
Inner Steering Colum Mk3 Walkthough Please!
#1
Posted 05 November 2009 - 11:38 AM
Year:1980
Just wondering if anyone could do me a small " Change a inner steering colum for dummies " for me? haha, last night I was parking & my steering just went CRUNCHHHHH! now the steering wheel goes around but wheels dont, gave andy at ml a quick call & said its my spline, so just ordered it, gonna change it myself, I have the tools ect, Just need a little help in the process, would really appreciate a quick step guide! appreciate it in advance! Thanks
Joe
#2
Posted 05 November 2009 - 12:55 PM
Take a look at :
http://www.theminifo...howtopic=139701
and :
http://www.theminifo...howtopic=139570
Edited by MINY, 05 November 2009 - 01:06 PM.
#3
Posted 05 November 2009 - 11:38 PM
#4
Posted 05 November 2009 - 11:53 PM
There's probably other threads that refer to the same thing.
I think an extra factor which has added to the problem with my lad Danny's is that he has got superlite wide wheels which are much harder to turn when manouvering and so more strain than usual is applied to the splines.
#5
Posted 06 November 2009 - 01:35 AM

#6
Posted 06 November 2009 - 01:47 AM
#7
Posted 06 November 2009 - 09:19 AM
If you fitted it:
1. Do you remember where you got it from?
2. Do you remember if the instructions that came with it (if there were any) included telling you to adjust the steering rack?
3. Did you adjust the steering rack.?
With regard to how long it takes to fail; there are, as I see it, several governing factors.
But, it will fail quicker if:
1. the column is lowered to its lowest point.
2. there is play between the inner and outer columns due to poor condition of the top and bottom bushes.
3. wide wheels/tyres have been fitted making the steering wheel harder to turn.
4. wheel spacers have been fitted (same effect as 3).
There are probably other reasons and of course a combination of any of them will be worse.
In an effort to explain the problem I've done this quick sketch:

It's very basic and a bit exagerated but I think shows what is meant by missalignment.
When a drop braket is fitted the 2 U bolt clamps must be slackened and the rack must be rotated in them so that the spigot is at the same angle as the new position of the column.
Edited by MINY, 06 November 2009 - 02:00 PM.
#8
Posted 06 November 2009 - 09:47 AM
#9
Posted 06 November 2009 - 11:11 AM
#10
Posted 06 November 2009 - 11:44 AM
#11
Posted 06 November 2009 - 11:48 AM
#12
Posted 06 November 2009 - 11:50 AM
#13
Posted 06 November 2009 - 11:54 AM
Edited by MINY, 06 November 2009 - 11:55 AM.
#14
Posted 08 November 2009 - 08:37 PM
Like the column itself, I believe they vary between years and models but if you phone your order through and jusk ask they'll know which ones to supply.
dude Ive just realised, when I did the drop bracket, I did ajust the rack, undid both bolts either side, passanger & driver side, I did the U bolts up at the bottom nearst the body work & it worked o.k, I only needed to park it close to my house, but I could feel it going, you still recon its the spline?
#15
Posted 08 November 2009 - 09:05 PM
dude Ive just realised, when I did the drop bracket, I did ajust the rack, undid both bolts either side, passanger & driver side, I did the U bolts up at the bottom nearst the body work & it worked o.k, I only needed to park it close to my house, but I could feel it going, you still recon its the spline?
From that dscription it sounds like you are saying that you slackened all four nuts but only re-tightened the bottom two.
Is that right? Did you think that tightening just the bottom ones would somehow adjust the rack downwards?
Sorry but that is not how they work.
The U bolts are separate from the rack, slackening them allows the rack to rotate within them.
The rack will pretty much self adjust to where you set the column but then you must re-tighten all four nuts eaqually.
If you did only re-tighten the bottom nuts then the tension on the bottom of the rack could actually have rotated slightly it upwards rather than downwards.
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