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No Bypass & No Holes In The Thermostat


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#1 fishey798

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Posted 10 March 2009 - 10:20 PM

Im running a 1380 morspeed engine, with a 2 core rad, bypass hose removed and blocked and holes drilled in the thermostat.
Problem is that it doesnt get up to temperature, usually runing just above the blue on the temperature gauage.
Someone suggested that i should just replace the thermostat with a standard one and leave the bypass blocked? Surely this will cause problems?
Is it just best to re fit the bypass and standard thermostat?

Edited by fishey798, 10 March 2009 - 10:28 PM.


#2 HARBER07

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Posted 10 March 2009 - 10:21 PM

:w00t: lol

#3 stormintrooper

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Posted 10 March 2009 - 10:26 PM

yes

#4 fishey798

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Posted 10 March 2009 - 10:28 PM

Sorry hit the enter button by mistake!!

#5 stormintrooper

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Posted 10 March 2009 - 10:38 PM

by the way my answer isnt a proper one was just me bein cheeky to ya post only saying no :w00t:

#6 Guess-Works.com

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Posted 10 March 2009 - 11:11 PM

really depends how many holes you have drilled... I usually recon on 3 done by a panel hole punch, then again I don't run a thermostat, so my temp gauge rarely moves at all...

#7 zebidee

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Posted 10 March 2009 - 11:19 PM

Theres an article by Keith Calver on Minispares which includes a wee bit on this. Basically he says:
"Blank off the troublesome by-pass hose then fit a thermostat that has had six or eight eighth-inch holes drilled around the periphery. These holes allow water to circulate before the engine is up to temperature and the thermostat opens."

#8 mini_mad69

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 01:54 AM

I drilled 6 holes in my thermostat and the thing never got up to temp. Maybe start a little less holes and work up if it gets warm.

#9 mike.

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 02:01 AM

Well when you think about the amount of flow your trying to recreate after blanking the bypass its not alot. The bypass hose is only about 10-12mm in diametre so really 3 or 4 4mm holes around the thermostat should be fine. Thats what i'm going to put in mine anyway.

Edited by minimadmike, 11 March 2009 - 02:02 AM.


#10 Ethel

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 02:13 AM

Firstly just because the gauge doesn't move far doesn't mean the engine hasn't warmed up. Feel the radiator or top hose as soon as the needle stop climbing if it gets warm then the thermostat has opened. The temp gauge is best looked on just as an indicator of temperature change - it will stop climbing when the thermostat opens on a healthy engine. you need only worry if it goes higher without an obvious reason, like thrashing up a big hill. If it takes forever to climb to its usual position you may have over done the holes or the stat could be stuck open.

The bypass uses 1/2" hose so the pipe it fits on is even smaller. Say got arguments sake there's a 10mm passage through the bypass just 4 holes of 5mm. or 10ish 1/8th inch ones will have the same area.

#11 syholl

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 07:09 AM

I found that 3 x 3mm holes did the job perfectly. I had read about having loads of holes drilled in one, but when i tried this i had the same problem as you. Especially in the winter time when it wouldn't budge at all....

Running an engine cold all the time is really bad for it too....!

#12 fishey798

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 10:37 PM

Running an engine cold all the time is really bad for it too....!


This i what i thought, i think i may just reduce the amount of holes, although i think i only have 2 smallish ones at the moment!

#13 adcyork

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 11:38 PM

really depends how many holes you have drilled... I usually recon on 3 done by a panel hole punch, then again I don't run a thermostat, so my temp gauge rarely moves at all...


Why aren't you running a thermostat john?

#14 tedmcedd

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Posted 11 March 2009 - 11:54 PM

deffinately drill the holes... i dont have any in mine as i didnt know i had to... my head gasked has gone in that corner and i constantly pi55 oil out everywhere... lol

#15 Big_Adam

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Posted 12 March 2009 - 12:46 AM

I have the blocked bypass with holes in the thermostat.

I just use the oil pressure gauge to tell when the engines warm.

60+ = Cold

40= Warm ish.

30 or less = Warm to OH MY GOD!




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