76 replies to this topic

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

Minispares show the shim in the above link but it says 'no longer required' next to the part number as well as NLA.

[nicklouse]

as you may find a sticky pad on the back of the pads.

[AP2020]

 

 

 

I've fitted the hub/bearings and disc to one side now.  Checked the runout and it's 0.004", twice as such as it should be.  Maybe I've got some crap between the drive flange and disc but I thought I'd cleaned it up alright.  The manual says to try repositioning the disc on the drive flange but should this be necessary with new parts?

How does it compare to the drive flange?

 

Good question, I'll check that next time.

 

Guessing they are the S type. Often people do not get the drive flanges seated fully. So you can also compare the edge of the disc flange that is just outside of the drive flange. They should have the same runout.

 

 

The best way to see if you can improve on the runout....

 

1) mark up the position of the drive flange (DF) to CV

2) mark the position of the highest runout on the DF

3) remove DF and rotate 90 degrees refit

4) check run out

5) repeat as required

 

Note that taking a reading from your disc could lead to a false reading of runout

 

If your DF has 0.004" runout and your disc also has 0.004" runout you will either see 0.000" or 0.008" both of which are not accurate representations of your system

[AP2020]

 

 

So the 4 thou runout I'm seeing is quite normal even though the manual says 2 thou maximum?

 

Again, not ideal, but I wouldn't loose too much sleep over it. I wouldn't want anymore that that.

 

As long as I don't end up with a pulsating pedal.

 

It maybe that the diagram you are looking at is only showing the Caliper 1/2 bolts , item 3 ?
 

 

 

Bolt is item 8 on this one but no washer shown.

 

 

If you are running with the standard split type Tapered Washers (the one behind the CV Nut), then those runout figures, while not ideal, are about what to expect and I wouldn't loose too much sleep over them.

 

What other type of tapered washers are available?

 

 

I think it was Graeme C (?) who recently put me on to the KAD type

 

https://kentautodeve...cv-taper-washer

I was actually going to make these when I was referred to them.

 

Do you think it's worth fitting the KAD type on road cars?

 

 

Thats interesting because the split is there for a reason and the KAD ones don't have a split   

 

Alsoi the ROVER manual states to use a large flat washer as a tool only to pull the CV and bearing system together

 

http://minispares.co...|Back to search

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

I used a suitable large washer to pull everything together before fitting the split taper collar but only went to around 100 lb/ft as I thought that'd be enough to pull everything together.  I've heard some say this is an unnecessary step anyway.

[nicklouse]

Thats interesting because the split is there for a reason and the KAD ones don't have a split   
 
Alsoi the ROVER manual states to use a large flat washer as a tool only to pull the CV and bearing system together
 
http://minispares.co...|Back to search

interesting i cant find the info about the washer in the spi or mpi rover manuals, in fact no mention of the bearings in the mpi manual and in the spi it just says make sure they are seated.

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

 

Thats interesting because the split is there for a reason and the KAD ones don't have a split   
 
Alsoi the ROVER manual states to use a large flat washer as a tool only to pull the CV and bearing system together
 
http://minispares.co...|Back to search

interesting i cant find the info about the washer in the spi or mpi rover manuals, in fact no mention of the bearings in the mpi manual and in the spi it just says make sure they are seated.

 

I've only seen it in the Haynes manual supplement.

[AP2020]

I used a suitable large washer to pull everything together before fitting the split taper collar but only went to around 100 lb/ft as I thought that'd be enough to pull everything together.  I've heard some say this is an unnecessary step anyway.

 

It should be 150lbf ft and then tighten to the next hole in the CV joint.

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

 

I used a suitable large washer to pull everything together before fitting the split taper collar but only went to around 100 lb/ft as I thought that'd be enough to pull everything together.  I've heard some say this is an unnecessary step anyway.

 

It should be 150lbf ft and then tighten to the next hole in the CV joint.

 

Sorry I didn't make myself very clear.  It's as above but I haven't finished yet. 

 

I've done it to 100 lb/ft with the car in the air but will go for the final torque once the wheels are on with the vehicle on the ground.  I was wondering if going to 100 lb/ft with the flat washer was sufficient to seat everything before changing to the split taper collar and doing it up to the full torque setting as 100 lb/ft was about the most I fancied torquing to with it in jacked up.  Hope that makes some sort of sense.

 

Also I believe that the torque is higher than 150 with the type of CV joint I'm using.  See here.

[AP2020]

 

 

I used a suitable large washer to pull everything together before fitting the split taper collar but only went to around 100 lb/ft as I thought that'd be enough to pull everything together.  I've heard some say this is an unnecessary step anyway.

 

It should be 150lbf ft and then tighten to the next hole in the CV joint.

 

Sorry I didn't make myself very clear.  It's as above but I haven't finished yet. 

 

I've done it to 100 lb/ft with the car in the air but will go for the final torque once the wheels are on with the vehicle on the ground.  I was wondering if going to 100 lb/ft with the flat washer was sufficient to seat everything before changing to the split taper collar and doing it up to the full torque setting as 100 lb/ft was about the most I fancied torquing to with it in jacked up.  Hope that makes some sort of sense.

 

Also I believe that the torque is higher than 150 with the type of CV joint I'm using.  See here.

 

 

For the flat washer yes certainly as its just used to settle the assembly together, the concept is simple enough, it reduces the chance of the split washer clamping on the CV before it pulls up tight, and then scrapping your assembly as you drive on it loose.

 

It will be when you tighten it to the next hole, makesure you use the correct grease for wheel bearings and not the normal LM

[Spider]

It should be 150lbf ft and then tighten to the next hole in the CV joint

 

For the flat washer yes certainly as its just used to settle the assembly together, the concept is simple enough, it reduces the chance of the split washer clamping on the CV before it pulls up tight, and then scrapping your assembly as you drive on it loose.

 

 

The figures you are quoting here are around 20 years out of date from the end of production.

 

And, that's exactly what is wrong with the Split Washers, ie it grips the CV long before getting full tension on the CV shaft, especially if its a used CV and washer.
 

[unburntfuelinthemorning]

Will somebody confirm for me whether the hub nut torque specs in this post are correct? 

[AP2020]

 

It should be 150lbf ft and then tighten to the next hole in the CV joint

 

For the flat washer yes certainly as its just used to settle the assembly together, the concept is simple enough, it reduces the chance of the split washer clamping on the CV before it pulls up tight, and then scrapping your assembly as you drive on it loose.

 

 

The figures you are quoting here are around 20 years out of date from the end of production.

 

And, that's exactly what is wrong with the Split Washers, ie it grips the CV long before getting full tension on the CV shaft, especially if its a used CV and washer.
 

 

 

That's because the last CV's fitted at production are no available, the material spec was different and they had 2 split pin holes to allow for the reduced elasticity of this material grade.

 

It's not "what is wrong with the split collar" its designed that way to make the assembly concentric and remove any clearances that will cause an issue, you have to remember that manufacturing tolerances can be a lot tighter today than even 20 years ago.

[AP2020]

Will somebody confirm for me whether the hub nut torque specs in this post are correct? 

 

In my experience if you tighten to 150 then align to the next split pin hole you will have no issues, and that is with racing slicks on an almost road weight Mini, I always use a flat washer to pull them up, it removes any issues that people would see with loose  inner bearing races, also, any wear within the assembly ie on the CV/bearing face or will kill the assembly very quickly.

 

look for a rusty stain around your CV nut area and its time to replace the CV, probably drive flange, cone washer, nut, bearing and in some case the hub, skimp on this will only hurt later.

[Spider]

Will somebody confirm for me whether the hub nut torque specs in this post are correct? 

Yes.