20 replies to this topic

[jwb_moto]

what bout using something like These theyre used on kart chassis for castor camber. theyre expensive on that website but quite cheap on ebay. They have a retaining grub screw that sists in one of the holes to stop it from spinning/adjusting the setting

They even do a pronged to for adjustment so you'd just need to take the weight off, remove the grub screw, adjst and re tighten.

I know a very good alloy welder who makes lorry bodies for a living who could knock these no trouble.

[NovaNath]

would be able to just take the weight of the car with the jack and swap the eccentric washers to change the toe/camber.

then you have to lower the car mess around with settling it again, etc... all adds unnecessary time... where as adjusting from the outside means you can adjust as necessary without having to lift the car or settle it back down again after... Just my humble opinion...

I was agreeing with you mate! I'm just not very clear somtimes.
With the adjustable brackets on the outside as you suggest, i would have to take the weight of the car to remove the eccentric bush/washer and swap in a different offset one (it's this that would change the settings).

I know it makes adjustment a little awquard, but i like the way that the setting: would be retained if you took the radius arms off, can't be accidentally altered, are exactly determinable. For me, the +'s outweigh the -'s

[NovaNath]

what bout using something like These theyre used on kart chassis for castor camber. theyre expensive on that website but quite cheap on ebay. They have a retaining grub screw that sists in one of the holes to stop it from spinning/adjusting the setting

They even do a pronged to for adjustment so you'd just need to take the weight off, remove the grub screw, adjst and re tighten.

I know a very good alloy welder who makes lorry bodies for a living who could knock these no trouble.

Yeah, it's basically the same principal!
I was gonna keep each pair to just one setting to prevent me getting confused. It would be quick, easy and cheap enough for me to just turn up the blanks and do the drilling at work.

I'm gonna tig it up myself, ta

[mini1.3]

just looked on minispares because im quite intriged that these could be made didnt no anytihnk aboutt hem they seem quite expensive on minispares but if someone could build them cheap and sell them i might be interested in one

[jwb_moto]

I dont suppose you have the drawings for the beam in CAD do you?

I wouldn't mind having a go at making one

[Rosslin Racing]

you can hack the subframe down to just the rear bar but its heavy, I cut of the corners welded all the seams drilled four holes and bolted the whole corner to the heel board, I triangulated the mounting points and moved every thing out and back a 1 inch its all still fitted after 4 years