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First Time Body Work


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#1 Ade-Cooper

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Posted 25 March 2020 - 03:10 PM

Hi all,

 

I'm looking at starting my new project soon. I have a shell which is in considerably better condition then my current road legal mini, so plans are to re-shell.

 

My question is what equipment do I need and where do I start........

 

Shell is rolling, so strip down all parts and store is my first idea....

 

Next - I need a new front, and there are a couple holes (rust) in scuttle, and body....

 

Whats the best welder to purchase (complete novice)?

 

My idea would be too get the body perfect and prepped then have painted (the expensive bit) and exchange all decent bits from one to the other.

 

Most of you folks have done this before - so any advice would be massively appreciated!!!!!

 

Many thanks 



#2 MiddletoM

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Posted 25 March 2020 - 08:35 PM

Clarke 135TE will do all you need for a mini project. Mines now done two restorations and is going strong, it was second hand too! I would recommend finding a supplier for Hobbyweld Gas and get the Hobbyweld 5 cylinder. You pay something like £100 (dont quote me on that) for the deposit and first cylinder then its about £50 to replace the cylinder when empty. If you no longer need the hobbyweld cylinders you can get back the deposit when you drop off your last cylinder.

If you are prepping the body i would talk to the bodyshop who will be carrying out the painting. Some dont like picking up jobs that have been prepped by someone else because they dont know what products have been used and how their paints will react. They dont want the responsibility if something does react badly and causes issues after the paint job has been done. Talk to them and ask what they would recommend you use for fillers and primers.

If you need sheet metal dont order it online or down at wickes, its horrendously expensive. Find a local sheet metal supplier and ask them if they have some scrap 1mm steel panel off cuts. most are more than happy for you to take scrap, i always give them a fiver or something which they are more than happy for. Last time my local metal shop didnt have any scraps but i gave them a tenner and got about 2 square metres cut to manageable sizes.

Halfords now have a small welding supply section (my local one does anyway), this is useful if you run out of MIG wire and dont want to wait for some to arrive in the post. Use 0.6mm MIG wire, you need less power with the welder and I find its easier to use.

You will need an angle grinder with wire wheels, flap discs (80 and 120 grit are what i use), cutting discs and a grinding disc. 

I painted the underside of my car myself (including halfway up the engine bay) so i bought an air compressor, this was cheaper than having the body shop do it and it meant i could roll the shell to the bodyshop so they just needed to paint the interior, boot, top half of engine bay and body.



#3 sonikk4

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Posted 25 March 2020 - 08:58 PM

http://www.theminifo...se-for-welding/

 

http://www.theminifo...nnet-boot-gaps/

 

http://www.theminifo...nd-outer-sills/



#4 Ade-Cooper

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Posted 26 March 2020 - 08:26 AM

Cheers guys, really helpful info!

 

Appreciate it and no doubt a million more questions later on 

 

O_O



#5 sonscar

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Posted 26 March 2020 - 09:51 AM

Be careful re "reshell" some people frown on it.I would personally keep it to myself.Steve..

#6 sonikk4

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Posted 26 March 2020 - 10:34 AM

So with regards to sheet metal, you will need 0.9mm and 1.2mm thickness. 

 

0.9mm is the standard thickness throughout the car other than a few areas, notably Toeboard, Heelboard. The front crossmember is slightly thicker still but unfortunately i have not taken a thickness check of that. 

 

And as mentioned buy from a Fabrication / machine shop. They are about and most will cut it down to more manageable sizes to get it in your car.

 

The links i have posted up are guides only and everyone has different ways of doing the sme task.



#7 Ade-Cooper

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Posted 26 March 2020 - 04:41 PM

Be careful re "reshell" some people frown on it.I would personally keep it to myself.Steve..

 

Sorry - all I will be doing is putting all the brand new built front, back, and interior bits into a different shell....

 

But will keep the old girl and hopefully do something a little special later on in life - aim will always be have one original and one a little different...... but dont tell the mrs!!  :bah:



#8 sonscar

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Posted 26 March 2020 - 09:21 PM

That is where you should be careful.Google second hand shell replacement.Steve..

#9 Honda-Mini

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Posted 28 May 2020 - 09:00 PM

What does the guidance actually say?  There are two separate sets of rules - one for 'rebuilt' and another for 'radically altered' vehicles. 'Radically altered' is defined as "vehicles which are substantially altered from their original specification, but which are not kit conversions" (think Vtec with metro front subframes etc).  The two sets of rules are similar although not identical.

 

For rebuilt vehicles, the rules state that in order to retain the original registration mark (direct quotes from VOSA website are in italics):

 

Cars and car-derived vans must use:

 

The original unmodified chassis or unaltered bodyshell (i.e. body and chassis as one unit - monocoque); or a new chassis or monocoque bodyshell of the same specification as the original supported by evidence from the dealer or manufacturer (e.g. receipt).

 

And two other major components from the original vehicle - ie suspension (front & back); steering assembly; axles (both); transmission or engine.

 

If a second-hand chassis or monocoque bodyshell is used a car must pass an Individual Vehicle Approval (IVA) and light goods vans must have a enhanced single vehicle approval (ESVA) or single vehicle approval (SVA) test after which a "Q" prefix registration number will be allocated.

 

For radically altered vehicles a points system is used.  Vehicle must score eight or more points to retain the original identity and avoid the need for an SVA test.  The following values are allocated to the major components used:

 

chassis or body shell (body and chassis as one unit - monocoque ie direct replacement from the manufacturer) (original or new) = 5 points

 

suspension = 2 points

 

axles = 2 points

 

transmission = 2 points

 

steering assembly = 2 points

 

engine = 1 point

 

so with the OP using all his own suspension, axles, engine/gearbox and steering from the Original (VOSA do allow like for like new stuff too, so it can be replaced during the build) he should just squeak through with 9 points 

 

HTH

Martyn


Edited by Honda-Mini, 28 May 2020 - 09:02 PM.


#10 sonscar

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Posted 29 May 2020 - 01:13 PM

Without a question the original unmodified monocoque MUST be used to avoid SVA.I am not saying this but I personally would be careful what I told the internet what I was doing in respect of this.DVSA have the power to remove your logbook.Play canny is all I am saying,Steve..




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