27 replies to this topic

[yorkshirechris]

Cheers for the info the Minispares website shows two different switches, there's one which is pre-'76, and another which says it is for '76-on, and it floor mounted? I guess I will just have to have a look at mine and see what type it is. Those diagrams will come in handy.

[Wakey-Dan]

Holy thread revival batman. Im replacing my brake switch as the connectors have come loose on mine. How do i take the old one off? Do i have to undo the nut beind first or can i just screw/turn the switch off?

[Wakey-Dan]

Its the later type switch

[tiger99]

You should unscrew the nut, and remove the switch, with its adjusting bracket, complete, so you can easily remove it from the bracket. Otherwise the nut that fixes the switch itself is well-nigh impossible to reach.

 

The first link shows the switch bracket, item 22:

 

http://www.somerford...page=page&id=58

 

The second link shows the switch, item 83, and the nut holding it to the bracket, item 84.

 

http://www.somerford...page=page&id=87

[carmo]

Glad I came across this post from DK Lawson as I have the hydraulically actuated switch that has failed and I didn't know where to look for it  until now. By the way can the hydraulic switch be repaired, other wise I will have to wait until Monday to get one.

[Spider]

Glad I came across this post from DK Lawson as I have the hydraulically actuated switch that has failed and I didn't know where to look for it  until now. By the way can the hydraulic switch be repaired, other wise I will have to wait until Monday to get one.

 

Fit a Hella Brand one, the others that seem to be available these days don't last too well.

 

Hella P/N 4565.

[tiger99]

No, the hydraulic switch can not be repaired, and bodging it would be extremely dangerous.

[carmo]

Thanks Moke Spider & tiger99..new switch on its way. 

 

Help if you can, the moke  indicator control arm bulb (new) is not working but the indicators front and back are working fine. I can only find two fuses and both ok, meter tested.

 

Thanks again.

 

Sean

[AeroNotix]

Having replaced mine today I would recommend loosening 20/21 so 19 can come free making it much easier to tighten up the nut on the back of 19 where the new switch attaches: https://www.minispor...s-and-cylinders

Edited by AeroNotix, 13 September 2016 - 02:07 PM.

[Spider]

Thanks Moke Spider & tiger99..new switch on its way. 

 

Help if you can, the moke  indicator control arm bulb (new) is not working but the indicators front and back are working fine. I can only find two fuses and both ok, meter tested.

 

Thanks again.

 

Sean

 

The Repeater  Lamp on the end of the Switch doesn't work? 

 

It's been a long while since I played around with one of these, but first place I'd be inclined to look is the Flasher Can. It needs to be a 3 Pin type and check the labelling of the Pins, they should be X (or B), P and L. If they are numbered, I'd be suspect that it's the wrong can.

 

With the Indicators on (either side), check you are getting 12V (puling in time with the Indicators) on Terminal P, that's the one that powers the Repeater Lamp. If that doesn't work, it's the Can, if it does, then it's in the wiring somewhere, but I'd probably then check there's an Earth to the Repeater.

[Podman]

Can I revive a revived thread? I take it the earlier pedalbox did t have the slots, hence the hydraulic switch? ☹️

[Spider]

Can I revive a revived thread? I take it the earlier pedalbox did t have the slots, hence the hydraulic switch? ☹️

 

The cars built with Single Circuit Brakes had a Hydraulic Switch. When they went to Tandem Circuit, they went to a Pedal mounted Switch.

[Podman]

Can I revive a revived thread? I take it the earlier pedalbox did t have the slots, hence the hydraulic switch? ☹️

The cars built with Single Circuit Brakes had a Hydraulic Switch. When they went to Tandem Circuit, they went to a Pedal mounted Switch.