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Enging Running On After Ignition Is Off.


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#16 taffy1967

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Posted 12 September 2009 - 11:42 PM

My Mini 998 HL has done the same thing since the abolition of leaded fuel, I've polished the chambers cleaned the piston tops, tried colder plugs, which is a good idea with unleaded fuel anyway, tried slightly different timing settings either side of the recommended, nothing makes a scrap of difference, I just stall the engine as I turn off the ignition. The only modification which may work is the air valve fitted to MG Metros to cure this very problem, when you switch off the ignition, a valve opens, allowing air into the inlet manifold, destroying the vacuum within the manifold, hence stopping fuel being drawn from the main jet.


The 1990/91 carb Rover Mini Coopers had anti-run on valves fitted and my 1990 Mainstream Mini Cooper has never had this problem.

Have you tried revving the engine and then switching off the ignition? Sometimes that can help the unburned fuel getting used.

#17 Saxo-Fiesta-Mini

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Posted 13 September 2009 - 02:52 PM

burny did you seriously not decoke your head and relap the valves when the car was in bits ????????/


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#18 Moke boy

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Posted 13 September 2009 - 06:41 PM

Forgetting the over run, I was under the impression that the Britpart/ SimonBB electronic

ignition could not run on the more powerful lucas Sports coil, believed it would burn it out !

David

#19 Burnard

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Posted 13 September 2009 - 07:49 PM

no, its the ballast coils that burn it out. any non ballast coil will work (or so ive been told)

#20 Burnard

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Posted 13 September 2009 - 07:51 PM

burny did you seriously not decoke your head and relap the valves when the car was in bits ????????/


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I didnt take my head off, there apeard to be no need.

#21 Shifty

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Posted 13 September 2009 - 08:04 PM

Be very careful about what coil you use with the britpart, I would only recommend using the standard points type coil with one. Even better use the coil that britparts recommend.

Running in is caused by advanced timing, not retarded.

First stage in fixing is.......Chuck your timing light in the bin!!!

Lets go old school here.

- Slacken Dizzy

- Start engine and set to a fast idle.

- Rotate dizzy until you get the fastest and smoothest idle.

- Turn engine off.

-Restart engine and see if it starts cleanly and with no hesitation, if it appears to "Stutter" then retard timing slightly(anti clockwise) and try again. Repeat until it does.

Job Done!

#22 Pauly

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Posted 13 September 2009 - 08:05 PM

If timings dead on then the head needs de-coking.

Paul.

Edited by Pauly, 13 September 2009 - 08:05 PM.


#23 Burnard

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Posted 13 September 2009 - 08:08 PM

Be very careful about what coil you use with the britpart, I would only recommend using the standard points type coil with one. Even better use the coil that britparts recommend.

Running in is caused by advanced timing, not retarded.

First stage in fixing is.......Chuck your timing light in the bin!!!

Lets go old school here.

- Slacken Dizzy

- Start engine and set to a fast idle.

- Rotate dizzy until you get the fastest and smoothest idle.

- Turn engine off.

-Restart engine and see if it starts cleanly and with no hesitation, if it appears to "Stutter" then retard timing slightly(anti clockwise) and try again. Repeat until it does.

Job Done!


We did it that method, then checked it with the timing light, and it was the timing stated in the haynes. Although i didnt do the stop start bit.

How can i go about decokeing the head, or do i have to take the head off to do it?
I did some some adatives in halfords that claimed they did something similar.


Thanks

Chris

#24 Shifty

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Posted 13 September 2009 - 08:12 PM

Wait till you get it on the road and then give it a DAMM good thrashing, that should de-coke it!!

Don't know if the additives work as never tried em.

Have you tried retarding the timing a little?

Does it "Pink" or sound a little "rumbly" when you blip the throttle?

All signs of too far advanced timing.

#25 minimender

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Posted 13 September 2009 - 08:30 PM

Engine running on is caused usually by RETARDED TIMING or a WEAK mixture.

I'll put my money on timing retarded by a lot, and I'll also wager that someone has set the timing and forgoton to disconnect the vac advance whilst they were doing it. Garages are ofter guilty of doing this especially if they are unused to tuning classic cars. (check your dizzy is advancing propperly as well, could be faulty)

Just my two penneth.

P.S. get the timing set propper and mixture set then go for a blast, that'll burn any exces carbon deposits off for you, don't worry about it.

Forgot to say why it runs on without ignition on.... Exhaust valves get red hot and ignite the mixture..


Timing is dead on, as per haynes manual (10deg advance@1500rpm with vacuum pipe off) i know because ive only just set it (can i have your money? :D ), if there is a better setting please recomend.

Weak mixture meaning i need to richen it up a bit?


Thanks


Chris



Not havin me money yet, :)
Check plugs, they should not be ashen coloured, this is too weak. They should be light grey idealy, modern engines can run weak but not a Mini.
Timing sounds OK but is it advancing above 1500, try and check with the vac pipe off and see how far it advances, you can go 30 to 35 degrees as long as the engine dont pink and it's ok lower down, depends on yer dizzy and state of tune.
10 degrees at 1500 is ok but if it is advancing at 1500 then that is not enough, check it at about 3000 and 4000 if you can and see what the advance is.

Is the vac advance working ? this would cause retarded timing at part throttle openings if not. Pull the pipe off at idle and the engine should slow down.

Worth mentioning that the needle may be weak mid range.
Rich will NOT cause running on, weak mixture causes that together with retarded timing, the exhuast valves get hot as the mixture is still burning when it exits the exhaust valves and overheats them.

#26 Burnard

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Posted 13 September 2009 - 08:47 PM

im being told two different things here :D



Plugs are black, but they were before i started tuneing. so ill clean them up and see what happens.
The revs do drop if i take the vac pipe off.

So we are saying that it may be too lean, but definatly not too rich?

Just checked with my dad, it isnt pinking.

thanks

chris

Edited by Burnard, 13 September 2009 - 09:17 PM.


#27 Burnard

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Posted 13 September 2009 - 08:49 PM

Timing sounds OK but is it advancing above 1500, try and check with the vac pipe off and see how far it advances, you can go 30 to 35 degrees as long as the engine dont pink and it's ok lower down, depends on yer dizzy and state of tune.
10 degrees at 1500 is ok but if it is advancing at 1500 then that is not enough, check it at about 3000 and 4000 if you can and see what the advance is.


Could to explain that again please, im not a complete noob, but i am still learning.

Edited by Burnard, 13 September 2009 - 09:16 PM.





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