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How to remove the engine, step by step :-)


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#16 zef

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Posted 04 December 2011 - 01:33 AM

When I remove driveshafts I tend to just cut the pot joint boot clip and separate them that way. Then you don't lose oil and you can repack the joints with fresh cv grease. Just be careful you don't lose the balls. :D

When it comes to refitting an engine I weld the nuts to the engine mounts, I find it easier than fighting to get a spanner in.

#17 Tomm

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Posted 04 December 2011 - 03:44 AM


Gearshift mechanism


I always always forget this one! Every single time!

#18 Richc69

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Posted 15 May 2016 - 09:07 PM

I don't even take the rad off and if I can get away with it the carb stays on too...

Things to defintely remove...

Accelerator cable,
Choke cable,
Heater cable,
Heater hoses ( one to head and one to bottom hose )
Top engine steady
Bottom gearbox steady (if fitted)
Clutch slave from housing.
Starter solenoid ( if on inner wing )
Alternator, just gets in the way...
Gearshift mechanism
Exhaust, if LCB the you can just separate it at the Y piece.
drive shafts ( to do this remove top ball joint and lean hub back )
Brake servo (if fitted)

Then lift and separate..

oohh.. and Dizzy cap and rotor arm..

 

I seemed to remember hoisting the engine out with the twin carbs and LCB still on the motor in my youth,  but try as I might today,  I couldn't get the engine at the correct angle to get the front edge of the gearbox to clear the subframe,  and in leaning the engine back as much as I could,  managed to muller the outer casing of the speedo cable.  In the end I took the carbs and LCB off to make things easier.  Should come out ok now,  but will have to wait until next weekend.



#19 Cooperman

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Posted 16 May 2016 - 09:36 PM

I once took the engine and gearbox out by raising the car whilst leaving the unit on the sub-frame. That was back in 1969 - never again!!

I always lift the engine and 'box upwards from the engine bay leaving as much stuff as possible on the engine, including radiator, alternator, starter motor and distributor.

You do need the correct engine hoist bracket (known as the BMC Sky-Hook) and a decent hoist/crane.



#20 Broomer

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Posted 16 May 2016 - 09:38 PM

Cut front off and fit a removable front. Then you can simply just lift it out easy.

#21 jackjewelljj

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Posted 16 May 2016 - 09:43 PM

Best thing todo is dump the gay series in the bin and fit a modern 16v lump

#22 Broomer

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Posted 16 May 2016 - 09:49 PM

One day the a series will be extinct like the dinosaurs they are.

#23 jonnyfawr

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Posted 26 May 2019 - 03:20 PM

just about to remove my engine for the first time, and thanks for all the useful advice in this thread

 

One Q - how heavy is the engine?, my garage roof joist is just above the engine - could I strengthen that and use it to lift out???

 

 

I am going it to replace the Clutch housing, and release mechanism

Tried to do this while the engine is in, but failed, so out it comes.

 

What other jobs would be useful to do while the engine is out?

 

Ta


Edited by jonnyfawr, 26 May 2019 - 06:05 PM.


#24 sc-em

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Posted 27 May 2019 - 09:47 AM

It should be straight forward to remove the clutch housing with the engine in situ. I did it lots of times then I was messing about shimming up my primary gear. Support the sump with a block of wood on a jack and then remove the engine mounting bolts, slave cylinder and clutch housing. You will need to raise the jack to take the load. Once in there you can split the clutch plate and flywheel, inspect, replace the oil seal (a special tool needed) and reinstall in the reverse order. Yes, fiddly, but not too bad a job.

 

Buy an engine crane if you do intend to remove the lot. Unless you are very sure of your joist weight capacity. Very useful bit of kit.


Edited by sc-em, 27 May 2019 - 09:49 AM.


#25 jonnyfawr

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Posted 27 May 2019 - 12:43 PM

It should be straight forward to remove the clutch housing with the engine in situ. I did it lots of times then I was messing about shimming up my primary gear. Support the sump with a block of wood on a jack and then remove the engine mounting bolts, slave cylinder and clutch housing. You will need to raise the jack to take the load. Once in there you can split the clutch plate and flywheel, inspect, replace the oil seal (a special tool needed) and reinstall in the reverse order. Yes, fiddly, but not too bad a job.

 

Buy an engine crane if you do intend to remove the lot. Unless you are very sure of your joist weight capacity. Very useful bit of kit.

briliant thanks, worked a treat, and saved me a mountain of bother !!!



#26 sc-em

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Posted 27 May 2019 - 05:27 PM

Pleased to be of help! :D






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