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Mini Spi Stopped, Now Wont Start, No Fuel Or Spark


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#1 dyanetski

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Posted 27 April 2009 - 08:23 PM

Car is a 95 spi cooper. It stopped, thought it had run out of fuel (dodgy sender) but when we filled it up it would not restart. Had the AA out after having no joy and they could not fix it either. The fuel pump isn't priming and there is no spark. Anyone think what might cause this?

#2 Tomf

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Posted 27 April 2009 - 08:30 PM

I dont know if its the same as on an MPi but is there a fuel cut off switch in the engine bay?

Edited by Tomf, 27 April 2009 - 08:31 PM.


#3 Roo

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Posted 27 April 2009 - 08:31 PM

Does it turn over? Just not sparking?

And were you driving in the wet?

#4 Roo

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Posted 27 April 2009 - 08:32 PM

I dont know if its the same as on an MPi but is there a fuel cut off switch in the engine bay?



yes there is.

Black button at the back of the engine bay on the passenger side.. normally huge bumps cause it to trip.

#5 dyanetski

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Posted 27 April 2009 - 08:45 PM

its turning over good and strong yes, the fuel cutoff is not on, first thing I checked.

Was driving in the wet yes, torrential in fact!

#6 spiguy

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Posted 28 April 2009 - 01:14 PM

Car is a 95 spi cooper. It stopped, thought it had run out of fuel (dodgy sender) but when we filled it up it would not restart. Had the AA out after having no joy and they could not fix it either. The fuel pump isn't priming and there is no spark. Anyone think what might cause this?


Are you absoulutey sure you have no spark? Since your fuel gauge is dodgy, you may indeed have run out of fuel. The pump on these cars needs to be immersed in fuel to keep them cool - so they overheat and die very easily if you let the car run out. This happened to me. First thing to check is the fuse for the fuel pump. In fact my car ran out of fuel twice, and the first time it popped the fuse. Second time it killed the pump.

If the fuse is OK, then next thing to do is check for voltage at the fuel pump in the boot. Use a volt meter and get someone to switch on the ignition (2 clicks). If you read 12V then that tells you that there is power going to the pump to prime it so if it doesn't run then its goosed.

Do these checks before you go down the road of looking into there being no spark (unless of course you are certain there is no spark) because that can be a long and complicated road to go down!

If you are sure the pump is OK, then its likely to be the relay module (black box mounted up high next to the servo). There are 4 relays in there - Main relay, starter relay, fuel pump and Manifold PTC heater. Inspect the wiring going into it. I had it short out on the Clutch master cylinder pipe which runs right next to it, and burn out tracks on the circuit board in the relay module.

If you end up suspecting the relay module, you can open it up by carefully cutting the rubber sealant out at the connector end using a stanley knife. Then you can slide the board out and inspect it.

good luck

Craig

#7 dyanetski

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Posted 28 April 2009 - 02:32 PM

Car is a 95 spi cooper. It stopped, thought it had run out of fuel (dodgy sender) but when we filled it up it would not restart. Had the AA out after having no joy and they could not fix it either. The fuel pump isn't priming and there is no spark. Anyone think what might cause this?


Are you absoulutey sure you have no spark? Since your fuel gauge is dodgy, you may indeed have run out of fuel. The pump on these cars needs to be immersed in fuel to keep them cool - so they overheat and die very easily if you let the car run out. This happened to me. First thing to check is the fuse for the fuel pump. In fact my car ran out of fuel twice, and the first time it popped the fuse. Second time it killed the pump.

If the fuse is OK, then next thing to do is check for voltage at the fuel pump in the boot. Use a volt meter and get someone to switch on the ignition (2 clicks). If you read 12V then that tells you that there is power going to the pump to prime it so if it doesn't run then its goosed.

Do these checks before you go down the road of looking into there being no spark (unless of course you are certain there is no spark) because that can be a long and complicated road to go down!

If you are sure the pump is OK, then its likely to be the relay module (black box mounted up high next to the servo). There are 4 relays in there - Main relay, starter relay, fuel pump and Manifold PTC heater. Inspect the wiring going into it. I had it short out on the Clutch master cylinder pipe which runs right next to it, and burn out tracks on the circuit board in the relay module.

If you end up suspecting the relay module, you can open it up by carefully cutting the rubber sealant out at the connector end using a stanley knife. Then you can slide the board out and inspect it.

good luck

Craig


the AA man put power over the pump and it worked, so guessing that its fine? The fuse isn't blown either.

#8 spiguy

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Posted 28 April 2009 - 03:46 PM

Car is a 95 spi cooper. It stopped, thought it had run out of fuel (dodgy sender) but when we filled it up it would not restart. Had the AA out after having no joy and they could not fix it either. The fuel pump isn't priming and there is no spark. Anyone think what might cause this?


Are you absoulutey sure you have no spark? Since your fuel gauge is dodgy, you may indeed have run out of fuel. The pump on these cars needs to be immersed in fuel to keep them cool - so they overheat and die very easily if you let the car run out. This happened to me. First thing to check is the fuse for the fuel pump. In fact my car ran out of fuel twice, and the first time it popped the fuse. Second time it killed the pump.

If the fuse is OK, then next thing to do is check for voltage at the fuel pump in the boot. Use a volt meter and get someone to switch on the ignition (2 clicks). If you read 12V then that tells you that there is power going to the pump to prime it so if it doesn't run then its goosed.

Do these checks before you go down the road of looking into there being no spark (unless of course you are certain there is no spark) because that can be a long and complicated road to go down!

If you are sure the pump is OK, then its likely to be the relay module (black box mounted up high next to the servo). There are 4 relays in there - Main relay, starter relay, fuel pump and Manifold PTC heater. Inspect the wiring going into it. I had it short out on the Clutch master cylinder pipe which runs right next to it, and burn out tracks on the circuit board in the relay module.

If you end up suspecting the relay module, you can open it up by carefully cutting the rubber sealant out at the connector end using a stanley knife. Then you can slide the board out and inspect it.

good luck

Craig


the AA man put power over the pump and it worked, so guessing that its fine? The fuse isn't blown either.


OK, well in that case I think that either the problem is in the relay module, or in the power feed into it - again look for chafed wires as a possible clue. The relay box is not cheap, so unless you can get one off someone to try, then you will need to open it up as I described before.

The relay module is the only thing I can think of that could cause this (apart from burnt out or broken wiring of course)

#9 Roo

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Posted 28 April 2009 - 09:05 PM

Ok here is what i think is wrong.

I'm asssuming you do not have a splash guard on yours by the way.

In the wet mine did exactly the same.

When i got to a junction it died.. I did the same as you called the AA out.. but by he time he got there it started and followed me to work until i got there.. coming home was where i found the problem.

When HT leads get wet the current running through them tries to escape through the sylicone housing. Once it does it sparks to the nearest earth point.. mine being the ECU wiring and the engine block.. WHen they start sparking you loose spark to the plugs and thus cause the engine to die.. The only reason i know this was happening was because i was driving in the wet on the way home (same day as AA man in the morning)... i had to pull over as the mini died.. I got it started and had a look under the bonnet to see what was going on and could see the physical sparks leaving the HT leads.

I've since then put on a more expensive set of HT leads and installed a splash guard to reduce the chance of the leads getting wet.

I would check the Dizzy cap too.. make sure the rotor arm is okay and inside the cap is dry and clean.

Worth a try really.

Have you tried starting it since by the way? If not try it and see if it starts.. If it does then you know the leads are definatly at fault.

Edited by Roo, 28 April 2009 - 09:05 PM.


#10 Sprocket

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Posted 28 April 2009 - 10:27 PM

Just a small thing, but does the battey light come on when you switch the ignition on?




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