Okay its almost certain that I shall buy that mk1 traveller in a few weeks, since it has some stuff that I want!
What I realised is that even though my main buying point was that I wanted the 3.76 diff, the gearbox of a traveller will be rather unabused, especially if its a 850cc engine!
So I thought it would be a smart thing to keep the box, clean it (no rebuilding due to lack of funds) and once my metro box goes, I'll swap in the 850 box, complete with 3.76 diff!
Problem? A+ metro engine, A series box!!
I know it can be done and I know that the main problem is the drop gears.
Can somebody please explain what needs doing to adapt the box to the engine?
Is it just a matter of using the A+ drop gears, and other than that the other box will bolt up?
Gearbox Swap
Started by
Pavel
, Mar 14 2004 07:38 PM
6 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 14 March 2004 - 07:38 PM
#2
Posted 14 March 2004 - 08:06 PM
Easy...
To use the A box on your engine, you need to use the A+ drop gears and end cover (the big ally cover that goes over them and houses the flywheel).
The biggest prob your gonna come accross tho is tryin to get the bottom drop off the box. It's done up to somat like 200 lbs!! The hard bit tho is tryin to lock the box, this is done by engagin 2 gears at once, but this in itself means takin part of the box apart...
Or you could do what I did and get someone with an air wrench to do it for you, the speed and power of the wrench loosened it off without needing to lock the box.
To use the A box on your engine, you need to use the A+ drop gears and end cover (the big ally cover that goes over them and houses the flywheel).
The biggest prob your gonna come accross tho is tryin to get the bottom drop off the box. It's done up to somat like 200 lbs!! The hard bit tho is tryin to lock the box, this is done by engagin 2 gears at once, but this in itself means takin part of the box apart...
Or you could do what I did and get someone with an air wrench to do it for you, the speed and power of the wrench loosened it off without needing to lock the box.
#3
Posted 14 March 2004 - 08:31 PM
I'll just take it to a truck wheel/tire shop. Their pneumatic drills that they use to remove wheel nuts off buses should do the trick
As long as no machining work or foreign items are required, I don't mind
As long as no machining work or foreign items are required, I don't mind
#4
Posted 15 March 2004 - 07:49 AM
Is the A+ engine you are a 1275 ?, if it is do a dummy build and turn over the engine by hand and check for the crank catching on the 'box , if it does you can grind off the bit that catches (you may not need to as the later boxes casings were standard right through the range) , I found this out the hard way !
#5
Posted 15 March 2004 - 08:23 AM
Really? DIdn't know that!
How much does it catch by?
How much does it catch by?
#6
Posted 15 March 2004 - 07:52 PM
I had to grind away about 3-5mm of metal from the box , it was easy 'because alloy is verry soft, make sure not to leave swarf in the box , like i said , i think this only occurs on the early boxes, but worth a quick check before bolting it all together and finding you have to undo it all :grin:
This happened to me 18 years ago fitting a 1300cc engine to the gearbox of my 850 mini van , luckily i tried to turn the engine before refitting into the van , i thought it was siezed i phoned my mate and he told me about the gear box mod that was needed .
This happened to me 18 years ago fitting a 1300cc engine to the gearbox of my 850 mini van , luckily i tried to turn the engine before refitting into the van , i thought it was siezed i phoned my mate and he told me about the gear box mod that was needed .
#7
Posted 15 March 2004 - 08:11 PM
Well its a mk1 traveller box so most probly ill run into the problem
I'll let you know again when the box is stripped!
I'll let you know again when the box is stripped!
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