28 replies to this topic

[Retro_10s]

When you think about it the illuminated switches are all on items that are only suppsed to be on for a short time which is probably why the headlight switch itself is not illuminated.

You've forgotten about the fog lamp switch, which in the right conditions is expected to be illuminated for a complete journey, and is no different from the other switches used on the dash panel...

[Min E]

The fog light is supposed to be used only in fog with less than 50 meters visability; something which is thankfully quite a rare occurence and even then only in isolated areas which after going through the light should be switched off.

Any of the switches could be left on all the time so that's why they've got warning lights.

Edited by MINY, 20 November 2009 - 03:38 PM.

[Retro_10s]

Really don't see the problem - in fact my brake lamp test switch has been on for about 1 month continuously now in the garage as I haven't disconnected the battery from my project.

No heat,.. no blown bulbs.

[daemonchild]

The kit does illuminate the lights all the time, but at half power, so they glow dimly.
Then, when it is switched on it glows brightly.

No, I don't have one fitted. But I've seen one.

[Min E]

Well Retro, that seems to have proven their resistance to heat but I'd still be wary, I would guess that if you took that switch out you'd find it was pretty hot, all incandescent lamps produce more heat energy than light energy.

Edited by MINY, 20 November 2009 - 03:53 PM.

[daemonchild]

Really don't see the problem - in fact my brake lamp test switch has been on for about 1 month continuously now in the garage as I haven't disconnected the battery from my project.

No heat,.. no blown bulbs.

Battery tester eh?

[stormintrooper]

do headlight switches that illuminate like the other switches exist

[L400RAS]

do headlight switches that illuminate like the other switches exist

Yep , i got mine from http://www.merlinmot...oduct_info.html - sorry for poor photo quality, but you can kind of see it working. They were availaible -
"ADU4778 also used on Itals, Land Rover and MGB's. The non illum version was introduced because the illum ones had a habit of burning out. Use a relay if you find one." - this is my thread when i was looking for one http://www.theminifo...eadlight switch

RE: switch illumination, yes the "box of tricks" simply puts 6V into all the bulbs rather than 12, thus they glow at half brightness, until the switch is turned on. Ive had illumation kits fitted to 2 of my MPis, had no problems of heat / blowing bulbs etc.

HTH
Ryan

[Min E]

I'm not an expert and I'd be very happy for a real expert to correct anything or even rubish the whole idea....But.....

For those of you who feel confident to 'have a go' I've come up with a very simple circuit which can be made for about a pound and should light your switches up at about half power when your side lights are on and then full power if you switch any of them on.

This won't give you the buzzer alarm when you open your door but what's new.

The schematic is:



'R' is a power resistor which looks like:



D1-4 are 1N4007 Diodes which look like:



The components are all available from Maplin. Their codes are.
Diodes:- N78CA and cost 18p each.
Resistor:- either H10R if you are lighting 4 switches or H15R if 3 switches (the 10ohm one will do both but 3 lights would light a little brighter when off) Cost 46p.

The five components can be soldered directly together and should be housed in a small plastic box.

Note the polarity of the diodes; they will have a band marked around one end, that end goes to the bulbs, it doesn't matter which way round the resistor goes:

Edited by MINY, 21 November 2009 - 01:54 PM.

[bcjames]

I'm not an expert and I'm happy for an expert to correct anything....But.....

Excellent! I'll try this over the weekend I think! Nice work, thanks.

[Min E]

I'm not an expert and I'm happy for an expert to correct anything....But.....

Excellent! I'll try this over the weekend I think! Nice work, thanks.

Please let us know if your car survives!!!!!

[chappy]

'R' is a power resistor which looks like:

whats the R buy the light switch?


Sam

[Min E]

'R' is a power resistor which looks like:

whats the R buy the light switch?


Sam

Sorry, yes that is a little confusing.... It's R for the red wire. As G/Y is green/yellow etc.

You could alternatively connect to the red/green wire behind the dash.

Edited by MINY, 21 November 2009 - 10:19 PM.

[kangaroomadman]

I'm not an expert and I'd be very happy for a real expert to correct anything or even rubish the whole idea....But.....

For those of you who feel confident to 'have a go' I've come up with a very simple circuit which can be made for about a pound and should light your switches up at about half power when your side lights are on and then full power if you switch any of them on.

This won't give you the buzzer alarm when you open your door but what's new.

The schematic is:



'R' is a power resistor which looks like:



D1-4 are 1N4007 Diodes which look like:



The components are all available from Maplin. Their codes are.
Diodes:- N78CA and cost 18p each.
Resistor:- either H10R if you are lighting 4 switches or H15R if 3 switches (the 10ohm one will do both but 3 lights would light a little brighter when off) Cost 46p.

The five components can be soldered directly together and should be housed in a small plastic box.

Note the polarity of the diodes; they will have a band marked around one end, that end goes to the bulbs, it doesn't matter which way round the resistor goes:

 

Has anyone tried this?