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Waxoyl Protection


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#1 stooart

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Posted 30 April 2009 - 02:37 PM

hey, just wandering whether this will be enough to cover both of my sills? if not, how mnay bottles do you think are needed?

http://www.halfords....tegoryId_165594

thanks!

#2 brianmini

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Posted 30 April 2009 - 04:29 PM

hey, just wandering whether this will be enough to cover both of my sills? if not, how mnay bottles do you think are needed?

http://www.halfords....tegoryId_165594

thanks!


Cover your sills or go in your sills?

Interested myself in something to stick in the sills, both of mine have been replaced "recently-ish" and are coated on black hammerite on the outside, think it looks quite nice in black gloss, rather than green which strangely looked mince on my car.

#3 stooart

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Posted 30 April 2009 - 05:32 PM

i just figured it would be ok to wire brush' off the small amount of surface rust and spray over it!-so over my sills! was thinking maybe a bit of the bottom of the car; few bits of the floor and stuff of that nature..

stu

#4 panelbeaterpeter

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Posted 30 April 2009 - 05:44 PM

I'm not sure what you want to achieve by doing this? Waxoyl should be used inside panels and cavities, or over the top of new paint on the underside to protect it from moisture, and therefore from rust appearing down the line. It is pointless applying it over rust, it contains no rust inhibitors so it won't kill it, it would slow it down, but that's not dealing with the problem. The only way to do it so it doesn't keep rusting and cause further problems, is by removing all traces of rust, appling an etch primer, and then priming and topcoating. If you wanted you could follow that with waxoyl.

#5 stooart

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Posted 30 April 2009 - 06:33 PM

I'm not sure what you want to achieve by doing this? Waxoyl should be used inside panels and cavities, or over the top of new paint on the underside to protect it from moisture, and therefore from rust appearing down the line. It is pointless applying it over rust, it contains no rust inhibitors so it won't kill it, it would slow it down, but that's not dealing with the problem. The only way to do it so it doesn't keep rusting and cause further problems, is by removing all traces of rust, appling an etch primer, and then priming and topcoating. If you wanted you could follow that with waxoyl.


i see, i see. im not knowledgable about these sort of things, but i see what you mean and ill give your short few steps ago instead! thanks!
this means i need 2 layers of primer, a top coat and then the waxoyl to top it off yes?

cheers

#6 Pencils

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Posted 30 April 2009 - 06:38 PM

I'm not sure what you want to achieve by doing this? Waxoyl should be used inside panels and cavities, or over the top of new paint on the underside to protect it from moisture, and therefore from rust appearing down the line. It is pointless applying it over rust, it contains no rust inhibitors so it won't kill it, it would slow it down, but that's not dealing with the problem. The only way to do it so it doesn't keep rusting and cause further problems, is by removing all traces of rust, appling an etch primer, and then priming and topcoating. If you wanted you could follow that with waxoyl.



But the blurb on the can and on the halfords site says...............Kills old rust and prevents new rust

#7 panelbeaterpeter

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Posted 30 April 2009 - 06:43 PM

Well they're lying. It will slow it down, due to it being oily, same as if you put a rusty hinge in a tub of oil it won't really carry on rusting, but it doesn't kill it. If you look on the waxoyl website, it says that it stops rust from flourishing, thats not the same as killing it.

Edited by panelbeaterpeter, 30 April 2009 - 06:49 PM.


#8 Pencils

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Posted 30 April 2009 - 06:48 PM

So it doesn't do what it says on the tin, that is well worth knowing. Thank you

#9 Burnard

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Posted 30 April 2009 - 06:57 PM

hey, just wandering whether this will be enough to cover both of my sills? if not, how mnay bottles do you think are needed?

http://www.halfords....tegoryId_165594

thanks!


Cover your sills or go in your sills?

Interested myself in something to stick in the sills, both of mine have been replaced "recently-ish" and are coated on black hammerite on the outside, think it looks quite nice in black gloss, rather than green which strangely looked mince on my car.


I wouldnt put wax-oil on the outside of my car, all the crud off the road will stick to it as it never hardens.
im going to spray my new sills with tetra-seal (think its called that) drys hard, plus the rest of the car is already coverd in it.


regarding putting something inside the sills, i read something on here the other day about filling them with expanding foam, which would stop any water from getting in, not sure if thats correct, would be great if it was?
if it is try i will probably coat the inside with wax-oil and then fill with the foam, should provide a decent protection.

(this is only what i plan to do, from information i have read, i was planning to ask my self nearer the time. it isnt nesercerily correct, would be good to know if it was?)


Chris

#10 panelbeaterpeter

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Posted 30 April 2009 - 07:10 PM

Hmm in theory the foam idea would work seeing as it's closed cell and non absorbent, providing there were NO cavities, or the condesation would just attack those areas. It would also make carrying out repairs in the future a complete nightmare, as it's very tricky stuff to remove and is very flammable.

#11 tommy13

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Posted 30 April 2009 - 07:14 PM

If you were interested in doing inside your sills I can recommend this product which I used after fitting the sills to my sons mini.
http://www.valvoline...8b69cffc418641b

I got it from a local factors who stock Valvoline products. The neat piece of the kit is the applicator wand which is about 4 mm diameter and 1/2 metre long, it has a brass jet in the end with 6 peripheral holes and one in the middle and atomises the wax into a perfect hemisphere. You can take out either of the rear subframe mounting bolts from the heel board and feed it up the sill through the bolt hole. Find the holes on the inner sill behind the carpet and go both directions through these and the whole sill internal should be covered. Remove the courtesy light switch and do up and down the door pillar if you wish. I think you can do both sides with one tin.
This product also claims to destroy rust, but I would agree with Panelbeaterpeter, I doubt if it does, but it may stop it getting any worse. I used the aerosol shown in the link.

Edited by tommy13, 30 April 2009 - 07:30 PM.


#12 jjojjas

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Posted 30 April 2009 - 08:05 PM

I speak from experience with landrovers / off road stuff. Waxoyle is very good stuff. Apply it inside cavities and over everything under the car, except the exhaust. Its pretty pointless putting it on top of rust in my experience, its much more effective over sound paint. It doesn't set hard, its wax. but the crud doesn't stick to it, with care I even got away with jet washing the defender after it had been off road. i used to re-touch it every 18-month, but to be honest, unless your doing rally stages in your mini, you shouldn't need to do this.
Some people don't like it for aesthetic reasons...ie, it looks like wax all over the bottom of your car...
If you drive when its sunny, garage over winter and don't go out in the wet, then waxoyle isn't that important, but if you run year round and your not going to show your car with a mirror under it then its good stuff.
I'll be waxoyling mine after the rebuild.

#13 brianmini

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Posted 30 April 2009 - 08:56 PM

I used to wirebrush my sills every year in the spring, then coat them in Waxoyl paint stuff (basically the same as is in that aerosol you've mentioned).

The sills lasted 8 years from when I bought the car, to when they disolved in a cloud of rust dust! >_< Now 8 years sounds good, but the sills were paper thin last year when it failed its MOT.

I know what i'd rather do in future, protect the inside of the sills, and coat the outside in tons of nice thick safe hammerite. And then not replace them in 8 years! :mrcool:

#14 Hughes

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Posted 30 April 2009 - 09:13 PM

Our car was waxoyled to DEATH by the garage we bought it from. Its all over the boot, inside the bumpers etc.

Have to say I wish they hadn't. Its great for rust prevention on daily drivers/wet weather cars but for ours its a fork-king nightmare. Gets all over your hands and tools everytime you work on the car.

Only seems to come off with white spirit.

#15 stooart

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Posted 01 May 2009 - 07:25 AM

would you guys say its alrite to start off by wire brush off the surface rust/flaking paint, then prime the area, and then paint it. What paint should i use, preferably black, cheap and something i can brush on? After that, ill then use the aerosole waxoyl.




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