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What Needle To Use


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#1 FailleARQ

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Posted 27 October 2009 - 03:11 AM

Hi.
Can someone look in the winsu and tellme the best 3 needles, and performance quotes???

I have this configuration:

998cc, 12g295 head, hif38 with kone, freeflow exhaust, 45d distributor with electronic ignition, 3.44 final drive, standar cam, 6 blade fan, standar rockers...

Thanks a lot

#2 Big_Adam

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Posted 27 October 2009 - 11:42 AM

I use a AAA needled in my Hs4. Not sure what it would be on HIF as I think they are silly things.

#3 Robbie

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Posted 27 October 2009 - 11:53 AM

Right, because the information you gave me was a bit vague in paces, these figures are quite rough, and because I haven't registered the software, it has disguised some of the results.
:D

The top three needles it recommends are:
A?D
A?K
A?U

Performance Data:
54.1 bhp at the flywheel
41.9 bhp at the wheels
56.8 lb/ft of torque
0-60 mph in 13.3 secs

Hope this helps,
Robbie

Edited by RobbieH241_HEH, 27 October 2009 - 12:02 PM.


#4 jaydee

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Posted 27 October 2009 - 11:51 PM

Needle choice for that spec is among these needles:
AAU
AAA
AAM
Personally i'd try AAM.
And yes, hif38 and hs4 carbs needles are the same.

Edited by jaydee, 27 October 2009 - 11:53 PM.


#5 Darkscamp

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Posted 27 October 2009 - 11:54 PM

always found AAU to be a good needle for what sounds like a stage 1 kit

#6 bmcecosse

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Posted 27 October 2009 - 11:55 PM

AAA is a good starting point. Fit it - tune it - take it for a good run and then check the plug colours. Should be light beige if ok. Brown/black is rich and white is weak - possible risk of piston damage! The HIF is a much better carb.

#7 jaydee

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Posted 28 October 2009 - 12:12 AM

AAU and AAK needles are too lean to cope with a cone filter and a 295 head.
Checking the spark plugs can be a good idea, they will also show you if timing is correct (you'll notice a color change where the ground strap bends).
You can always use a gas tester to set mixture at 2,5 co at about 1000rpm.

#8 FailleARQ

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Posted 28 October 2009 - 03:34 AM

Thanks a lot, I will try to find an AAA, now I have a AEM and I trying to tune it because in less than 3000RPM is too little power and the mini is giving about 9kms/Lt, I want at least 12Kms/Lt.


I'm using 20w50 oil in the carb, is good over 3500RPM but the response is not good below that

Edited by FailleARQ, 28 October 2009 - 03:36 AM.


#9 FailleARQ

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Posted 28 October 2009 - 07:12 PM

I'm using 20w50 oil in the carb, is good over 3500RPM but the response is not good below that

Is it good??

#10 dklawson

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Posted 28 October 2009 - 08:40 PM

What oil to use in the dashpot is always a subject of debate and personal preference. If you're not happy with the 20W50, try different oils. It's easy enough to use a straw or tube to remove the oil that's there and replace it with something else.

I have found the information above VERY interesting but my application is "non-Mini". Roy, if you're still reading this thread I'd appreciate your comments regarding what I'm working on. I've recently switched to an HS4 carb on my 1300cc Triumph (Spitfire). This carb was never stock for the U.S. version of that engine so I was planning on using whatever needle Triumph used on the Toledo which did use the HS4. The "stock" needle for the Toledo was even leaner than the AAK needle mentioned above so I'm surprised to see that a 998 Mini can operate well with the much richer AAA. I'm very tempted now to order an AAA needle and try it on the Triumph. This might allow me to run the jet higher than it is currently set.

#11 m1tch

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Posted 28 October 2009 - 10:25 PM

Im running an AAA needle with a 998 setup, this has LOADS of room for richness increase so I would suggest an AAA needle.

I have just had a play with dashpot oils, the 3 in 1 oil is too thin, so im running on 10W40 and it seems spot on :lol:

#12 bmcecosse

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Posted 28 October 2009 - 10:35 PM

My 1098 A series is in a Minor Traveller - with 940 head /HIF38/3 branch exhaust. The AAA gives good plug colour and the car runs well. The carb doesn't know what engine it's attached to - so I would try the AAA - or - just take a spare needle and lathe it down to AAA size ? Actually - can be done in an electric drill using hand held file and/or emery paper. Problem really is in measuring the tapered needle with a mic! But for a single carb - it doesn't really matter too much - certainly worth a try.

#13 travellering

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Posted 28 October 2009 - 11:54 PM

I'll tag in with practically the same question. I have a 998 A+ High compression with a stage 1 kit(possibly Huddersfield spares kit, as it doesn't give a manufacturer's name on the alloy manifold) and 123 distributor set on F curve.
The traveller is idling too high (1500), and seems to have very flat response from light to nearly full throttle, then all the performance falls in the last little bit of throttle travel. A local LBC mechanic rode in the car with me and said it was behaving as it it was rich at low end and lean at the top.
I believe the needle in right now is an AAU.

#14 dklawson

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Posted 29 October 2009 - 01:01 AM

Thanks Mitch and Roy. I could make my own needle as I've got a couple of lathes at my disposal, however, this is a part I'd rather buy than make. I'll start with the richest of the 3 needles I currently have and eventually order an AAA needle to try.

Alan... I wasn't aware you visited this board. Belated welcome.

#15 travellering

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Posted 29 October 2009 - 01:57 AM

I don't often, but will more often as I run into stuff I can't solve on my own. I made a login when I was first putting the Traveller together, and got lucky and remembered my password. Good to see you here too.




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