Pro-motive R1 Questions
#16
Posted 04 November 2008 - 10:11 PM
depends on how you drive it, mines done 32,000 miles
3 days
5000 5500
7000
probably rise due to cost of materials
torque steer aint too bad
people cant keep up to follow me
have to wear ear plugs
#17
Posted 05 November 2008 - 08:14 PM
subframe, diff casing, diff, radiator etc etc, all on promo site
depends on how you drive it, mines done 32,000 miles
3 days
5000 5500
7000
probably rise due to cost of materials
torque steer aint too bad
people cant keep up to follow me
have to wear ear plugs
whats the extra 2 grand for???
and how can you wear ear plugs when you left malvern yours sounded the tucking fits
#18
Posted 05 November 2008 - 11:35 PM
#19
Posted 06 November 2008 - 08:21 PM
have to wear ear plugs
Do you have any soundproofing in your car? Or is it a more minimal, stripped interior?
And what brakes are you using?
#20
Posted 06 November 2008 - 08:56 PM
have to wear ear plugs
Do you have any soundproofing in your car? Or is it a more minimal, stripped interior?
And what brakes are you using?
I have - more refined and i dont find i need to use ear plugs.
metro-turbo up front and minifins on the rear ( but i am upgrading to MRA mega-brakes soon )
#21
Posted 06 November 2008 - 09:29 PM
#22
Posted 06 November 2008 - 09:48 PM
i have sound insulation and carpets, roofless... has no roof... which seems to effect the noise ALOT (reducing).
yeah - no resonance - much quieter
#23
Posted 06 November 2008 - 09:55 PM
does the kit come with an engine
and i really cant work out what the 2g is for can you name some things
#24
Posted 06 November 2008 - 10:23 PM
i dont mean to sound a pest but,
does the kit come with an engine
and i really cant work out what the 2g is for can you name some things
All the prices, and the list of parts you get is on the web-site.
You supply your own engine, loom, ecu ( if needed ) fuel pump, fuel lines, fuel pressure regulator, digital dash or similar, and a bunch of smaller bits n bobs.
phone phil and daz - they'll answer all your questions and help you identify a package that best suits your budget.
#25
Posted 06 November 2008 - 10:28 PM
If you go Z-Car you pay more money, but you do get a full roll cage, so, assuming you're suitably bucket-seated and harnessed in, you will be safer in an accident. Given what you're doing to the cars any accident is likely to be more serious, so it's something to consider. For me it's the deal breaker/maker, because I'd feel a lot safer with all that extra metal between me and the outside world, plus it looks cool!
I know you can do all that with the Pro-Motive separately, but the Z-Cars race kit also gives you what effectively becomes a space-frame vehicle, with the shell becoming almost completely un-stressed, so no worries about whether the shell is up to the power, or having to worry about rust if you're not fortunate enough to have a plastic Mini in your garage ( )
Obviously that all costs and everyone has to weight that up, but I just thought I should throw that out there for consideration. Please don't misunderstand me, I know thats a fairly one-sided post, i just haven't gone over the stuff that has been mentioned on this and other threads. I think the Pro-Motive kit is fantastic and I have considered it as an option, the above is just something I don't think has been highlighted in any comparisons.
#26
Posted 06 November 2008 - 11:02 PM
if promotive do rwd i think itll be done
i have a very poor wage so cheaper the better for me, main reason i want to do conversion is because fuel consumption compared with highly tuned a series and the noise i love bikes
#27
Posted 06 November 2008 - 11:05 PM
This is something that doesn't really get mentioned when people compare the Pro-Motive kit with the 'other' bike engine conversions that are available, so I'm just going to add it in case it's something you've not considered.
If you go Z-Car you pay more money, but you do get a full roll cage, so, assuming you're suitably bucket-seated and harnessed in, you will be safer in an accident. Given what you're doing to the cars any accident is likely to be more serious, so it's something to consider. For me it's the deal breaker/maker, because I'd feel a lot safer with all that extra metal between me and the outside world, plus it looks cool!
I know you can do all that with the Pro-Motive separately, but the Z-Cars race kit also gives you what effectively becomes a space-frame vehicle, with the shell becoming almost completely un-stressed, so no worries about whether the shell is up to the power, or having to worry about rust if you're not fortunate enough to have a plastic Mini in your garage ( )
Obviously that all costs and everyone has to weight that up, but I just thought I should throw that out there for consideration. Please don't misunderstand me, I know thats a fairly one-sided post, i just haven't gone over the stuff that has been mentioned on this and other threads. I think the Pro-Motive kit is fantastic and I have considered it as an option, the above is just something I don't think has been highlighted in any comparisons.
I didnt think we were doing comparisons
#28
Posted 06 November 2008 - 11:21 PM
if slipper
is anybody on the 4 pin diff, if so whats it like???
on pro mo site now it makes me say ohhhhh hmmmmmmmmm ahhh yes and things like that
i so want to do this conversion
anybody know of the differences in weight between one of these fully built subframes brakes and engine the lot against and a series one
thanks
jack
also what shafts are used on everybodys conversion it says it standard length mini shafts does that mean you run standard mini shafts???
Edited by just_jack, 06 November 2008 - 11:23 PM.
#29
Posted 06 November 2008 - 11:23 PM
I didnt think we were doing comparisons
Is that not the done thing?
#30
Posted 07 November 2008 - 12:12 AM
I didnt think we were doing comparisons
Is that not the done thing?
the conversions are two entirely different packages - no real comparison to make. you go with what you want to achieve and what you can afford, and what you want to live with. In my instance the Z cars option was a complete non-starter because i didn't want to cut half my car out so I cant see how I can make a comparison ??
they use similar engines in some way but that's about it.
My vision was a faster than A series alternative but without any major body modifications, and I think that's exactly what I got.
no slipper clutch on mine - basky tried one but changed his mind, mine works just fine.
I think alex has the 4 pin diff - cant be sure.
weight wise cant be precise but 2 people can pick up an R1 engine, gearbox with all the ancillaries with total ease, If i wasnt so lazy I'd probably be able to lift it on my own - you certainly cant do that with an a-series. Me Alex and his busted wrist proved that just a couple of nights ago, and in hindsight when i bought the engine originally I had to lift it out the boot of the car and carry it into the garage on my own - the wife isnt big on helping
you use the totally standard mini drive shafts and inner and outer CV joints - you just swap the drive shafts from one side to the other.
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