17 replies to this topic

[Add_Gee]

This is 'PEA', my mates mini that has been sat in the garage for 4 years.

Its a 1984, B reg, 998

We have decided to do a full restoration on it, strip in bare, weld all the rusty bits, engine rebuild (maybe 1275), recon all the parts to go back on, respray the shell.

Got to work on saturday taking the bay apart, got everything off fairly easy, just leaving the cluch lever assembly, gear linkage and a bit of loom to remove.
When back last night and took all the clutch lever stuff off, drained the hydro fluid, revomed all the lights and loom to go with it, removed the heater matrix and pipework and what was left of the dash.

Just stuck on removing the remote gear change rod at the mo, bit of a *Female doggy*, but after that engine is ready to come out Smile

Anyway, heres the pics from saturday, will hopefully keep this thread going with regular updates.




The owner (need him to sign up to TMF)


Me with the haynes manual, lol



Bit of a hole :saywhat:

[Jackman]

Thats going to be a good project for you.

[Guess-Works.com]

nice project... and a bit of learn to weld practice there me thinks..

[Add_Gee]

will deff be a steep learning curve

Lots of new parts to aquire and rebuild some old parts.

Can you buy replacement pannels for the floor? or is it best to weld plates in there?

[Add_Gee]

taken from your other post GW, about the remote gear change lever removal...

As for removing the block, the gear linkage should be removed from the back of the gearbox, if you have a remote or magic wand, then it's just a matter of unbolting it, but if you have a rod change ( two rods, one moveable, and one bolted to the back of the diff housing ), the opper one should beunbolted, and the lower one, there is a rollpin which must be drifted/punched out with a hammer. To gain best access for this, move the gearstick fully over to the right, into the reverse position, but don't engage the gear. the roll pin can then be punched out from the offside..

Which pin do you remove? the one holding the collar to the rod going to the gear selector, or the one holding the collar to the rod going into the gear box?

seemed really hard to move either.

[Jammy]

Either really, I think the one holding the collar to the rod going to the selector might be slightly easier to get to, but I think generally most people have a bash at both til one of them comes out.

[Guess-Works.com]

The one at the gearbox side, and you will find it difficult unless you have the right sized punch, 3/16, or you may just get away with a 5/6mm punch.

[Add_Gee]

so using a 6 inch nail isnt a good idea then...

[Add_Gee]

so how about the floor...?

[Jackman]

I think you can buy new floor pannels from places. If your replacing the wheel arches and stuff could be a good idea to do the floor too instead of just patching it up.

[Add_Gee]

The front end and suttle has been replaced before and is in really good condition, just the inner wings which will need plating at the front.

But the floor and the a panels have gone on both sides, then just a few small patches here and there.

[Jackman]

Myself i would replace the floor panel and the wings as will save doing it again in the future. If your going for a good rebuild it will be better to remove the rusty pannels and put fresh ones in.

[CAU998]

Looks like a nice project, looks a bit like mine at the mo! :grin: Ripping apart ready for welding.I'm not far off taking engine out. Good fun apart from cutting your knuckles open trying to release rusty nuts 'n' bolts. Especially when you think your getting somewhere and suddenly the end of it snaps off!

[Add_Gee]

know what you saying CAU998, got two starter solinoid bolts to hacksaw off

[Add_Gee]

UPDATE:

Have removed the roll pin now, easy when you know how. So all the gear linkage is now off.

Have decided to go the root of droping the whole subframe with wheels and everything attached in the theroy that we can wheel the engine back into the garage and take it apart at a later date. Going to lift the car body up and over and roll it along on two wheels.

All the subframe bolts are off apart from the two main 32mm top mounts. Shockers are off (they were very rotten!), and the steering coloum has been unbolted along with the steering rack from the bulkhead. So the rack will also be going with the subframe.

Hopefully this weekend the last two bolts will come off and the engine and body will part company.

Next stage will be body repair!