19 replies to this topic

[mccand]

Thanks, guys. My timing light is basic, no advance. Anyway, I think there may be another variable in play here. The gas cap was not sealed properly, so I fixed that and it now is sealed. I am wondering if that is causing fuel starvation. I plan to test this by running it with the cap off & see it I experience the same issues when warmed up. (I did blow thru the breather pipe, which is like 1/4" diameter, and it does seem to be venting properly, so not sure if this has anything to do w/ problem, but worth a shot.

[mccand]

The wires plugs are resistive, so I have ordered the right plugs. I've been looking into carb setting (which I may or may not get into after I set the timing back & remove the gas cap). I am thinking I will need to do something, since putting it back to 22 will only leave me where I started, unable to start in cold. (I'll attack this after my battery charges up again so that I can try to start it)

Anyway, I've attached pictures of my carb. Any idea what type it is & what the nozzles are used for? Should the nozzle that is capped off red be going to the crank case?
Is the crank case hose that big black one with the big blue "T" hose coming out? If not, what is that big black & blue "T"? Both ends seem to be connected to filters or something on the sides of the engine.

Was hoping to adjust mixture per some of the great files I've found here, but my carb does not look like the one described as "HIF"

Thanks much.

Attached Files

•  Carb_2_sml.JPG   154.09K   6 downloads
•  Carb_1_sml.JPG   119.12K   4 downloads

[Ethel]

It looks like there's a fair bit of Metro Turbo still in there. The dizzy is an electronic 65DM4, very likely the original Turbo one - there should be a remote amplifier module somewhere. The carb is also a Turbo one but needs the plumbing sorting.

The dizzy won't be ideal for a non turbo engine (over retarded at higher revs without the boost) but should run ok. The same goes for the carb it may be worth checking what spring and needle are in it. I'd also get a proper filter on it.

[mccand]

ok, I found the problem as to why it runs worse over time-- my alternator is shot! (I killed it when I ran the car with fan belt too tight too long; took me 'till now to figure this out)... so maybe after I get new alternator, retard the timing back to ~16, then cold starting will be good, and so will hot running.

In terms of the carb plumbing sorting, what did you mean? And filter? Would that be in place of that red cap? I read elsewhere that getting vacuum to the crank case is good for preventing oil leaks. True? How would I implement this

Those two big fuel lines go to a pressure regulator (one of them goes thru a fuel filter first, I'm figuring this is the one that fuel comes in through). The regulator has a number of tubes attached to it: One from the gas tank, one to the gas tank (I think), one to the carb (the one with the filter presumably), and one from the carb. Any insight as to what these do is also appreciated.

by the way, I figured out the alternator thing b/c when I got deep into the gas (simulate accelerate), the strobe light would go off, & engine would falter (no spark). Now, as to why the battery would have a harder time generating spark when I was deep into the gas, I don't know...

Cheers!

[dklawson]

Happy Thanksgiving!

Ethel and others will have to help you sort this one. The carb is a later HIF type that I've never worked with and the 65D distributor (and its amplifier) are also items I'm not familiar with.