6 replies to this topic

[captain kirk]

Can anybody help me with this
My spi will start first time ie first thing in the morning, but once it has been started and i turn it off, it will not start again unless I leave it for a while.
Its like there is no fuel getting to the injector, but the fuel pump is priming. I have replaced the lambda sensor, coolant temp sensor, relay pack, fuel filter and the crank case sensor and have now run out of ideas
Anybody else had this problem? i haven't really used the car for 6 months because of this.

[rasputin22]

To me it sounds like the coolant temperature sensor. Are there 2 temperature sensors, one for temp gauge and one for ecu, sorry i'm not completely clued up on injection mini's.

The one you did change what sort of connector did it have. Single connector will be temp gauge and twin connector is ecu, just to be clear.

[captain kirk]

I changed the one with the twin connector.

[Sprocket]

'Twin Connector' is not very specific. Where was the sensor located. The coolant temp sensor is in the bottom of the inlet manifold and is a pig of a job.

This problem has to be either coolant temp or air temp sensor.

Edited by Sprocket, 26 November 2009 - 10:35 PM.

[rasputin22]

Have you tested it?? Even though its new. If you can get a multi meter there are some points you can test. If you don't have one then you should get one as they are an invaluable tool. Can pick them up for as little as a fiver and can test all manner of things.

1) Check insulation of the sensor to the block. If you put a multimeter lead on one of the sensor pins, then the other to touch the block/ground. If its good it should read infinite Ohms.

2) Check the resistance of the sensor itself. Should be around 2000 Ohm when cold and less when warm.

3) Check continuity of the sensor lead to the ecu.

4) Check continuity of the other sensor lead to the ecu, may go to a ground pin.

5) Does it feel slightly gutless in performance with a little less lower revs power, as it could be an air leak, which is ok when cold as the ecu puts more fuel in but once warmer and the mixture is leaner could cause a starting issue. Once the engine is cooled it obviously richens the mixture again. To test spray around manifold with some wd40 and if it picks up, presto a leak.

6) Check condition of vacuum lines around the engine bay (little black hoses).

7) Does it have a vacuum line going from carb to thermostat housing then thermostat housing to dizzy, if so the valve in here can cause problems and can be diverted from carb straight to dizzy.

Do the ecu's need resetting after changing the sensor over?? You could try disconnecting the battery and connect the two leads together, then turn the ignition on and leave for half an hour. Sometimes this can reset it. Or find someone/a garage with a fault reader.

What i have also heard of is rust/dirt in fuel tanks clogging up the fuel line in the tank/sender unit, but this also tends to stall the engine after about 5-10 mins of driving and requires a rest before it can restart as the fuel flows back down the fuel line. But that is mainly on older watercooled golfs. This obviously happens before the fuel filter but never heard of it on a mini.


Can't think of anything else right now, i'm sorry but hope this helps in some way

[captain kirk]

Thank you Sprocket and Rasputin22 for your replys

The coolant temp sensor is the one i replaced, the air temp sensor has not been replaced, so will get a new one and let you know how i get on.

Once again thanks very much for your help.

[Sprocket]

Do the ecu's need resetting after changing the sensor over?? You could try disconnecting the battery and connect the two leads together, then turn the ignition on and leave for half an hour. Sometimes this can reset it. Or find someone/a garage with a fault reader.

Yes, you can reset the adaptive parameters in the ECU, but it is unlikely to be causing the problem and No, you cannot reset the ECU without the diagnostic unit whether the ECU has been unplugged on not for what ever time span