
Only Running On Full Choke
#16
Posted 11 February 2009 - 05:48 PM
#17
Posted 11 February 2009 - 05:52 PM

#18
Posted 11 February 2009 - 06:00 PM

#19
Posted 11 February 2009 - 06:01 PM
#20
Posted 12 February 2009 - 01:43 AM
Does all that sound correct?
Maybe you'll find an open breather line/connection that is responsible for this.
Tell us a bit more about what you did when cleaning the carb. On the HS series carbs there are a number of adjustments that MUST be done when you service them. Presumably you removed some parts to clean this carb and those parts have to be adjusted when installed. Basically, you will need to set the float level, set the needle flush with the bottom of the carb piston, center the jet, and set the jet's initial height so it is two turns down from flush with the bridge inside the carb. Most of these adjustments must be made with the linkages (especially the choke linkage) disconnected and loose. If you didn't make these initial adjustments when you rebuilt the carb (or when you recently installed it) there's no reason to think the settings are anywhere close. Haynes has a carb book for the Weber, SU, and Stromberg carbs that's a good reference for tuning. Burlen publishes a good book on this also. However, most of the basic adjustments of the HS series carbs are fairly well presented in the basic Haynes service manual... at least the Haynes for the Mk1/2 cars.
#21
Posted 12 February 2009 - 10:43 AM
#22
Posted 12 February 2009 - 10:57 AM
#23
Posted 12 February 2009 - 01:26 PM
when i took the carb apart i didnt strip the jet out, only took float bowl lid off & cleaned inside float bowl, & the same with the dash pot. there is oil in dash pot also. any other ideas?
Well, since this carb is not really known to you and it has not been completely taken apart, I'd assume it has deposits on the needle and in the jet and its flexible tube. You should also assume once you clean those areas that the carb will need adjusting from scratch.
Since you should assume the carb is not adjusted and set correctly... the easiest thing would be to get a can or two of spray carb cleaner and take the carb apart to the point that you can clean out the inside of the jet (and it's flexible tube) along with cleaning the carb needle itself. Once you are 100% sure that fuel can flow into/through the jet, go through the basic mechanical carb adjustments that follow a rebuild.
#24
Posted 12 February 2009 - 09:42 PM
#25
Posted 12 February 2009 - 10:03 PM
#26
Posted 15 February 2009 - 08:40 PM
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users