need a fair bit more pedal pressure with Discs. With this in mind, I'll suggest fitting them up without a servo, but you do want to be able to fit one if you feel you'd like one.

 

I don't know what model your Mini is, but even with a LHD Car, there's a few options, an easy one is to fit a Hydraulic Servo in the engine bay over the clutch / flywheel end of the engine bay. If your car has Front / Rear split Tandem  Brakes, just Plumb it in to the Fronts. If you have Diagonal Splits, then this could be a headache, or if you can legally convert it to front / rear splits, that would be the solution.



#20 no66

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Posted 10 January 2020 - 08:49 PM

 

Do you need to add a servo for the disc brakes? I am thinking of replacing front drums with discs, but not a servo (to much work for LHD). Is it possible?

 

Many people do fit them up without a servo and like it, but some do prefer a servo.  Until you try them without, you won't really know if you want one or not. You do need a fair bit more pedal pressure with Discs. With this in mind, I'll suggest fitting them up without a servo, but you do want to be able to fit one if you feel you'd like one.

 

I don't know what model your Mini is, but even with a LHD Car, there's a few options, an easy one is to fit a Hydraulic Servo in the engine bay over the clutch / flywheel end of the engine bay. If your car has Front / Rear split Tandem  Brakes, just Plumb it in to the Fronts. If you have Diagonal Splits, then this could be a headache, or if you can legally convert it to front / rear splits, that would be the solution.

 

Have modded a diagonal split to front rear split. Made up new pipe with the correct unions at the block. 



#21 unburntfuelinthemorning

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Posted 11 January 2020 - 07:04 PM

How tight a fit should the inner bearing races be on the CV joint?  Are they an interference fit or more of a transition fit?  When dismantling, when the hub is removed from the car, does the inside inner race remain on the CV joint or does it come away with the hub?



#22 KTS

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Posted 12 January 2020 - 09:49 AM

you should be able to separate the cv joint from the hub without taking any of the bearing with it. 

 

the inner race assemblies won't (normally) fit through the hub bearing seals 


Edited by KTS, 12 January 2020 - 09:57 AM.


#23 nicklouse

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Posted 12 January 2020 - 11:34 AM

you should be able to separate the cv joint from the hub without taking any of the bearing with it. 

 

the inner race assemblies won't (normally) fit through the hub bearing seals 

Bit normally the rear bearing set will come with the CV . And some times the front race has also attached its self to the CV so a good whack helps.



#24 unburntfuelinthemorning

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Posted 12 January 2020 - 12:46 PM

Not a massively tight fit then.  So it's the clamping force provided by the hub nut which keeps everything in place and prevents the inner races from rotating on the CV joint.

 

One further question:  the manuals I have say the hub nut torque is 150 lbs/ft but I'm sure I remember seeing an alternative higher figure somewhere possibly to do with how many split pin holes there are.  Did I imagine this?



#25 cal844

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Posted 12 January 2020 - 05:43 PM

Not a massively tight fit then. So it's the clamping force provided by the hub nut which keeps everything in place and prevents the inner races from rotating on the CV joint.

One further question: the manuals I have say the hub nut torque is 150 lbs/ft but I'm sure I remember seeing an alternative higher figure somewhere possibly to do with how many split pin holes there are. Did I imagine this?

Yes that's correct and there are indeed 2 figures for the hub nuts, depends on disc or drum.

207Nm according to the PDF in the pinned post (technical section, Torque Settings Reformatted)

Hope this helps

Edited by cal844, 12 January 2020 - 05:51 PM.


#26 unburntfuelinthemorning

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Posted 12 January 2020 - 06:33 PM

I've just found this thread which has some interesting opinions on the subject and includes this post about torque settings.



#27 Moke Spider

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Posted 12 January 2020 - 06:41 PM

As it seems you are up to that part of your hub build, you might find some helpful info here too;-

 

http://www.theminifo...wheel-bearings/

 



#28 unburntfuelinthemorning

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Posted 16 January 2020 - 08:35 PM

I've fitted the hub/bearings and disc to one side now.  Checked the runout and it's 0.004", twice as such as it should be.  Maybe I've got some crap between the drive flange and disc but I thought I'd cleaned it up alright.  The manual says to try repositioning the disc on the drive flange but should this be necessary with new parts?



#29 nicklouse

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Posted 16 January 2020 - 10:23 PM

I've fitted the hub/bearings and disc to one side now.  Checked the runout and it's 0.004", twice as such as it should be.  Maybe I've got some crap between the drive flange and disc but I thought I'd cleaned it up alright.  The manual says to try repositioning the disc on the drive flange but should this be necessary with new parts?

How does it compare to the drive flange?



#30 unburntfuelinthemorning

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Posted 16 January 2020 - 10:40 PM

 

I've fitted the hub/bearings and disc to one side now.  Checked the runout and it's 0.004", twice as such as it should be.  Maybe I've got some crap between the drive flange and disc but I thought I'd cleaned it up alright.  The manual says to try repositioning the disc on the drive flange but should this be necessary with new parts?

How does it compare to the drive flange?

 

Good question, I'll check that next time.






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