7 replies to this topic

[davidward89]

Hi there,

As we are entering winter, I notice a difference in how the car performs and require the choke out longer. A friend has suggested that to help my car during the cold months, the air filter or carburettor would benefit from having a feed of hot air. I'm not really sure what I need to do to achieve this, or if it will make much difference,

Any help would or advice would be great

David

[taffy1967]

They should be getting a feed of hot air off the manifold anyway.

Before I fitted a cone type K&N filter, there was a small metal vent/box that directed the heat off the manifold towards my carb/air filter.

I just removed that once the K&N got fitted and to be honest it hasn't caused any problems in the cold.

Edited by taffy1967, 18 November 2008 - 08:40 PM.

[v21ash]

Engines run better on cold air, more so with forced induction. If you have a K&N type air filter then you may need to direct some warm air to it when the weather gets really cold.
I had an AX GT that had a K&N on it, in the winter the filter and carb used to ice up and reduce the air flow causing the engine to struggle under load, i tie-wrapped two peices of flexi tubing from my exhaust and direct them to the filter so it would suck warm air off the exhaust and this cured the problem, when the weather warmed up i took them out.

[taffy1967]

Engines run better on cold air, more so with forced induction. If you have a K&N type air filter then you may need to direct some warm air to it when the weather gets really cold.
I had an AX GT that had a K&N on it, in the winter the filter and carb used to ice up and reduce the air flow causing the engine to struggle under load, i tie-wrapped two peices of flexi tubing from my exhaust and direct them to the filter so it would suck warm air off the exhaust and this cured the problem, when the weather warmed up i took them out.

I might do the same if I have to, but so far it's been fine.

With the standard air filter box in place as on 'davidward89' Mini, I can't see it being a problem either?

[skier]

Engines run better on cold air, more so with forced induction. If you have a K&N type air filter then you may need to direct some warm air to it when the weather gets really cold.
I had an AX GT that had a K&N on it, in the winter the filter and carb used to ice up and reduce the air flow causing the engine to struggle under load, i tie-wrapped two peices of flexi tubing from my exhaust and direct them to the filter so it would suck warm air off the exhaust and this cured the problem, when the weather warmed up i took them out.

Sorry to jump-in on this thread, but I'm having a problem with my Mini that sounds related to this.

I've got an '89 City with stage 1 kit that was running sweet as a nut until the weather got really cold (i.e. ice scraping weather).

With full choke he starts fine, but sounds like he's only running on 3 cylinders. After a while the engine cuts out unless I constantly rev it. When the engines hot, it runs smooth again. Thing is, because it's been running *rubbish* I've been having the choke out longer and when I came to change the plugs noticed they were black. Obviously I've been running rich as I assumed the poor running was due to too lean a mixture.

A local mechanic reckoned it could be because of my cone filter... as there's no warm air feed...

Have you guys got any thoughts?

Appreciate the help

[taffy1967]

I'd be more inclined to check/renew the electrics first, as your Mini may need new spark plugs (NGK are best), ht leads, dizzy cap, rotor arm, contact breaker points and condenser.

Has it been serviced recently too?

And did you get it set up on a rolling road after you added the cone filter?

It's the only way to get it tuned properly, especially after fitting a stage one kit.

Edited by taffy1967, 01 December 2008 - 09:40 PM.

[skier]

I'd be more inclined to check/renew the electrics first, as your Mini may need new spark plugs (NGK are best), ht leads, dizzy cap, rotor arm, contact breaker points and condenser.

Has it been serviced recently too?

And did you get it set up on a rolling road after you added the cone filter?

It's the only way to get it tuned properly, especially after fitting a stage one kit.

Hi Taffy,

The car has had a full service two months ago. Had new plugs, points, leads and dizzy cap (although I'm not sure about a new condenser - wasn't mentioned, and no new rotor arm). After I had the stage 1 kit fitted it was fully set-up on a rolling road and put out 47.7 BHP at the flywheel, which was back in August.

It definitely runs fine when hot, but really struggles when cold - only running on three cylinders and cutting out when idling.

If I swap back to the original filter and housing will it need setting-up again on a rolling road or will it be ok as is?

[taffy1967]

I'd be more inclined to check/renew the electrics first, as your Mini may need new spark plugs (NGK are best), ht leads, dizzy cap, rotor arm, contact breaker points and condenser.

Has it been serviced recently too?

And did you get it set up on a rolling road after you added the cone filter?

It's the only way to get it tuned properly, especially after fitting a stage one kit.

Hi Taffy,

The car has had a full service two months ago. Had new plugs, points, leads and dizzy cap (although I'm not sure about a new condenser - wasn't mentioned, and no new rotor arm). After I had the stage 1 kit fitted it was fully set-up on a rolling road and put out 47.7 BHP at the flywheel, which was back in August.

It definitely runs fine when hot, but really struggles when cold - only running on three cylinders and cutting out when idling.

If I swap back to the original filter and housing will it need setting-up again on a rolling road or will it be ok as is?

If you swap it back to the original filter, you'll need to fit a slightly leaner needle in the carb, as well as getting it set up on the rollers again.

As you don't know whether the condenser and rotor arm were replaced, then I'd replace them and check the contact breaker points gap again.