23 replies to this topic

[nicksuth]

It has lowered spax adjustable shocks fitted by previous owner.

So i guess that could explain it! How do i correct it with it's current suspension set up?

The lowered Spax Shockers won't make any difference to the ride height. If HiLos or AdjustaRides have been fitted or the suspension rubbers are gone (perished/spongy/flat) it will be lower, or some people used to lower them by maching a bit of the trumpet, ratio is 3/1 (10mm off the trumpet = 30mm lower ride height. Doing this pushes out the bottom of the wheel = negative camber!!! You can get it back to right ride height with some spacers between the knuckle joint and suspension trumpet? I would suggest new rubber suspension units and Hilo's, it's what the adjustable spax shocjers deserve!!!
PS - I did this to mine and it's som much easier to adjust the ride stiffness and ride height?

[icklemini]

I'm well impressed with your observation skills if you can see the set up from that tiny little Avitar picture????

PS - Any thoughts on Sunday morning yyet??

I read the original description - not looked at the pic!

sunday morning poss - but maybe sat pm better... will have abetter idea tomorrow..

[Minitrio]

Can you recommend which rubber suspension units, please.

Thanx

[nicksuth]

You're probably better off going for one of the kits which includes, Cone Ruber Suspension Units, HiLo's, Knuckle Joints and Shockers. If you talk to Simon at MiniSpares (he's a TMF member) he can probably do you a deal (i.e. withouit the shockers)? Join TMF for a Tenner and get 7.5% off all purchases from MS and other Mini places?

http://www.minispare...ty=pb&pid=34436

Send PM to Simon or email him at [email protected]

[munnracing]

thats nothing lol new tyres every month if im running a008's due to neg camber and to much tourque

Edited by munnracing, 31 October 2008 - 12:15 AM.

[Ethel]

Wheel toe:

So that the wheels run parallel they are deliberately set off parallel at rest to allow for the taking up of slack when driven by the engine. Imagine spinning a wheel in an electric drill and what would happen if you touched the wheel on the floor - it would drive itself in an arc around the pivot: your arm. Your front wheels are toed out, similarly, as the wheels will drive themselves forwards compressing the rubbers in the tie rods and bottom arm and stretching the joints in the steering rack. There are various factors that can alter how much toe out is needed. loose or soft suspension & steering bushes and/or joints , bent or otherwise wrong length tie & track rods. If your wheels have an uneven offset (more tread to one side of the pivot point than the other) then that too will cause the wheel to drag.

If you Google: Caster, Camber, Kingpin incline.... I'm sure you'll get some worthwhile reading. Just replacing your cones won't guarantee a fix, it may help if you have excessive camber. First eliminate any excessive play in the subframe, suspension and steering then you can set it up, but don't assume standard wheel toe figures will be correct if you have different wheel offsets, etc. to standard.

[1275 SPRITE]

get tracking done. cheeper than tyres every 6 months

Tracking cant be changed, its the distance between both front wheels.
Wheel alignment is what needs to be checked. It should be done at a proper tyre company that can do a full 4 wheel alignment. 2 wheel alignment is useless if the front wheels aren't true to the rear wheels.

[icklemini]

Tracking cant be changed, its the distance between both front wheels.

'TRACK' is the distance beween the the wheels
(and wheelbase the distance between front and rear wheels)

It should be done at a proper tyre company

hmmm! lol

2 wheel alignment is useless if the front wheels aren't true to the rear wheels.

Indeed: if the front wheel alignment is not done with reference to the rears then the thrust line of the rear will cause the car to pull or resut in the steering wheel being off centre.

[day101]

this is cambre of the wheel when its wearing like that