23 replies to this topic

[Guess-Works.com]

The wings/inner wings and valance do form a sort of 'open' box section which does provide stability to the front end, which is why you need the brace bars when flip-fronting, however, when fitting solid mounts there is obviously less flexibility in the front subframe movement which means more of the lateral stresses are fed through into the bodywork by the mounts, at the rear this is why reinforcement plates are recommended and at the front the loads will 'pull' the valance and hence wings side to side, therefore putting stresses through the panel joints.

[minitiae]

Wow! - Two contrasting views vey well put across by GraemeC & Sherlock. Now I'm in doubt about going solid or staying rubber for the teardrops! The way I'm beginning to think is, that the original Mini was solid and gave no trouble - i.e. cracking/splitting the wing to front panel joints, so unless a Mini is being used for competition this should not be an issue. The teardrops, are really location for the front panel and, it would seem to me, could take only very little of the front end load, (as I said in my last post). The jury is still out but only just! Interesting topic though!

[Teapot]

Well I've also been ploughing though this lot including advice on the front subframe you'll find if you scroll down to the third para of Priorities. Are you a weekend warrior?

Edited by Teapot, 26 November 2009 - 08:35 PM.

[Brams96]

I recently replaced the rubber tower mounts on mine with solid ally ones and it made a big difference. It didn't help that the rubber ones weren't even located properly and were deformed. I have just purchased solid rear mounts and new rubber teardrops so it should be even better as soon as I get them fitted. I also just bought uprated rear subframe bushes and brackets so I'm guessing the handling will be hugely improved when I fit them and the adjustable neg brackets too. Niiiice.

[benb12]

Quick question, my Mini is a standard early 1976 (mark 3) clubman estate, what subframe mounts does it have?

[R1minimagic]

The front panels do provide some rigidity to the subframe when you have the standard rubber mounts all round. If you jack the front up under the tie rod location bracket (i know you are not supposed to but many people do) you will see that the front teardrop mounting bolts move up quite a lot due to the movement of the subframe on the rubbers. When the front teardrop mountings are worn the subframe moves up a lot more when you jack it.

However, if you repeated the same process with solid mountings at the back i reckon the front would hardly move at all.....so the front mounting in this case is not really doing anything apart from holding the panels in place.

Edited by R1minimagic, 28 November 2009 - 01:43 PM.

[minitiae]

In answer to benb12's question, the answer is simply to look under the Mini and see! If they are solid rears the subframe extensions at the back carry on round the bulkhead/ footwell panel and bolt directly to the floor without any intervening rubber mounting. If it's like this at the back it will also be solid at the front panel.

[CarsOrBikes]

I too understand the solid rears will cause excessive road noise, and the fact another reply suggests strengthening the floor here, shows it isn't a good idea to have solid rears. My inner wings cracked with the original teardrops, and if a worn teardrop has seperated rubber, you will see the front of the subframe drop onto the bolt. Clearly the subframe moves. If you fit sold top and rear, and leave the flexible front, you will be adding to the stresses at the floor. You need to fit solid top and front, and leave the rear. Also on the steady bar goes to the front o/s lower of the subframe from the clutch housing. If the front of the frame is better supported, there will be less engine movement. Vibration from poor balance of components, and too low/hard suspension is what causes inner wings to crack more than a support, which ideally shouldn't be shaking about that much.

Make sure your components are balanced, and fit what you like, but the road noise will come from the solid rears.

But they will help reduce wander under braking, and torque/bump steer the more that are fitted. I left mine alone, but will do the top. Have a look at how far the top mounts move with someone else rocking the steering half turn either way!

If fitting them, check the torque on the rack clamps at the same time.

[m1n1]

I had solid bottom rear mounts for 7 years, along with white nylon top mounts (found them on a mini at the breakers) Have now changed back to rubber because the drivers side floor has started to crack/split around one of the bolt holes,, one inch so far. Hope it does not spread anymore...

now am using rubber mounts.. less noise on the motorway, more plesant. Have not noticed any difference in handling.