does it flood instantly before any use of the car ie at tickover or is it after a drive ie when fluid level is constantly changing in the bowl?
as if its only in a trip out its got to be the float getting stuck in the low position due to wear of the pin or float.
if its happening as soon as the car is started and the system is pressurised id say its a seal leak or incorrect float height.
bar that id say its fuel pressure in general but that shouldnt be the issue tho with your setup.

Carb Float Chamber Flooding
Started by
Boycie
, Jan 26 2010 05:09 PM
20 replies to this topic
#16
Posted 31 January 2010 - 07:36 PM
#17
Posted 31 January 2010 - 07:43 PM
It happens after it's been idling for a minute or so Tarks. It has no effect of the running of the car, it still continues to tick over as smoothly as always.. it just suddenly overflows and drips onto my red-hot manifold!

#18
Posted 31 January 2010 - 07:48 PM
do you have an adjustable float? if so lower the cut off point see if that helps.
failing that take the top off the float bowl with pipe connected blow down the pipe with bowl upside down so its in cut off possition if you can blow it open easily its your float taper needle not sealing
bar that go to a plumbers merchant and buy the washers in material or brass and seal of the float taper body check your float height after all work to ensure its set correctly. is it may be set to high
failing that take the top off the float bowl with pipe connected blow down the pipe with bowl upside down so its in cut off possition if you can blow it open easily its your float taper needle not sealing
bar that go to a plumbers merchant and buy the washers in material or brass and seal of the float taper body check your float height after all work to ensure its set correctly. is it may be set to high
#19
Posted 31 January 2010 - 08:25 PM
No adjustable float.. so I may effectively lower the float shut-off point by adding a washer. When I turn it upside down and blow through the fuel inlet, it shuts off fine! Just in practice, things aren't quite so effective!

#20
Posted 01 February 2010 - 06:06 PM
lol its a mini, in practise all is set to try us haha
have you tried a Holy Sacrafice more commonly known as spilt blood via spanner rash lol. just kidding...
if your fuel pressure has been fine in the past and remains as was and you have no- known float movement issues stopping valve close, a new valve and its sealed correctly bar the bowl not sitting level when fitted im a bit stumped lol.
id go for the washer idea on the taper body nut to lower the level! and to from there at worst you will only creat a fuel starve at high revs issue. which will be obviously due to the float level being too low lol but it may stop the leak at the same time so .........
let us know how you get on lol
have you tried a Holy Sacrafice more commonly known as spilt blood via spanner rash lol. just kidding...
if your fuel pressure has been fine in the past and remains as was and you have no- known float movement issues stopping valve close, a new valve and its sealed correctly bar the bowl not sitting level when fitted im a bit stumped lol.
id go for the washer idea on the taper body nut to lower the level! and to from there at worst you will only creat a fuel starve at high revs issue. which will be obviously due to the float level being too low lol but it may stop the leak at the same time so .........
let us know how you get on lol
Edited by Tarks, 01 February 2010 - 06:08 PM.
#21
Posted 01 February 2010 - 09:15 PM
Ha ha, will do! I've spent the day dismantling the carb and float chamber today, cleaned everything and fitted a new, standard (but ceramic-looking tipped) needle valve. It's all back together and looking shiny and new now, so time will tell.. fingers crossed

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