so if when my mini has a fulltank of juice, the needle shoots up past the red and into hyperspace, then after about 40 miles itll drop to the full line, stay there for a bit and then drop to near empty when it chooses to, does this mean if i use your solution, itll work as normal? i have tried the sender from my other mini, which know worked fine, but made no difference, thanks for this great guide by the way, sam

How To Fix Your Nippon S' Temp And Fuel Gauge
Started by
stormintrooper
, Jan 20 2010 06:35 PM
23 replies to this topic
#16
Posted 20 January 2010 - 07:45 PM
#17
Posted 21 January 2010 - 08:56 PM
try it, i dont see why people shouldnt anyway as it gives a constant true 10V not anverage 10V from opening and closing contacts
and your welcome taffy i remembered ur havent worked in a while
and your welcome taffy i remembered ur havent worked in a while
#18
Posted 21 January 2010 - 09:04 PM
went to maplin and got the magic chip and a heat sink today, will be doing this mod sunday, thanks for this guide
, its genius!

#19
Posted 21 January 2010 - 09:43 PM
dnt thank just me credit is deserved for DKLawson...though he has never done it with the later clock type he did give me the inspiration and little bits of know how
iv merely tested it with the later clocks and posted it thats all
let me know how u fare once done...and if successfull post in the FAQ topic guessworks posted for me
its in the interior section
if you have any problems feel free to PM me or post to this thread
and do note thaat it is necessary to bend the ring terminals and is probably better to do so before inserting wire
iv merely tested it with the later clocks and posted it thats all

let me know how u fare once done...and if successfull post in the FAQ topic guessworks posted for me

its in the interior section
if you have any problems feel free to PM me or post to this thread
and do note thaat it is necessary to bend the ring terminals and is probably better to do so before inserting wire
#20
Posted 23 April 2011 - 11:02 AM
Sorry to drag up an old thread and I know its not directly related to this, but I'm running an electric oil pressure guage, when nothing electrical is turned on I get myself a proper reading of the oil pressure, when I turn lights, heater etc etc on, my oil pressure reading drops but rises once again when nothing is turned on.
Could I do something similar to this with my pressure guage to even out the voltage to the clock to give me a true oil pressure reading?
Could I do something similar to this with my pressure guage to even out the voltage to the clock to give me a true oil pressure reading?
#21
Posted 23 April 2011 - 11:31 AM
Could be,
Gauges need a voltage regulator to reduce their operating voltage so it's always below what's kicking around in the loom and can stay constant. Most after market gauges are likely to have one built in though,
Gauges need a voltage regulator to reduce their operating voltage so it's always below what's kicking around in the loom and can stay constant. Most after market gauges are likely to have one built in though,
#22
Posted 24 April 2011 - 07:46 AM
Electric oil pressure gauges don't need to be on the stabilised supply for some reason. Check the voltage available on the supply you have used, if you've used undesized cable it could be a volt drop problem.
#23
Posted 04 May 2011 - 12:12 AM
Hi,
I will be attempting this in the next couple of days as my fuel/temp gauges are not working ( i have tried bridging the sender wires).
On a related note i have developed a charging issue recently (when the gauges became faulty) and no longer get the oil/battery light when the ignition is switched on.
Battery and alternator are both less than a year old so would i be right in thinking that this could be in some way affecting the charging system.
Thanks in advance
Matt
I will be attempting this in the next couple of days as my fuel/temp gauges are not working ( i have tried bridging the sender wires).
On a related note i have developed a charging issue recently (when the gauges became faulty) and no longer get the oil/battery light when the ignition is switched on.
Battery and alternator are both less than a year old so would i be right in thinking that this could be in some way affecting the charging system.
Thanks in advance
Matt
#24
Posted 04 May 2011 - 09:10 AM
No, the voltage stabiliser is not related, although it could be that both problems are caused by a problem with the PCB on the clocks. Or the bulb in the charge light could have failed, without that lamp working the alternator cannot switch on and charge.
Please start new threads for new problems rather than using threads as discussion boards. This thread is going into the FAQ but I'm going to have to prune it down a bit first.
Please start new threads for new problems rather than using threads as discussion boards. This thread is going into the FAQ but I'm going to have to prune it down a bit first.
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