Engine trouble
#1
Posted 26 October 2005 - 07:35 PM
Basically ive just replaced the choke cable, fitted that, and thats fine.
It starts fine with the choke out, runs fine for the first few minutes with the high idle speed with the choke out..
But then after its heated up, if i leave the choke out, it cuts out and chokes up... thats not the end of the problems though (as i understand thats fairly normal)
The problem arises when putting the choke back in after the car is running warm.
It idles ok, at approx 1k revs, it will drive, but it wont start off very well...
It requires so many revs to start moving without cutting out, tisnt right
Then when driving, it wont pull in the low rev range, and it just doesnt accelerate as it should.
I dont know what i need to adjust?
Also, its been using FAR Too much fuel the last two days (when the problems seem to have started)
Ive put £10 quids worth in and driven only a few miles and its nearly gone?
Any help, advice would be much appreciated, the rolling road session planned isnt til the end of november, and i start my new job soon, need to make sure its running right!
Thanks in advance.
Adam
#2
Posted 26 October 2005 - 07:43 PM
does your engine sound to be running well, could it be miss-firing?
When was the last time you checked your spark plugs?
#3
Posted 26 October 2005 - 07:52 PM
#4
Posted 26 October 2005 - 07:59 PM
a: all your fuel travelling into the sump and
b: a very lean engine which is bad (piston meltingly bad).
You are only supposed to use the choke to start the car, it doesn't need it after a couple of minutes and running with the choke when you don't need to wastes fuel and accelerates engine wear a lot.
Any other problems that could give us a clue?
#5
Posted 26 October 2005 - 08:06 PM
rocker cover cap smells of fuel though and i use loads of fuel?
Sorry for nicking thread
oooh i have changed the spark plugs aswell
#6
Posted 26 October 2005 - 10:59 PM
Oil is fine, only just recently changed, including oil filter.Check you oil, if it's thin and gritty you have a problem with your fuel pump diaphragm and need a new one. This will lead to
a: all your fuel travelling into the sump and
b: a very lean engine which is bad (piston meltingly bad).
You are only supposed to use the choke to start the car, it doesn't need it after a couple of minutes and running with the choke when you don't need to wastes fuel and accelerates engine wear a lot.
Any other problems that could give us a clue?
I understand how the choke works and how long its needed for, but its just not running right without it open very slightly?
No other problems i can think of?
Its been running well when its been going OK, just its having some really bad spells right now.
Sorry for the delayed reply, been watching The Italian Job again (original of course )
#7
Posted 26 October 2005 - 11:44 PM
Has the engine been modified in any way?
Have you changed the carb?
Is the needle in the carb the right one for the engine?
Are there any vacuum leaks? (loose pipes going no where)
Is the Vacuum pipe fitted on the distributer?
Is the ignition advance set correctly?
Has the distributer been changed for another?
Is the idle exhaust CO level greater than or lower than 3%
What colour are the plugs, black and sooty or very clean?
Have you had it rolling road tuned?
#8
Posted 27 October 2005 - 07:34 AM
#9
Posted 27 October 2005 - 11:14 AM
Have you fitted a performance filter and exhaust?Have you fitted a performance filter and exhaust?
Has the engine been modified in any way?
Have you changed the carb?
Is the needle in the carb the right one for the engine?
Are there any vacuum leaks? (loose pipes going no where)
Is the Vacuum pipe fitted on the distributer?
Is the ignition advance set correctly?
Has the distributer been changed for another?
Is the idle exhaust CO level greater than or lower than 3%
What colour are the plugs, black and sooty or very clean?
Have you had it rolling road tuned?
Not personally but theres a stage one kit on it.
Has the engine been modified in any way?
Other than the stage one... nope
Have you changed the carb?
I havent, dont know what standard is, but im told its an HIF 1 3/4"
Is the needle in the carb the right one for the engine?
No idea?
Are there any vacuum leaks? (loose pipes going no where)
Had a quick check, couldnt see anything, replaced one of them no long ago.
Is the Vacuum pipe fitted on the distributer?
Yes, new one.
Is the ignition advance set correctly?
Wouldnt know.
Has the distributer been changed for another?
Dont think so? Has had a new distributer cap and rotor arm.
Is the idle exhaust CO level greater than or lower than 3%
Not a clue.
What colour are the plugs, black and sooty or very clean?
Last time i checked they were as they should be.
Have you had it rolling road tuned?
Nope, im booked to be going on the Northwest meet to the rolling road because i presumed they'd be able to solve my problems.... not sure if the person who fitted the stage one kit had it set up either?
Sorry i cant answer any more?! :nugget:
#10
Posted 27 October 2005 - 11:15 AM
Chris, ive never taken a car carb apart, wouldnt know where to start?!Id say bent jet. Take a photo of your carb jet. I may have a spare.
#11
Posted 27 October 2005 - 11:27 AM
#12
Posted 27 October 2005 - 11:28 AM
What engine have you got AJ?
Mine is a metro engine. The only thing is has different to standard is a repalcement K&N panle filter.
Once yours is warm doe sit run ok because mine seems a bit slow and a bit held back almost of you know what i mean.
#13
Posted 27 October 2005 - 12:07 PM
Sounds the same once warm.... although sometimes, with the choke out slightly it does run better.
#14
Posted 27 October 2005 - 12:20 PM
They easy to fit a new one?
#15
Posted 27 October 2005 - 07:37 PM
You realy need to check that the needle is some where near, I think the stage one kit is an 'AAA' needle. If it still has the original needle in the carb, then order up an AAA before you go to the rolling road session.( I ordered one from minisport and it took weeks, but that was years ago, phone them up and see if they got any and will have on the day) That way when its on the rollers the operator has a much better chance of getting it fueled right If its the same bloke from a few years back, then he does a top job
To find out which needle you have, remove the three screws from the base of the dashpot and carefully lift the whole thing off remembering that the needle protrudes from the bottom and is easily bent. The needle is fixed into the piston by a flat head screw, which locks the retaining coller at the base of the needle. Loosen this screw just a couple of turns(theres no need to remove it) and withdraw the needle, spring and coller. DO NOT LOOSE THE SPRING. The needle spec is written on the part of the needle normaly hidden by the retaining collar, usualy three letters but on rare instances two. Re assemble making sure the retaining collar is flush with the piston. Five miniut job :cheese:
Now if there is still an aluminium identification tag on the carb, usualy fixed by one of the dashpot screws you removed earlier, you can use this number on here http://www.burlen.co.uk to find out what needle was fitted to the carb at the factory when it was used in production and what car it was used on, listing all the parts as spares or a complete new item.
This may also help select the correct needle http://www.winsu.co.uk/
Other than this there is an air leak
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users