17 replies to this topic

[lrostoke]

Pretty simple this is a thing I did on another site, think I've posted it here as well, but should help

This system in a nutshell replaces the points and condensor on a standard ignition system.

First the kit



The rotor arm is a non standard item but just replaces a standard item
The blue bit is the actual electronics and is held in place using the existing screws on the dizzy backplate





Right now the one down side, depending what type of points you have fitted you may have to modify the backplate

The picture above shows the setup for a sliding points type dizzy, the bit marked red is a peg which the standard points locate against.To fit the system you need to remove this peg.
On non sliding points dizzys the system should just screw straight on, although I can't confirm this.
The bits marked blue above are the standard fixing screw (big) for the points and the screw for the back plate earth cable, these are the two screws used to mount the electronic module



System fitted Although this picture was taken before I tidied the wires, and pulled the black gromet through the side of the dizzy housing

The black wire just connects to the original dizzy spade connection (negative)
The red wire you need to connect to an ignition switched 12v supply, take a feed from the white wire on the fuse box. If your coil is non ballasted then you can connect the red wire direct to the positive on the coil

No need to touch the wiring to the coil
We removed the dizzy for ease of access, but total time from removing, fitting electronic ignition to refitting and firing I would say was 1/2 hr.
After fitting we checked timing and took for a run, working a treat.

Edited by lrostoke, 29 December 2009 - 11:09 PM.

[Twincam]

Pretty simple this is a thing I did on another site, think I've posted it here as well, but should help

This system in a nutshell replaces the points and condensor on a standard ignition system.

First the kit



The rotor arm is a non standard item but just replaces a standard item
The blue bit is the actual electronics and is held in place using the existing screws on the dizzy backplate





Right now the one down side, depending what type of points you have fitted you may have to modify the backplate

The picture above shows the setup for a sliding points type dizzy, the bit marked red is a peg which the standard points locate against.To fit the system you need to remove this peg.
On non sliding points dizzys the system should just screw straight on, although I can't confirm this.
The bits marked blue above are the standard fixing screw (big) for the points and the screw for the back plate earth cable, these are the two screws used to mount the electronic module



System fitted Although this picture was taken before I tidied the wires, and pulled the black gromet through the side of the dizzy housing

The black wire just connects to the original dizzy spade connection (negative)
The red wire you need to connect to an ignition switched 12v supply, take a feed from the white wire on the fuse box. If your coil is non ballasted then you can connect the red wire direct to the positive on the coil

No need to touch the wiring to the coil
We removed the dizzy for ease of access, but total time from removing, fitting electronic ignition to refitting and firing I would say was 1/2 hr.
After fitting we checked timing and took for a run, working a treat.

Thanks for the write up!

I wonder if it'll fit my Consul too (they use the same points/condensor/rotor arm as the Mini's - I get mine from MOSS)?

Edited by Twincam, 29 December 2009 - 11:13 PM.

[matt89racing]

Hi,
this looks great and simple to fit, how easy is it to set the timing on the electric upgrade? Is it something I can do or will I need to get it done at a garage?