
What Stonechip Paint.
#1
Posted 21 April 2009 - 02:55 PM
The sill and underside seem to be sprayed with a stonechip that has a rippled finish, then painted over in body colour.
I have take some of this off when I welded plates on for roll cage and would like to make it all look the same and paint over it. I have tried Hammerite Stone Chip Sheild and Hycote StoneGuard. They both give a smoothish finish and not the ripply finish I want.
Can you help.
#2
Posted 21 April 2009 - 03:04 PM
Need to replicate the original underbody protection on a 1995 mini.
The sill and underside seem to be sprayed with a stonechip that has a rippled finish, then painted over in body colour.
I have take some of this off when I welded plates on for roll cage and would like to make it all look the same and paint over it. I have tried Hammerite Stone Chip Sheild and Hycote StoneGuard. They both give a smoothish finish and not the ripply finish I want.
Can you help.
I too would really like to know what this stuff is! Come on - someone must know!!
#3
Posted 21 April 2009 - 06:12 PM
#4
Posted 21 April 2009 - 06:13 PM
#5
Posted 21 April 2009 - 06:19 PM
tetra-shutz then, ill tell the old man he wernt far off lol
#6
Posted 21 April 2009 - 06:27 PM
i uses a tetra shutz
Me too, pretty cheap and really easy to use, I've already used 1 litre of it and am about half way through my second tin lol

#7
Posted 21 April 2009 - 07:05 PM
#8
Posted 21 April 2009 - 09:22 PM
#9
Posted 21 April 2009 - 09:34 PM
is tetra shutz better than waxoil for underside of a car?
I se both lol.
#10
Posted 21 April 2009 - 09:35 PM
waxoil/tetra/hammerite or a mixture??
#11
Posted 21 April 2009 - 09:38 PM
stone chip and paint is best for concourse but tetra shuzt goes a great job
#12
Posted 21 April 2009 - 09:42 PM
...so what is the ULTIMATE underside paint job for protection of a mini??
waxoil/tetra/hammerite or a mixture??
realisticly i would have said a mixture. In the order, hamerite rust proof primer, layer of normal paint to seal it, then tetra, then cover that with a layer of normal paint, then clear waxoil, would probably be the ultimate protection
my dad was telling me about something he recomends to his clients which is basicly the same as galvanising the metal, with a spray gun, except better, and more expensive. far more expensive though. it can also be painted over and drys hard, yet flexable.
actually come to think of it, if you were useing something as expensive has house of kolors paint, they would probably come out about the same.
Edited by Burnard, 21 April 2009 - 09:42 PM.
#13
Posted 21 April 2009 - 09:52 PM
Inorganic Zinc Silicate
For the protection of blast-cleaned steel surfaces capable of withstanding temperatures of up to 540°C. Capable of curing at temperatures down to 0°C.
Example
Skid Frame and Pipework
Skid Frame & Pipeworkblast cleaned to SA 2½
1st coat: a two-pack component solvent-based inorganic zinc-rich ethyl silicate primer containing 85% zinc by weight in the dry film, a metallic zinc primer suitable for use with a wide range of high performance systems and top coats in both maintenance and new construction of bridges, tanks, pipework, offshore structures and structural steelwork
2nd coat: a low-voc, two-component high-build, high-solids surface tolerant epoxy maintenance coating providing excellent anti-corrosive protection in industrial, coastal structures, pulp and paper plants, bridges and offshore environments
3rd coat: a two-pack high-gloss acrylic finish – a high performance topcoat for existing structures and new construction where a high gloss weather resistant finish is required
#14
Posted 21 April 2009 - 10:53 PM
#15
Posted 22 April 2009 - 05:33 PM
dave
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