22 replies to this topic

[In-a-mini]

Sorry i wasn't talking about the gap i was talking about the amount of metal. The door appeture is a different size the early one is shorter ie more metal between the gutter and the door top than a later internal hinge car where the distance down from the guttor to the door top is smaller. if i can in the light tomorrow i will get two pics to show comparison.

Edit just found two of my pics i could use. top one is of an estate internal hinge door the lower of my mini van.

Edited by In-a-mini, 20 January 2009 - 08:43 PM.

[Scotauto]

ok I think I know what you mean!!! I've never really checked it though. I've just made it fit by modifying the necessary bits Must have a look tommorow and check it out in the different door frames.

Edited by Scotauto, 20 January 2009 - 08:51 PM.

[dave21478]

I dont see that really being a problem if I try this. As long as the sloping section of the frame is the same angle, then the height doesnt matter. The wind-up window will just not wind up the full amount when its closed.
I was going to start restoring my doors at the end of the week, so I will have a proper look at this and let you know whats what.

[Dan]

Yes that's the easy bit. If you want to make the upper part of a later door fit an early aperture all you have to do is drill the top hoop away from its welds where it joins the door shell and weld it back in place lower down, the actual top is the same shape. It's the lower part of the door that's a dramatically different shape and that's where you need to swap the door frame pressing. Although the easiest way is probably to swap the whole pressing rather than graft the two together.

Edited by Dan, 21 January 2009 - 10:56 AM.

[superman]

oh my, what have i started?

[Scotauto]

Ok I just got the info about the Australian doors from my mate who you've guessed is.........australian and a car nut. Almost all australian minis were with external hinges and winding windows this was because the doors had to have side impact bars. The lock mechanism was also the later type usually used on internal hinged doors. Just thought I'd let people know.

[dave21478]

Im only running a month late, but finally got round to this!

I have a bare old van door and an old "wind-up" door to experiment on before trying this with my "good" doors. A bit of grinder and welder action revealed that its actually very simple indeed to fit the wind-up windows to an early door.

Feeling all smug with myself, and about to start chopping the good doors, I then realised a fundamental problem - the van door handle mechanism crosses the cavity of the door, preventing the glass from dropping. Bummer. I briefly looked into changing to later style door handles and latch mechanisms on the van doors, but it all starts getting very complicated. I will measure up finally tomorrow, but it looks like its a no-go, with not enough space to mount the modern latch to the door and the striker loop to the shell.

This has hacked me off somewhat, as I HATE sliding windows, so I think tomorrow will be spent scrap-yard diving to see if I can find an alternaive door latch and handle mechanism. My brother in law reckons 2cv stuff might be up to the job.

Edited by dave21478, 23 February 2009 - 10:07 PM.

[strudel]

This may throw some light onto the door latch situation. I wish to do roll down windows in my van as well. This fellow added Audi door handles and Suzuki mechanisms. He has no intention of putting in roll up windows but this concept may work with the roll down mechanism. As far as attaching the rods to activate the door mechanism they could be extended to the bottom of the door, then a lever and up to the inside opener. I may have asked this in a PM but do you have any pictures whatsoever of the work you actually did? If so, anything would be helpful. My problem is sourcing an inner door skin but should be able to build something that would work to hold a window mechanism. JS