27 replies to this topic

[jjojjas]

Well, its still stuck. DaveRob (on here) has generously offered to try his hydraulic puller on it next weekend if he's free. So thats my last hope really. Failing that, I'll be cutting it off.
Bummer eh?
Oh well. It's only money..................
Jas

[MRA]

Well done Dave

Let us know how it goes..... plus some piccies would be nice

[bert998]

Get yourself another housing unit and a big pry bar and just butcher the flywheel away using the housing unit as leverage at different points, butcher, turn, butcher etc.

Note - you will probably bugger up or even distort the crank but if your doing a full rebore then it dont matter.

And yes your clutch oil seal has gone.

Did that three or four years ago. Was majorly peeved off at the time, makes me smile now though

[minidaves]

a drill is a good option, if careful and its just tight, then u can remove flywheel without damage to the crank.

flywheel pullers the fine thread bolt ones are brill the draper/cheapo ones at the moment the bolt thread is too course so requires too much effort to get a sensible admount of effort on the puller to get the flywheel off, which is the reason why the bolt snaps on these item.

dave

[MRA]

any marking, gouges etc on the crank tail will generally render it scrap.... you may be lucky.........

[Kam]

Now thats what I'm talking about!! Butchered to buggery!

[jjojjas]

Snapped puller


On a shiney engine with all the seal, gaskets etc done...except the flywheel one which I waas doing last...


If DaveRob makes it up, I'll get some pic's (not of him, of the puller on the motor )
Jas

[MRA]

unfortunately its obvious;y not heavy duty enough.... get the centre drilled and tapped for a bigger finer thread use higher grade bolts NOT grade 8 try a grade 10 or 13, drill / machine the centre where the little crank spacer and the main bolt sit fpr a smallish (10mm) ball bearing

[DaveRob]

Should be ok for this weekend..... If its actally fused togeteher it wont come off no matter what puller we use.... but if its just EXTRA tight then it should pull ok....

DaveRob

[jjojjas]

It's off.
and the crank is fine.
Pics tomorrow, been busy today.
Jas

[scrumpymini]

It's off.
and the crank is fine.
Pics tomorrow, been busy today.
Jas

Top job how did you get it off in the end ?

[jjojjas]

Top job how did you get it off in the end ?

Perseverance, skill, precision..........and a grinder
First of all, cheers to DaveRob for helping, unfortunately we managed to blow the seal on the hydraulic puller, so I assumed it would be well goosed. I had mentioned it to my mate who owns a mini specialist garage locally and he said he's never broke a crank grinding flywheels off in 30 years plus. So I thought I may stand a chance...
First I loosened the flywheel off then pushed it back the 5mm or so.
then cut off the diaphragm fins that might get in the way.

then I chose to grind it flat, I thought if I went in at 90degrees I'd stand more chance of catching the crank.

Take time, then you see the collar change colour as it gets thinner, then its time to be careful......
I picked around with a screwdriver and started to cut inwards, towards the engine.
Managed this with just one grinding wheel.
then I put the puller on and it "dropped off"


Cranks fine to look at


Jas

[MRA]

Not welded on, just tight, I am surprised Dave's puller didn't do the job ...... Mine has a bearing on the end which places more load on the end of the crank.

Some race cranks don't have the keyway and such need an extreme puller for the job.

The flywheel should not have needed to be cut off if the crank is good all round

In almost 30 years of Mini's I have never ever had to cut a flywheel off a Mini crank, come close a few times.


It is important to lap your new flywheel on using fine grinding paste..... do this before you fit the transfer housing