Front Mpi Cones
#1
Posted 22 November 2009 - 08:54 PM
#2
Posted 22 November 2009 - 10:44 PM
Are the Front Cones the same as the rear?? i think my front ones need replacing as they are bottoming out alot on bumpy roads..
Yes front and rear are the same.
#3
Posted 23 November 2009 - 04:36 PM
As previously stated they are the same, but I would not replace them even with genuine Rover ones! My Clubman Estate which I built from 1999 Sportpack Cooper bits, which had only done 5000 (five thousand) miles, had collapsed so badly after only another 2000 miles that I have resorted to fitting Moulton Smooth-A-rides with adjustable trumpets (all from Minisport, Padiham) These new cones are a fair bit taller (at the front) than even the standard new ones and only JUST fit into the tower. The difference in comfort so far is incredible and at least I can re-adjust periodically as they settle/wear. In over 40 years of Minis, I have never seen such a poor set of OE cones as the ones from the Sportpack. I have put a brief description on my web site about the new set-up:
http://www.stallard-.....0Estate 3.htm
Hope this helps keep your end up!
#4
Posted 23 November 2009 - 04:47 PM
A Genuine set should last a good 10 years.
#5
Posted 23 November 2009 - 05:13 PM
Regards,
#6
Posted 26 November 2009 - 12:10 AM
Best off sticking springs on in my opinion.
PS - I was informed the other day that the last batches of minis made had some known quality issues with the gearboxes but Rover just fitted them anyway, typical!!
Edited by R1minimagic, 26 November 2009 - 12:16 AM.
#7
Posted 26 November 2009 - 12:19 AM
I'm a novice mechanic and planning to fit new ones this weekend.
#8
Posted 26 November 2009 - 09:03 AM
It can be a bit of a pain in the ass sometimes as you basically need to strip all the suspension off to get them out and some of the little retaining bolts in the subframe locating the top arm pivot shaft are a bugger to get to. Manipulating the shaft out past the brake pipe fittings and MPi bottom radiator hose/bracket can be fiddly (easier with 2 people).
Best to allow yourself a good few hours to do it.
Also, make sure you put plenty of grease on the threads and check the tool locknut is tight otherwise it can seperate once the tool is inserted into the cone and it is a real royal pain in the ass to get it out again (as i found out!). Avoid putting your fingers anywhere inside the upper tower region whilst the cone is compressed, if the threads let go it will have your fingers big style!
Once the new ones are on your suspension will be quite high for a few days before it gradually settles back to a reasonable ride height.
Edited by R1minimagic, 26 November 2009 - 09:06 AM.
#9
Posted 26 November 2009 - 10:01 AM
I'm currently waiting for UPS to deliver my cones and compression tool this morning.
Got to fit the new tie bars and replace the bushes on the lower arm first, before i tackle the cones.
Hopefully the cone replacement will correct my negative camber on the front.
#10
Posted 27 November 2009 - 08:52 AM
I'm glad I'm not the only one with a problem with the poor quality offerings from Rover in their later years, even though mine was at a much lower mileage - anyway that's confined to the history books now (remember books?) I've done a few more miles in mine since the Smooth-A-Rides and adjustable trumpets and it's made the world of difference. Think I might change to different frame mounts soon to get rid of the occasional creaks and groans.
Hi Minitrio,
Hope you get your parts soon and manage to get it sorted, please let us all know if you have further problems and how it all turns out. The little bit I posted on my site (mentioned in an earlier reply) might help you through the process.
Hope to see some of you at IMM2010 in Bavaria - it's a wonderful place with great folk (and Beer!)
#11
Posted 27 November 2009 - 09:00 PM
Everything turned up, thankfully and i'm ready to do battle with the suspension tomorrow.
I read your linky and have copied a few points down, to refer to tomorrow. I find Haynes manuals good, but you can't beat the little tricks that other mini mechanics discover. I just wish they did a Bentley manual for the mini, like they do for the VW Beetles and campers. It went into the finest of detail, even down to bolt and spanner size, etc.
#12
Posted 27 November 2009 - 10:31 PM
Glad your stuff arrived and you can get on with it soon, if you need any info about spanner and bolt sizes, just shout and we'll be along to help. Apart from the thread inside the later cones being 14mm, everything you come across on your suspension job will need A/F spanners and sockets, as all of those threads are UNF.
Regards,
#13
Posted 27 November 2009 - 11:07 PM
I'll have the forum up on my laptop, on the garage workbench.
Regards
#14
Posted 28 November 2009 - 06:04 PM
#15
Posted 28 November 2009 - 07:22 PM
I went up in the top of the workshop to check mine today after your post (don't even know why I have kept them?) - yep, mine have increased a bit in height too, but the wear 'ring' is still evident on the front ones. Still wouldn't use them again though, except the rear ones perhaps. They'll only collapse back again in use.
Your R1 engined car sounds interesting - did you do the conversion yourself and are there some pictures somewhere. I'm into bikes myself (have been for over 40 years) Has anyone thought of a 1500, 6 cylinder GoldWing engine in a Mini yet? My 'Wing has the smoothest engine available (and reverse gear too!)
Regards,
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