29 replies to this topic

[cobblers]

Just been out and gave it a quick run - cold idle pressure was 90PSI as it started - this quickly dropped to 22PSI as the thing warmed up over a steady 2 mile drive, the roads are too clogged to get much of an idea of the pressure at 40 or 50mph, but it doesn't seem to rise much with the revs.

The engine sounds lovely until 3500rpm when there is a very pronounced knock coming from what sounds like the left hand side of the bottom end, near the clutch end.

The oil level was just above minimum - I've topped it up to full. The oil seemed free of any metal particles, so it doesn't look catastrophic!

After I do my few little checks (which I'm fairly certain won't give me the good news I'm hoping for) I plan to get the engine out, split it and check the condition of the shells and crank and replace accordingly.

I've read that it's possible to take the engine out, leaving the gearbox in the car, and since I'll need the box off to access the crank, This way might save me a little effort? What do you reckon? I'll be buying a haynes manual for the torques etc, but is there anything else that is better?



In a weird way, I'm actually looking forward to having a good tinker with it!

I think what happened is the engine was running very hot all the way home - The car has a digital dash which said 88-94 degrees all the way back, but the sender for this is in the top of the radiator, and I don't think it was actually in the water!
There is an analogue temp guage, which runs off the normal sender. This guage was right at max all the way back, I'd assumed this was just down to an inaccurate guage, as it read this even when the digital guage said 86c.
Since the engine was running this hot with no oil cooler, the oil got overhot and thinned down too much causing my problems.

Edited by cobblers, 09 September 2009 - 08:54 AM.

[liirge]

its going to be alot easier all round to take the engine plus gearbox out together, you can then split the engine on a bench or the likes.

[bmcecosse]

If I only need access to the engine - then I only take the engine out! Much easier - and can be done without a hoist if you take the head off - then one man lift to remove the engine from the box. Saves disconnecting driveshafts or gearchange.

[cobblers]

I had another drive in it - It got louder as the oil warmed up, but the pressure is still at 30PSI.

I popped in to the local specialist (Minimod) to ask if the chap could lend an ear anytime, just to confirm. I'll get my bits off him, he seemed a nice bloke. Taking it up tomorrow afternoon for him to have a listen and work out what I'll need.

Thanks for your help!

[WiredbyWilson]

40 psi at 70 mph is way too low! There may be trouble ahead - fit an oil cooler!

try reading my post - i said 40lb

[liirge]

If I only need access to the engine - then I only take the engine out! Much easier - and can be done without a hoist if you take the head off - then one man lift to remove the engine from the box. Saves disconnecting driveshafts or gearchange.

How do you get to the nuts at the back between the engine and the box? surely the Diff housing is in the way?

[GraemeC]

Come on Wilson - 40lb and 40psi are the same
psi = pounds per square inch

Edited by GraemeC, 09 September 2009 - 12:00 PM.

[WiredbyWilson]

Come on Wilson - 40lb and 40psi are the same
psi = pounds per square inch

Gets coat........

[Nightrain]

If I only need access to the engine - then I only take the engine out! Much easier - and can be done without a hoist if you take the head off - then one man lift to remove the engine from the box. Saves disconnecting driveshafts or gearchange.

How do you get to the nuts at the back between the engine and the box? surely the Diff housing is in the way?

Oh it is possible liirge lol if you reach down the back of the engine after the manifolds are off.

But while roys still undoing those everyone else has had the full engine out and split from the box. Done the work and are putting the engine back in.

[cobblers]

On advice from a few people, the entire engine is coming out, box and all. I took a mate out in it last night and he agrees that it's the bottom end making the noise, which gets louder as the oil warms up. I suspect that the oil pressure is still reasonable because there is just one bearing that has failed, perhaps due to incorrect fitting to start with, or a poor quality bearing.
I'll strip the crank out and inspect/measure it - If it shows any visible wear I'll take it to be reground if there is still scope to, and I'll replace and plastiguage all the bearings so I can be sure they are all going to be OK in the future. I'll also check the oil pump and pressure limiting valve.

Haynes seems unclear on how I get the shafts off the box - Do they just lever out or do I need to do anything special?

[GraemeC]

Presuming this is a later Mini with 'pot' type inner CVs then the whole joint will lever out of the gearbox - make sure you have drained the oil first!!!!

You will probably need to disconnect the top hub ball joint on both sides of the car to allow the driveshaft to fall away from the gearbox - it can be done without but if you haven't done it before it is easier this way.
Once the engine is out reconnect the ball joints to get the car mobile again.

In fact - before the car is jacked up, reach behind the front wheels and remove the rubber rebound pads from under the top arms (should be a posidrive screw). Temporarily replace these with a stout nut or something 8-10mm thick. This will hold the top arms up when you jack the car up and make it a little easier for the hub to move down when releasing the ball joints.

[cobblers]

Well, finally got round to doing this! Took the engine out earlier and took the flywheel cover and stuff off. Came to removing the flywheel, and the main bolt (1.5 inch job) wasn't all that tight - It came off with one hand on a 30cm long bar, without much effort, didn't even grunt - certainly not on to 150lb/ft. Felt more like 40 or so.

I took the flywheel off, which came off without too much effort at all (6 inch long adjustable spanner on the puller bolt, no real effort) and found some radial wear/marking on the taper of the crank and some wear in the keyway on the washer jobbie. I'm thinking of bolting it up back on, torquing it up properly (after running some emery cloth over the end of the crank) and putting it all back in and seeing how I get on. Save splitting the engine to bits and taking bearing caps off if I don't have to.

The claims of "rebuilt 3k ago" are probably right when looking at the engine - all the seals are new and everything looks fresh and clean, bright red block paint and nothing siezed in apart from the mikalor clamps on the manifold.

[cobblers]

I put the flywheel back on good and tight, put the engine back in and quickly got it started up. Still knocking But it seems to sound lighter, less deep than before?

Here's a video for you:

flsR6st1j_s

Any ideas?

Edited by cobblers, 18 October 2009 - 06:11 PM.

[liirge]

If I only need access to the engine - then I only take the engine out! Much easier - and can be done without a hoist if you take the head off - then one man lift to remove the engine from the box. Saves disconnecting driveshafts or gearchange.

How do you get to the nuts at the back between the engine and the box? surely the Diff housing is in the way?

Oh it is possible liirge lol if you reach down the back of the engine after the manifolds are off.

But while roys still undoing those everyone else has had the full engine out and split from the box. Done the work and are putting the engine back in.

Haha, One of those!

[Sprocket]

If after checking the obvious, such as the fan catching the radiator, the correct bolts are used on the engine mounting clutch end, clutch slave cylinder bolts are the correct length, then it sounds much like its a big end or center main bearing.

I did a similar thing. I removed the 'noisey' engine thinking it was the manifold touching the bulkhead, moved the engine mountings forward, and refitted the engine only to find that it was still the same! Engine back out, and in bits to find a heap load of copper in the sump, off with the center main bearing cap to find the damage!

It pays to do it once, and once only, even if there is nothing wrong, you have at least reduced the possabilities. I will listen to my self the next time as it would have saved me two weeks and no need to move the ening mountings