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Lead Loading Of Rear Bumper


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#1 strugglingstudent

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Posted 15 February 2010 - 02:04 PM

Once again as the topic suggests after much deliberation ive decided to go for lead loading when i de-bumper the rear. Ive got my dad to help me but what we are really looking for is a set of instructions on how to go about it. preferably these instructions would start from

1.take off the bumper
~
then finish by painting covering all the steps in between.

Preferably id like step by step instructions from a pro, or anyone that has done it themselves as opposed to third hand info but im open to any info i can get.

thanks guys

p.s i should also mention i have like a basic idea from a site on the net. but this is a very broad overview so please feel free to be as specific as possible.

Edited by strugglingstudent, 15 February 2010 - 02:13 PM.


#2 strugglingstudent

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Posted 16 February 2010 - 01:33 PM

does anyone on here know someone i could pm for answers?

#3 nomininolife

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Posted 16 February 2010 - 01:36 PM

Try this




Regards

David

#4 strugglingstudent

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Posted 16 February 2010 - 01:43 PM

Try this




Regards

David

thanks i watched that yesterday, also watched wild bill who is about 90 doing some lead loading, would i still need to plate and weld the bumper from the rear before lead loading?

#5 nomininolife

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Posted 16 February 2010 - 02:10 PM

Basically you use lead as you would use filler, for smoothing imperfections and building contours.



Regards


David

#6 strugglingstudent

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Posted 16 February 2010 - 02:21 PM

Basically you use lead as you would use filler, for smoothing imperfections and building contours.



Regards


David


ok thanks very much for your help, tackle it this weekend then :lol:

#7 jameswhiles

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Posted 16 February 2010 - 08:41 PM

And make sure that where the lead is going, it is spotlessly clean else it will not stick. You don't want the lead runny either - get it so its just starting to melt (quite thick)

Hope this helps!

#8 samsfern

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Posted 16 February 2010 - 08:44 PM

you should weld the 3 panels together, after the bumper lip has been removed, its part of the bootfloor, which the subbie bolts to.

#9 In-a-mini

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Posted 16 February 2010 - 09:07 PM

i lead load where required it works really well on areas that flex as it doesn't crack as easy as normal filler. weld up the rear as stated by others once finished where you want to lead wire brush the hell out of it ones spotlessly clean tin the area there are two methods commonly used either one is ok depends on what kit you have. once tinned its a case of getting the panel heated and lead in without it all running on to the floor lol. it takes some practice especially on a surface that vertical or upside down. what you are after is getting the lead in a soft cheese sort of state then with a clean paddle with tallow on to push it where you want it. always wear gloves and a mask when your grinding/filling or sanding it.

#10 strugglingstudent

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Posted 16 February 2010 - 10:25 PM

i lead load where required it works really well on areas that flex as it doesn't crack as easy as normal filler. weld up the rear as stated by others once finished where you want to lead wire brush the hell out of it ones spotlessly clean tin the area there are two methods commonly used either one is ok depends on what kit you have. once tinned its a case of getting the panel heated and lead in without it all running on to the floor lol. it takes some practice especially on a surface that vertical or upside down. what you are after is getting the lead in a soft cheese sort of state then with a clean paddle with tallow on to push it where you want it. always wear gloves and a mask when your grinding/filling or sanding it.


Would I weld up the rear from the inside? as for working the lead im aware that it needs to be super clean, been watching alot on line for tips and stuff, my dad will be doing the leading, ill just be getting the finish once the leading has been done, could I use a wire brush attachment on a drill instead of a wire brush? the only other question I have is what sort of torch do you use for working the lead on the panels? Im worried that a standard oxy torch could warp the panels? or is it a case of if done right, and the heat isnt applied directly to the panel for too long it will be fine?

Really appreciate the help you have given so far :D its gonna be a fun weekend

#11 jameswhiles

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Posted 16 February 2010 - 11:11 PM

We just use a normal blow torch, with a bigger jet if using thick lead




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