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10" sub... need an enclosure


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#1 binge

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Posted 25 July 2005 - 09:30 PM

Ok, I bought a JBL GT4. 10" subwoofer today.
It was going cheap in Motorworld so I thaught id get it.

Now I dont want to go out and buy a sub box because. 1, They are too bloody expensive. and 2, It will just look like another Chav car with a sub box thrown in the boot...

Wouldnt mind One of those boot board extentions from Roberts. Has anybody bought one of those yet? What did you think...

In the manual for my sub it says that it should be in a 50 litre sealed enclosure. Or a 35 litre ported enclosure. And it gave me all these fancy measurements for the depth and width of the port...


are there any "Maths Geeks" out there who can sum me up a few different diameters for a 50 litre enclosure. (or around about 50)


Cheers


<|Ben|>

#2 Madmax

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Posted 25 July 2005 - 10:00 PM

ooh now your asking

well

if you use 18mm MDF, you need to be looking for something in the range of 32cm(w)x32cm(d)x55cm(h), but if your after something that isnt like a normal box then im afraid it gets much much much more complicated.

#3 binge

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Posted 25 July 2005 - 10:03 PM

I dont really mind what shape it is. aslong as it fits neatly in my boot. and look nice...

I wouldnt mind, but tis £35 for a sub box from motorworld. £35 for a few bits of wood nailed together. :w00t:

#4 philster

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Posted 25 July 2005 - 10:23 PM

I wouldnt mind, but tis £35 for a sub box from motorworld. £35 for a few bits of wood nailed together. :w00t:

Well a properly built sub box should be screwed and glued together really, you can't just throw one together and expect it to sound good.

Like madmax said use mdf or decent quality plywood 18mm (minimum), screw the box together so that everything lines up then remove each panel, glue it on every seam and then screw it back together nice and tight (so that the glue squeezes out of bith sides), i normally use a screw every 1.5"-2" to ensure a really tight and well held fit althought the glue should do most of the work, its also worth sealing all the edges inside with a decent flexible sealer (bathroom sealant it okay). I also tend to paint the whole of the inside of the box with some underseal (either spray or brush to ensure there will be no air leaks) it usually ends up a couple of mm thick by the time i've finished but i've had extremely good results this way for little extra cost.

#5 Pooky

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Posted 25 July 2005 - 10:28 PM

I'm really gonna get some more stick from Philster and MadMax for this!! :w00t: :huh:

I made my own box to go behind passenger seat out of some old flooring chipboard we had! :erm: screwed and glued then sealed the edges inside and out with silicone. Stapled some carpet to it! Hey presto!

Oh and don't mention the block of wood holding my buckets up :fear:

#6 roberts

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Posted 25 July 2005 - 11:06 PM

if your interested.......

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#7 mini_sam

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Posted 25 July 2005 - 11:08 PM

wooooow pooky, you managed a really professional job there mate!! :huh: :w00t:

#8 Madmax

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Posted 25 July 2005 - 11:14 PM

extensive research eh pooky :w00t:

nah really, if it sounds good to your ears thats all that matters i guess

#9 Pooky

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Posted 25 July 2005 - 11:16 PM

Exactly mate! :grin:

It's lot better than i how i had it in the boot with the plexiglass/cushion fluff install! :w00t:

#10 Scarface

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Posted 25 July 2005 - 11:22 PM

Go for the custom made box it will be made to the rite size for the sub to work the best it can. Id go for 18mm birch ply, are you sure that it's

50 litre sealed enclosure. Or a 35 litre ported enclosure

As normally u need more cu.ft for a ported enclosure than sealed.

#11 philster

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Posted 25 July 2005 - 11:40 PM

50 litre sealed enclosure. Or a 35 litre ported enclosure

As normally u need more cu.ft for a ported enclosure than sealed.

I was thinking that, i think its more likely to be the other way around.

#12 Karl

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Posted 26 July 2005 - 10:59 AM

to be honest the mini boot acts as a pretty damn good sealed box on its own. I would go with the one Roberts is selling, looks a good idea.

#13 philster

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Posted 26 July 2005 - 12:19 PM

Yes but that would only work if the sub was mounted free air and fired straight into the cabin, to get the best from your sub and to avoid damaging it it needs to be in an enclosure if the recommended volume,

it costs nothing to do things properly so if you are going to build one it may aswell be right for the job. I've rushed things in the past and thought it will do and its always come back to haunt me.

#14 binge

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Posted 26 July 2005 - 11:00 PM

Ok, well after making a PLY wood template of a part of my boot board and carpeting it. I mounted the sub today. its only in there for now as I need to enclose it. I cant even hear it at all at the moment. The 6X9s are kicking out more bass than the sub is...
I think I need to make a fiberglass enclosure of the right hand wing, then affix it to the back of the board the sub is mounted on... So I will give that a go tomorrow...

my plan is to do this...

Make a wire mesh mould of the inside of the wing (Behind the sub mounting)
Take it out of the car, and papier mashe it from the inside...
Then ive been told about this "Paint on fiberglass" which i will just line it up with until its ridged...
Then somehow I will fix it onto the board the sub is mounted on, and slot it back into the car. :w00t:
Now will people please pick holes in my idea.! :tongue:

Oh, and before someone says "you cant have speakers on the shelf and a sub in the boot"...
I couldnt really give a flying f***. :tongue:
Its a cheapo 200 watt system running a 10" sub, Its hardly going to do Damage... (well I hope not anyway...)

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#15 Pooky

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Posted 26 July 2005 - 11:03 PM

is that where you keep your haynes?

i was the same as you mate when i had my sub in the boot it sounded like someone banging a cardboard box! I'm sure it'll sound better with it sealed in fibreglass!

Did you see the pic of my sub where yours is binge? i wanted to do the same thing as you!


Have you got pins on your boot? What are those bits in the corner of you boot hole? near where the cable attatches? :w00t:




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