21 replies to this topic

[Retro_10s]

13mm socket

Always use the correct size tools! That means imperial - not metric!

[rpowell86]

I count myself very lucky today. Fixed the problem!

The (old) radiator cap was jammed between the engine block and and the radiator housing! Not quite sure why the blades would be rubbing, none the less its okay to go for the moment.

While I was looking I also found a fuse box cover too, wedged down there! Now I know its not just me becuase I found a sprocket wedged between the grille and the alternator when I first got it! LOL

anyway, problems fixed until another day

Edited by rpowell86, 22 June 2009 - 02:50 PM.

[jaydee]

The (old) petrol cap was jammed between the engine block and and the radiator housing! While I was looking I also found a fuse box cover too, wedged down there! Now I know its not just me becuase I found a sprocket wedged between the grille and the alternator when I first got it! LOL

You can always add these items to the 'things ate by minis engine bay' thread..

[Cooperman]

There was always an issue with the earlier Minis with the 2-piece rad shroud. The rad and shroud were/are rubber mounted and if you hit a really big bump the fan could, and sometimed did, hit the shroud at the position of the shroud joint. This bent the shroud which then 'grabbed' a fan blade bending it back and causing it to jam under the water pump. Fan belt failure was quite quick after that if you did not stop straight away.
This was common on rally cars and is why, as in my 1964 rally 'S', the rad is always bolted in without any rubber mountings.
Some have said that it's good to shorten the fan blades to prevent this, but the Mini cooling system is a 'ducted fan' design and the vast majority of the cooling air is passed through the rad using just the end of the blades. Cutting, say, 3/8" off the end of each blade loses about 15% of the available cooling air.
I also atach my rad cap to the body with a length of 'lavatory chain' to prevent it from ever getting into the fan area.

[998dave]

Looks like I need to make a "special" rad cap with a string.......... you know like your motorcycle gloves so that you din't lose them

Regards Martin

Oddly enough my rad cap is wired to my car. I drilled one of the ears, clipped a small key ring loop through it, and used a small chain to connect that to the bulkhead, no more lost rad-cap for me!

That along with my bulkheaded mounted anodised alloy hair-spray overflow bottle make for a very punk radiator.

Dave

[91neon]

That along with my bulkheaded mounted anodised alloy hair-spray overflow bottle make for a very punk radiator.

Dave

any pics id like to see that!

Edited by 91neon, 24 June 2009 - 07:14 PM.

[Nightrain]

The boiling point of the coolant is increased because it's under pressure, this is why pressurized systems are used. You should have a 15psi rad cap, under 15psi of pressure the boiling point of water is about 120 degrees instead of 100.