17 replies to this topic

[sovenmini]

hi do's any one know a good web site / link on stripping or rebuild a weber carb.

[mini7boy]

hi do's any one know a good web site / link on stripping or rebuild a weber carb.

what kind of a Weber is it and why do you need to disassemble it?

Unless you really know Webers well, you're liable to only cause yourself problems.

[sovenmini]

it' s not been used in a long time and need a complete clean it's already striped out. it a weber 40 dcoe

[bmcecosse]

Depends what chokes are in it - could be ok for a 998/1098 (34mm chokes) - but too small for a 1275. Plenty of advice on internet!

[Nightrain]

This may be of use to you

Attached Files

•  40DCOE151.pdf   60.62K   81 downloads

[mini7boy]

Though not strictly what you asked for, it may help you to understand how Webers work.

Even though this document relates to installing Webers on Triumphs, it is useful in describing(with pictures) the various components
in a Weber DCOE carbie.



For anyone else just starting out with Webers, this is a very good "Weber DCOE 101" textbook that costs nothing.

http://www.tjwakeman...berDCOEinfo.htm

Edited by mini7boy, 24 July 2009 - 11:57 PM.

[sovenmini]

thanks that really good lots of info

[m1tch]

When rebuilding carbs, is it just a matter of changing the gaskets and seals over? I have a DCOE 40 as well to rebuild, would I just need a kit from minisport etc with all the gaskets? take it apart and put it back together again?

Also, what jetting do you have in your 40? and what engine will it be set for? my weber is set for a full on race engine so its got HUGE main jets and I don't know what is normal lol

[mini7boy]

When rebuilding carbs, is it just a matter of changing the gaskets and seals over? I have a DCOE 40 as well to rebuild, would I just need a kit from minisport etc with all the gaskets? take it apart and put it back together again?

Also, what jetting do you have in your 40? and what engine will it be set for? my weber is set for a full on race engine so its got HUGE main jets and I don't know what is normal lol

Let me just say that Weber carbs, in general, don't require much rebuilding. It's quite possible that more Webers
have been damaged than helped by amateur rebuilding attempts. Consider having an expert rebuild your carb.

They are well-built with quality materials and good machining and if kept clean will work well for many years without disassembly
except to change tuning parts.

The key to keeping them clean is to run air filters. Don't even think about running one without some form of air filter. If you do,
the carb(s) will ingest all sorts of filth which will do a beautiful job of blocking many of the fine passageways that were so brilliantly
designed and manufactured. It doesn't take more than a tiny particle to cause misfiring and poor performance.

Look at a DCOE as a fine and delicate instrument and treat it accordingly. Keep it clean and do not over-tighten any of the
threaded parts.

Weber carbs have a number of vary small passageways in them. To operate correctly, a Weber carb needs to be super clean.
Unless a Weber carb is really filthy inside, you're probably best off to simply clean off each of the removable components and carefully blow out
the passageways to make sure they are clear. Be careful not to blow any material into the passageways. Don't overdue it with blowing
air into the carb. Relatively modest pressure and a brief squirt into each opening is all that's needed.

You can replace gaskets and seals, but this is not a rebuild, and can cause more problems than it solves if the gaskets and seals
don't really need replacing.

Whatever you do, don't use heavy, thick liquids for cleaning. Do NOT even think about soaking a Weber or its body in any sort of cleaning fluid.
Better to use very thin liquids that evaporate quickly, like alcohol or acetone, but make sure not to damage the plastic float if your carb has one.
One of the quick evaporating aerosol cleaners, such as Brake-kleen, can be helpful if used sensibly.

Don't take apart the butterfly shaft assembly. These almost never need cleaning or refreshing of the bearings(when such exist). The butterfly
valves are attached to the shaft by fine screws with split threaded portions. These are very nasty to remove and replace and it's also very
easy to twist/bend the butterfly shaft such that the butterfly valves are no longer synchronized in their opening/closing.

It's very easy for one not expert in Webers to do more harm than good by disassembling them any more than is needed to simply clean out
the easily removable parts that are commonly exchanged for tuning purposes. Anything beyond this and the cost-benefits ratio goes way UP very quickly.

It's very easy, if one is not careful, to lose one or more of the many loose parts that Weber DCOEs are full of. By all means use one of the exploded parts
diagrams to ensure that all of the parts are in place after you are done cleaning.

Edited by mini7boy, 27 July 2009 - 07:58 AM.

[Retro_10s]

Ah great thread guys,... lots of useful info I'm gonna have me a read!

[HARBER07]

It's very easy for one not expert in Webers to do more harm than good by disassembling them any more than is needed to simply clean out
the easily removable parts that are commonly exchanged for tuning purposes. Anything beyond this and the cost-benefits ratio goes way down quickly.

Yup, thats too true .

[Bungle]

eurocarb are good for parts and advice

[mini7boy]

eurocarb are good for parts and advice

Fast Road Cars has the best prices on DCOE bits that I have found anywhere. http://www.fastroadc...p...Cat&catId=5

They also have an Ebay presence, but I think the prices are slightly cheaper on their website than on Ebay.

I have purchased items from them and had them shipped to the U.S. The service was prompt, impeccable and the prices were as quoted. Great source.

I don't know how they are as a source of technical assistance, though.

[cooper66]

"Don't even think about running one without some form of air filter."

Hi, new to this, first post etc....

Just read this comment and I've got a 45 DCOE on my mini, already fitted when I bought it, and there's seemingly no room between this and the bulkhead to fit a filter. Am I risking damaging the weber, or just losing performance? Perhaps the lack of filter is also explaining the smell of petrol coming through the centre mounted speedo hole in the bulkhead.

Any advice on super slim filters that would fit this tight squeeze please? thanks

[m1tch]

"Don't even think about running one without some form of air filter."

Hi, new to this, first post etc....

Just read this comment and I've got a 45 DCOE on my mini, already fitted when I bought it, and there's seemingly no room between this and the bulkhead to fit a filter. Am I risking damaging the weber, or just losing performance? Perhaps the lack of filter is also explaining the smell of petrol coming through the centre mounted speedo hole in the bulkhead.

Any advice on super slim filters that would fit this tight squeeze please? thanks

Webers aren't ment to fit in the OEM location, they need a 'weber box' sunk into the bulkhead