I used to work at jag but cannot explain the process very well, I just used to machine the parts after pu lacquer.
Guide of line below.
http://homeguides.sf...neer-99516.html
1
Sand the veneer by hand with 220-grit sandpaper, going with the grain of the wood. This removes spots of dirt and old finish that may still be on the surface. Wipe off the sanding dust with a damp rag.
2
Seal the wood grain by wiping on shellac or a 50-50 solution of polyurethane varnish and mineral spirits with a rag. Let the sealer dry, then sand the surface again by hand with 220-grit sandpaper. Wipe off the sanding dust. If you're applying a stain, it will seal the wood, so you can omit sealing with shellac or thinned polyurethane.
3
Apply a thin, wet coat of polyurethane, either by brushing or spraying. If you're brushing, deposit material onto a dry surface and brush it with even strokes into one that has already been painted. If you're spraying, move the gun steadily, keeping a uniform distance between the spray tip and the surface. Don't arc it away at the edges.
4
Pop any bubbles that appear with the tip of your paintbrush. They are more likely to appear when you're brushing, especially if you're using a waterborne finish, and you may be able to prevent them by moving your brush more slowly.
5
Let the surface dry until it is no longer sticky, then lightly sand it with 400-grit sandpaper and apply another thin coat. Don't wait more than 24 hours to recoat or the bottom layer may cure. If it does, the fresh polyurethane won't adhere properly.
6
Sand the second coat with 400-grit paper and apply a third. You seldom have to apply more than three coats of polyurethane, but some burl veneers that accept finish unevenly may require more.
7
Give the final coat between 24 to 48 hours to cure, then rub it down with 0000 steel wool. Spread polishing powder and polish the surface with a coarse rag. Finish up by spreading a coat of wax and buffing it up with a rag, if desired.
Edited by cookie4343, 24 January 2015 - 08:52 AM.
