Bleeding Brakes
Started by
RetroRay
, Feb 10 2009 10:57 PM
9 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 10 February 2009 - 10:57 PM
Austin 998cc 1978 - 4 pots on the front and standard drums on the back
Right sounds stupid but this is one thing i dont want to mess up
so whats the best way to go about this ?
Any dos and donts ?
Taaa
Right sounds stupid but this is one thing i dont want to mess up
so whats the best way to go about this ?
Any dos and donts ?
Taaa
#2
Posted 10 February 2009 - 11:10 PM
What type of 4 pots (KAD, Metro, other)?
#3
Posted 10 February 2009 - 11:19 PM
Get yourself (or borrow) a Gunson EEZIBLEED, it will make life so much easier and you can then complete the bleeding on your own (if you're Billy Nomates!!).
Order of bleeding is NSR > OSR > NSF > OSF (i.e. starting at the nipple furthest away from the master cylinder).
Be prepared to bleed a couple of litres or more of fluid through if you want to fully purge the old fluid.
Order of bleeding is NSR > OSR > NSF > OSF (i.e. starting at the nipple furthest away from the master cylinder).
Be prepared to bleed a couple of litres or more of fluid through if you want to fully purge the old fluid.
#4
Posted 10 February 2009 - 11:25 PM
Nice one cheers Nick .... there metro 4 pots ... no idea where the bleed nipple is on them things as theres a few ... ive got a helper and that 2 quid bit of tube with the slit in so should be ok
I have bled my clubbys brakes but havent driven it yet so i have a vague idea
Just want to be sure for certain
Taa
I have bled my clubbys brakes but havent driven it yet so i have a vague idea
Just want to be sure for certain
Taa
Edited by Minimania, 10 February 2009 - 11:26 PM.
#5
Posted 10 February 2009 - 11:34 PM
Okay, rear brakes being 1 x nipple per cylinder should be a doddle!
The 4 Pots have 3 x nipples per caliper. When bleeding the 4 Pots, bleed the 2 x lower nipples first and at the same time, (you will need 2 x bits of £2 tube with slits in and 2 x spanners), then tighten them up and do the top 1 x nipple last. If you're starting with a new set up (i.e. "Dry") you may have to alternate bottom x 2 and top x 1 a few times to make sure all air is out.
Take my advice though and get an EEZIBLEED as it will need a lot of pedal action and your "helper" will end up being "up" when you want him to be "down" and "down" when you want him to be "up".
The 4 Pots have 3 x nipples per caliper. When bleeding the 4 Pots, bleed the 2 x lower nipples first and at the same time, (you will need 2 x bits of £2 tube with slits in and 2 x spanners), then tighten them up and do the top 1 x nipple last. If you're starting with a new set up (i.e. "Dry") you may have to alternate bottom x 2 and top x 1 a few times to make sure all air is out.
Take my advice though and get an EEZIBLEED as it will need a lot of pedal action and your "helper" will end up being "up" when you want him to be "down" and "down" when you want him to be "up".
#6
Posted 10 February 2009 - 11:40 PM
Wheels shouldnt need to come off should they ? as i remember a nipple being on the wheel side of the caliper
Other than taking it easy testing them what is the best way to make sure they work ?
Other than taking it easy testing them what is the best way to make sure they work ?
#7
Posted 11 February 2009 - 12:01 AM
Rear wheels can stay on but you will need to remove front wheels (see pic) otherwise its very difficult!!
Also, make sure you have the calipers on the right hubs (you can get them on wrong side = upsidedown), single nipple should be pointing in towards car and at the top.



[attachment=80077:Drive_Flange_Lugs.jpg]
Also, make sure you have the calipers on the right hubs (you can get them on wrong side = upsidedown), single nipple should be pointing in towards car and at the top.



[attachment=80077:Drive_Flange_Lugs.jpg]
#8
Posted 11 February 2009 - 12:43 AM
Just a quick one, NEVER use anything other than a ring spanner on brake nipple! the number of mates who have rounded the nipple off by using spanners, wrentchs and adjustables is unbelivable... they are quite soft so they can be easily removed if they get damaged but you get stuck with a jammed open bleed valve and your in trouble (also retightening with mole grips i you do round off is also quite a bad Idea ans they crush the valve and let fluid out and air in, again mates have found this one out). By the way using a socket isn't mentioned because how do tighten the nut back up without removing the bleed tube from the valve?
Bishop M.
Bishop M.
#9
Posted 11 February 2009 - 12:56 AM
#10
Posted 11 February 2009 - 03:40 AM
a semi ring spanner???
Bishop M.
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