20 replies to this topic

[NovaNath]

Not sue if this is the right section, but anyhoo...

After a fallow 18 months i'm starting to get back into my mini project. It's a bit cold out to be welding, so i've been designing stuff instead.

So my rear beam design is as follows:


By NovaNath


3x 1.5" box Ali 6082 extrusion, 1/8" thick
2x1" x1/8 brackets with webs, all welded to the box section
Brackets mounted so that the axis of rotation is parallel to the box sec and the grond (no toe/camber)
Inbored bracket has oversize hole to allow radius arm spindle to be inserted(ooh-er)/removed, and top-hat washer (red) to centralise spindle in bracket.

Now my 'clever' idea is that the top-hat washer can be drilled eccentrically to allow toe in/camber setting (there's a pin to locate the washer and stop it rotating.
I know i'll need a new set of washers for every different setting that i try, but i can 'do the math' to work out the dimensions.

What i was wondering, is, will having the adjustment on the inboard bracket have an impact on the placement of the wheel in the arch?

Anyway, let me know what you think
Cheers
Nathan

[bebbinator]

i like it looks a lot stronger than the huddersfield one

[ANON]

looks almost identical to the TDK beam

[1380rich]

looks just like the mini spares alloy beam, good job

rich

[Ethel]

Made mine out of a length of 40x80 mild steel tube. I'd say it would be better if it was 30mm and possibly a little longer than the 4ft between outer brackets. But then it is on a plaggy car and not an actual Mini and the shocker mounts seem to locate well even if a fraction more wheel clearance would be nice (175/13 tyres). I'm quite proud of my Parabolic inner handbrake sector, though I'm sure you could use standard outer one's as effectively. I made the outer bracket removable and hid the nuts inside the end of the beam.

[icklemini]

have the adjustmant on the outside (rather than the inside) - one reason is that its far easier to setup a car if you can get to the adjustment points without having to raise it!

[Ethel]

Having had another look...

Not sure the top hat is a good idea as you'd need to stop it turning with the arm. I can't see from your screen grab if you have already, but some webs on at least one arm mounting per side would be good to stop them distorting under sideways loads.

[Wil_h]

Don't forget you need additional mounting points along the heal board.

[NovaNath]

The similarity to the Mini Spares beam is 'because i used pics of their design as a starting point.

I knew i was missing something with not having the outer brackets adjustable. It's been so long since the car was in one piece i thought they would be awquard to get to. With the set up you suggest, i would be able to just take the weight of the car with the jack and swap the eccentric washers to change the toe/camber.

The brackets have a little stud that sticks out and the washer a hole to locate on this, so this should fix the washer in position.
The brackets do have webs to make them more rigid, but i may double up on thickness to make them stonger, and reinforce the box section also.
This pic may show it better.


Gonna cap the ends, and weld in some tubes to allow bolting through to the heel board as suggested.
Will weld some sheet into the floorpan cut-out too

[eden7842]

i don't know whether this is a silly question but could you make a beam, by cutting the back off a subframe and
reinforcing wats left with some plates/ braces?

if that makes any sence

[rozzer1275]

[quote name='eden7842' date='Feb 2 2009, 07:05 PM' post='1325411']
i don't know whether this is a silly question but could you make a beam, by cutting the back off a subframe and
reinforcing wats left with some plates/ braces?

if that makes any sence

yep does to me (if the old sub it not rusted to hell), then fit coil overs.
but it is real nice to have a home made ally one.

[eden7842]

good i think i may give that one a go as the back half of mine is bout shot!

[NovaNath]

i don't know whether this is a silly question but could you make a beam, by cutting the back off a subframe and
reinforcing wats left with some plates/ braces?

if that makes any sence

Makes sence to me, and i think people have done it too! Why not if you've got steel whelding gear.
An ali one shouldn't rust though.. not in the conventional sence anyway. Also, i think should be lighter.

[eden7842]

yeah i agree there thats if u have the skill to alloy weld.

i hear its quite difficult

[icklemini]

would be able to just take the weight of the car with the jack and swap the eccentric washers to change the toe/camber.

then you have to lower the car mess around with settling it again, etc... all adds unnecessary time... where as adjusting from the outside means you can adjust as necessary without having to lift the car or settle it back down again after... Just my humble opinion...