27 replies to this topic

[jjojjas]

Basically its a verto clutch, the motors standing in the garage and I have had the puller on for 18 hours, its level on all 3 bolts, The crank is horizontal so the C/D washers should be fine.
Iv'e heated it up 4 times, hit it with hammers, swore, then drank some tea.
Finally on "one last nip" I snapped the head of the bolt on the puller

You could say its not going well...........

Have any of you cut the collar off the crank with a grinder? I'm starting to think this may have welded itself on. I taken some stubborn ones off before, but only non-verto's.

Jas

[MRA]

This is caused by fretting of the two parts...... micro-welding of both parts together.... if its this bad then its a fair assumption that a new crank will also be needed

To help (99.9%) lapp both parts together using a fine grinding paste.

But to answer your question, I have seen someone attempt to remove a mini flywheel with the washer still in place

cutting it off with a grinder is going to be hard work and very dusty...... why are you taking the flywheel off ??

If you are stripping for a rebuild then its not really a problem, just a ball ache of a job

Edited by mra-minis.co.uk, 23 May 2009 - 02:31 PM.

[jjojjas]

This is caused by fretting of the two parts...... micro-welding of both parts together.... if its this bad then its a fair assumption that a new crank will also be needed

To help (99.9%) lapp both parts together usinf a fine grinding paste.

But to answer your question, I have seen someone attempt ot remove a mini flywheel with the washer still in place

cutting it off with a grinder is going to be hard work and very dusty...... why are you taking the flywheel off ??

If you are stripping for a rebuild then its not really a problem, just a ball ache of a job

Hoping to salvage the crank, but if its goosed then I'll just go for the full rebore when I'm at it. I'll live either way.
Taking it off as the housings full of oil. Guess the seal has gone.

[bigmotherwhale]

get a hydrualic puller? remember heating will only work if the other part is cooled at the same time otherwise its pointless, have you got access to dry ice or ln2?
that should help if applied to the crank and oxy acetelene blowtorch ect to the flange... lol

[Kam]

Get yourself another housing unit and a big pry bar and just butcher the flywheel away using the housing unit as leverage at different points, butcher, turn, butcher etc.

Note - you will probably bugger up or even distort the crank but if your doing a full rebore then it dont matter.

And yes your clutch oil seal has gone.

Edited by Kam, 24 April 2009 - 07:33 PM.

[MRA]

If its "welded" on then a hydraulic puller will damage it just the same as any other method you employ....... heat an dcooling unfortunately is only good for tight joints not for welded joints, however I guess this could just be very tight

If you are going to NEWARK this Sunday and can get your engine there then PM me and I'll bring my puller with me

[Shifty]

If its "welded" on then a hydraulic puller will damage it just the same as any other method you employ....... heat an dcooling unfortunately is only good for tight joints not for welded joints, however I guess this could just be very tight

If you are going to NEWARK this Sunday and can get your engine there then PM me and I'll bring my puller with me

This sounds like something I'd like to see on Sunday!!

Bring on the Demo!!

[Kam]

I'd still like to know how Bill Sollis got the flywheel off on the 1380 engine builder dvd as that was a bugger?

because my version goes blank for a bit then back to 'here its off!'

[Nightrain]

Can be cut off, took a mate 7.5hrs and 3 cheap angle grinders. Hydraulic puller will just rip the threads out, personally I've always thought the fretting is due to the different grade of metal used to make the collar part of the pressure plate.

[rofert]

Good luck takes time and patience and the 2 times I've had to do it buggered the end of the crank.

[Cooper-202S]

Had the same problem, rather than trash the casing , use a 14lb sledge and a piece of 2x2 through the starter motor hole.
Hit it then 1/6 -1/4 turn hit again, use only enough force to move the flywheel, if you get no movement with a reasonable half swing then stop or you may bend the crank at the main bearing and distort the bearing housing/cap the block.

If you need a new transfer case see the NOS ones on ebay there £60 quid.

Good bet the crank is a loss unfortunatly (

[Shifty]

Who was they guy who had to 30 page thread on removing his flywheel?

That may help(only if someone can remember his name!!)

[jjojjas]

oh "poo".......
I knew this rebuild was just a bit too good to be true
think I'll take the weekend off and look at it with fresh eyes next week.
Funnily enough, I was going to my in-laws this weekend just 20 mile from Newark. Not now though. Whats on at Newark? a mini show?
Guess if I have to crack the motor open I may as well do it properly............

[Kam]

if you get no movement with a reasonable half swing then stop or you may bend the crank

Thats the problem mate, your reasonable half swing will be alot different to mine!

Best bet just butcher it as the engine aint gonna like what your throwing at it already!!

[pogie]

I'd still like to know how Bill Sollis got the flywheel off on the 1380 engine builder dvd as that was a bugger?

because my version goes blank for a bit then back to 'here its off!'

Yeah, I've been wondering about that as well.

In one shot he's using the all singing and all dancing puller and in the next shot the flywheel is off. But if you look at the transfer casing you can see that they broke it around the starter motor hole, so they probably smashed seven bells of poop out of the flywheel through the hole to help free it off. Funnily enough they failed to mention it in the video.