22 replies to this topic

[drummerian]

Hey guys,

So i am upgrading from my 998 engine to a mg metro 1275 i have aquired. This is my shopping list of things to get to do it, tools as well as parts! Hopefully i can get some opinions and advice on parts to use, and make sure i buy everything i need in one bulk lot!

Decision:

rebore (+60)
regrind crank

Tools:
Piston Ring Compressor
Valve spring compressor

Parts:
Fuel Pump - use the one from my 998
Water pump
Carb (i already have some twin hs2s?)
Exhaust/manifold(what bits can i use from my current 998 maniflow exhaust?)
Gaskets
Piston Rings
Big Ends
Main Bearings
Valves - will use old ones in there and lap them to new seats
Valve Springs - new ones needed?
Hardened Valve seats (to convert to unleaded)
Silicon hoses
Oil Pump
valve stem seals


Thanks guys
Ian

Edited by drummerian, 14 December 2009 - 12:26 AM.

[bmcecosse]

New Oil pump - essential!

[Pauly]

You maybe pushed to the limit on that budget. Machining can take a fair chunk out of it if more needs doing.

Costs can spiral, its suprised me how much my engine builds going to cost, its more or less a basic rebuild with a uprated head and cam mostly (which pushes it up), but its going to cost me roughly a £1000!

Paul.

Edited by Pauly, 15 November 2009 - 07:27 PM.

[mini_mad69]

Does it need new valves and valve springs, if there in good condition, I would re use them.

You've got valve lapping paste on your tools list, I would just re-use the valves.

[drummerian]

great replies already cheers guys!

IS it worth re using the valves and springs if i need to put in hardened valve seats?

[steble]

are you sure its a leaded head???

i dropped a mg metro engine into my car and just ran it on unleaded never really thought about checking if it was leaded or not at the time and it was fine lol

[drummerian]

i am sure it is

[ECG317W]

You can find out if it's unleaded or not by measuring the valves. For the MG metro leaded head has 35mm inlet valves and unleaded head has 33mm inlet valves.

That is of course unless someone has already had the head converted to unleaded.

[Asphalt]

There's no need for new valves, unless they are damaged (pitting on sealing area p.e.). Same for springs & guides & everything - especially on such a low budget! Also I wouldn't bother with hardened valve seats (may eat a big chunk of you smal budget!). A bit lead additive every now & then and it's fine.

What I miss on your list are valve stem seals They are too cheap to not replace them.

Also I'd approach the engine in a different way:
Check it and replace what needs replacing (oil pump is mandatory by the way). But not more. This will hekp you saving costs. Or you stock up you budet and make it a complete re-build.

If the bores have no step and are free of scrores I wouldn't even bother pulling the pistons, to be honest...

Fuel pump = same as on the 998. If the old one works - use it.

[drummerian]

There's no need for new valves, unless they are damaged (pitting on sealing area p.e.). Same for springs & guides & everything - especially on such a low budget! Also I wouldn't bother with hardened valve seats (may eat a big chunk of you smal budget!). A bit lead additive every now & then and it's fine.

What I miss on your list are valve stem seals They are too cheap to not replace them.

Also I'd approach the engine in a different way:
Check it and replace what needs replacing (oil pump is mandatory by the way). But not more. This will hekp you saving costs. Or you stock up you budet and make it a complete re-build.

If the bores have no step and are free of scrores I wouldn't even bother pulling the pistons, to be honest...

Fuel pump = same as on the 998. If the old one works - use it.

thanks for a great answer!

i have already pulled the pistons during the strip down unfortunatly!

The reason i am keeping the budget low is because i want this engine to last me til i go for a nissan micra engine transplant, nothing special really!

[cobblers]

A few weeks ago I spent £90 on an oil pump, gearbox and block gaskets, a Payen af460 head gasket and various other bits like a new crank bolt, oilway bungs, a thermostat, engine assembly lube, a load of degreaser and some blueroll.

On top of this, Mains and big end shells were £70 and the crank regrind was £100.
All in all it cost me approx £250 and all I ended up replacing was the bearing shells, oil pump and all the locktabs/gaskets etc.

[drummerian]

ok...maybe my budget could go up to around £350 for a good reliable engine

[drummerian]

A few weeks ago I spent £90 on an oil pump, gearbox and block gaskets, a Payen af460 head gasket and various other bits like a new crank bolt, oilway bungs, a thermostat, engine assembly lube, a load of degreaser and some blueroll.

On top of this, Mains and big end shells were £70 and the crank regrind was £100.
All in all it cost me approx £250 and all I ended up replacing was the bearing shells, oil pump and all the locktabs/gaskets etc.

also, what is blueroll?

[bmcecosse]

Fancy toilet paper! Don't worry about 'unleaded/hardened seats' etc - just grind in the valves as you have planned - and set the exhaust valves to 15 thou clearance - and keep an eye on them.

[drummerian]

list updated.

Basically i need to order a whole load of bits before the minispares discount finishes!

I have just come back from uni and have decided on closed inspection that the block needs a rebore. I am told that +60 costs the same as anything else so its worth doing?

Secondly i have aquired a lightened and blanaced crank that will needa re grind....which bearing shells will i need for this?

I have also been told to just put hardened valve seats in and lap the current valves to suit...do i need a special tool to press the valve seats in?

With the extra power are twin hs2's going to be too constricting? and will i need a X pin diff?

Thanks again!